Looks like? I am going to be taking my rudder off next spring to tighten up some play in the rudder and to repack the stuffing box which is leaking now even though I have tightened it several times. The large aluminum disk that’s attached to the rudder tube that is part of the pedestal steering has not been off sense the boat was manufactured in 1981. Its coming off this spring one way or the other. (this should be fun) This disk sets just above the stuffing box making it impossible to repack. Anyway after hearing all the talk about rudders failing I guess if I’m going to all this trouble I may as well strip the glass off the rudder and take a look at that too. My rudder has done what is very common to a lot of rudders I see in the yards in Maine, that is water gets into the rudder tube and then freezes. When this happens it expands the rudder cracking the glass. When I got my boat it had been leaking what looked a lot like rust out of one of these cracks. If anyone is interested I’ll take pictures of what I find.
Anybody know what the core of an 1981 H27 rudder
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Looks like? I am going to be taking my rudder off next spring to tighten up some play in the rudder and to repack the stuffing box which is leaking now even though I have tightened it several times. The large aluminum disk that’s attached to the rudder tube that is part of the pedestal steering has not been off sense the boat was manufactured in 1981. Its coming off this spring one way or the other. (this should be fun) This disk sets just above the stuffing box making it impossible to repack. Anyway after hearing all the talk about rudders failing I guess if I’m going to all this trouble I may as well strip the glass off the rudder and take a look at that too. My rudder has done what is very common to a lot of rudders I see in the yards in Maine, that is water gets into the rudder tube and then freezes. When this happens it expands the rudder cracking the glass. When I got my boat it had been leaking what looked a lot like rust out of one of these cracks. If anyone is interested I’ll take pictures of what I find.
Rudder leak
I have an 84 H27 with a leak at the rudder post also. Mine only leaks when healed to over 15 degrees. I have tightened everything but it still leaks. Mine is coming out this summer. I'd be interested in any knowledge you gain when you redo yours.
I have an 84 H27 with a leak at the rudder post also. Mine only leaks when healed to over 15 degrees. I have tightened everything but it still leaks. Mine is coming out this summer. I'd be interested in any knowledge you gain when you redo yours.
Rudder leak
I have an 84 H27 with a leak at the rudder post also. Mine only leaks when healed to over 15 degrees. I have tightened everything but it still leaks. Mine is coming out this summer. I'd be interested in any knowledge you gain when you redo yours.
I have an 84 H27 with a leak at the rudder post also. Mine only leaks when healed to over 15 degrees. I have tightened everything but it still leaks. Mine is coming out this summer. I'd be interested in any knowledge you gain when you redo yours.
Archives.
You fellows should be able to find a lot of H27 rudder info in the archives. It has been discussed many times. There was also a photo forum article, years ago, that illustrated the internals of the rudder. Or you could call Foss Foam, the manufacturers. (www.newrudders.com) The rudder is a high density foam with a skin. Water typically gets into the rudder where the stainless tube(rudder stock) goes into the glass/foam. If salt water this can corrode the weld between the stock and the large stainless plate that extends into the rudder body. I have seen the rudder opened to expose this. It can be rebuilt. Getting the "disk"(radial wheel) off and getting the boat high enough(or digging a big hole) are the challenges for getting it out. The Rainbow Chaser(H37C) site has a discussion of removing the rudder in the water. But the H27 stock entry may be below the waterline. On the H37C it is slightly above. The West System booklets have a chapter on keel and rudder repair. I think it discusses how to build up the rudder bearing. Good luck.
You fellows should be able to find a lot of H27 rudder info in the archives. It has been discussed many times. There was also a photo forum article, years ago, that illustrated the internals of the rudder. Or you could call Foss Foam, the manufacturers. (www.newrudders.com) The rudder is a high density foam with a skin. Water typically gets into the rudder where the stainless tube(rudder stock) goes into the glass/foam. If salt water this can corrode the weld between the stock and the large stainless plate that extends into the rudder body. I have seen the rudder opened to expose this. It can be rebuilt. Getting the "disk"(radial wheel) off and getting the boat high enough(or digging a big hole) are the challenges for getting it out. The Rainbow Chaser(H37C) site has a discussion of removing the rudder in the water. But the H27 stock entry may be below the waterline. On the H37C it is slightly above. The West System booklets have a chapter on keel and rudder repair. I think it discusses how to build up the rudder bearing. Good luck.
Archives.
You fellows should be able to find a lot of H27 rudder info in the archives. It has been discussed many times. There was also a photo forum article, years ago, that illustrated the internals of the rudder. Or you could call Foss Foam, the manufacturers. (www.newrudders.com) The rudder is a high density foam with a skin. Water typically gets into the rudder where the stainless tube(rudder stock) goes into the glass/foam. If salt water this can corrode the weld between the stock and the large stainless plate that extends into the rudder body. I have seen the rudder opened to expose this. It can be rebuilt. Getting the "disk"(radial wheel) off and getting the boat high enough(or digging a big hole) are the challenges for getting it out. The Rainbow Chaser(H37C) site has a discussion of removing the rudder in the water. But the H27 stock entry may be below the waterline. On the H37C it is slightly above. The West System booklets have a chapter on keel and rudder repair. I think it discusses how to build up the rudder bearing. Good luck.
You fellows should be able to find a lot of H27 rudder info in the archives. It has been discussed many times. There was also a photo forum article, years ago, that illustrated the internals of the rudder. Or you could call Foss Foam, the manufacturers. (www.newrudders.com) The rudder is a high density foam with a skin. Water typically gets into the rudder where the stainless tube(rudder stock) goes into the glass/foam. If salt water this can corrode the weld between the stock and the large stainless plate that extends into the rudder body. I have seen the rudder opened to expose this. It can be rebuilt. Getting the "disk"(radial wheel) off and getting the boat high enough(or digging a big hole) are the challenges for getting it out. The Rainbow Chaser(H37C) site has a discussion of removing the rudder in the water. But the H27 stock entry may be below the waterline. On the H37C it is slightly above. The West System booklets have a chapter on keel and rudder repair. I think it discusses how to build up the rudder bearing. Good luck.
It's Foam
Your original rudder unless mistaken, mine was on a 30, by foss foam, who makes their rudders of highly dense foam encapsulated in fiberglass. I just got a replacement from them and visited their place of business. Good people. If you cut it apart be sure to put holes in bottom for water to drain out. However, I can not imaginge much water if any can penetrate that foam. I recently cut a section of mine apart and found it to be very solid foam, even in 1981. Best of luck.
Your original rudder unless mistaken, mine was on a 30, by foss foam, who makes their rudders of highly dense foam encapsulated in fiberglass. I just got a replacement from them and visited their place of business. Good people. If you cut it apart be sure to put holes in bottom for water to drain out. However, I can not imaginge much water if any can penetrate that foam. I recently cut a section of mine apart and found it to be very solid foam, even in 1981. Best of luck.
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