Any suggestions on this( front of rudder

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Sep 20, 2011
135
hunter 30 md
I need some assistance on how to tackle this and what to use.
I'm thinking some marine -tex to fill entire hole over fill it actually, then glass it over and then smooth sand it down to shape.
I need all suggestions because it's my reason for staying land locked right now, fix this and SAIL!!!!!
 
Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
A Hunter 30 has a fully skegged rudder, right? And that's your skeg, right?

If those two assertions are correct, that thing holds your rudder on and in place. Its under enormous strain when sailing. And it looks broken structurally under the skin. If it were my boat I wouldn't sail it until I've had it professional looked at. ;^\
 
Jun 10, 2004
135
Hunter 30_74-83 Shelburne
I think you are due for a new skeg. I cracked into some rocks with my 76 hunter 30 about 5 years ago. It completely tore off the bottom of the skew. Steering was poor but the rudder stayed in place. I ordered a new one from Hunter, about $500 if I remember, took about 6 weeks. I actually made a temporary repair on mine and sailed (slowly) the rest of the season the year it happened.
 
Jun 9, 2008
1,801
- -- -Bayfield
You need to grind out the crack and let it dry and then fiberglass it up with cloth, mat, etc. Not Marine Tex bandage. You have to add structure to this repair and so need to do a lamination lay up of cloth/mat material and resin.
 
Jun 5, 2010
1,123
Hunter 25 Burlington NJ
Skeg repair

How are the bolts, inside? Look at those first. If they are not compromised (which was likely in J Hunter's case), then the rest is essentially cosmetic. Dig some of it out, fill with microfibers and fair it over.

I just did this repair to a Raider 33 damaged in Storm Sandy (a great killer of rudder skegs, apparently). If you 'glass it over, hard, or fill it with anything that doesn't give, it's going to crack eventually anyway. The skeg is really held on by the bolts and the 5200. Anything faired over that will crack, same as the joint between the lead and the hull. The main issue is that the skeg is properly fastened to the boat-- and from what I have seen it takes a great deal to compromise that. Most of what we see as damage is to the skin and fairing, or to the (rather flimsy, from the factory) layup of the skeg itself, which is merely 'glass work.

This looks like it has been chipped up and faired-over before; and what has cracked out has been the filler. If that's the case you can fix it and go sailing within the week. :)
 
Sep 20, 2011
135
hunter 30 md
Great point jc!!!!
That's exactly what happened I was cleaning off gunk and sander caught and pulled plug right out! It was a hard something( marine tex maybe) so tell me what I should fill it with and how to cover it up and I will be sailing next week
 
Jun 5, 2010
1,123
Hunter 25 Burlington NJ
H30 skeg repair

Flash-sand the whole area around the seam. You're not grinding, so go quickly, lightly, with a light disc. I use little 3" ones at 24 grit on a small air grinder (Harbor Freight: $19.99. Read my review of it there). Leave no bottom paint, flaking gelcoat, filler, 'glass or anything that looks rusty, sticky, stained, etc.

Wash in solvent. Lay up new 'glass over the affected area, even if it's not smooth and even-- just roll it out so you have no air voids and have good adhesion.

Once this is cured, flash-grind the edges to get them more of less flush with the surrounding surfaces. If you are still well low, short of where it should be, lay up more 'glass.

Once you are close, make up a putty using fiberglass resin and milled fibers (which are chopped-up fiberglass material). This won't sand easily, so trowel it on smoothly and with care. Then fair this with your sander again, getting it as fair as you can while reducing paper grit (increasing numbers).

This is exactly what I just did on the damaged Raider 33. I still owe it a little more fairing before the new application of Interprotect; but it's pretty close now.

I am presuming that you have checked the bolt ends inside the boat and found them solid, and that the skeg isn't loose against the hull but merely a little chipped-up and needing filler.

JC2
 
Jun 10, 2004
135
Hunter 30_74-83 Shelburne
Sorry I was not checking back. John C's advice is of course very sound. My skeg totally broke off at the bottom. I cut some marine plywood strips that overlapped up the remaining part of the skeg, with a flat small oval shaped piece at the bottom with a hole drilled in it for a gudgeon and I held it all together with some stainless hardware. It held up the rudder and got me steerage back, but it was a considerable drag.

I got the new one because I couldn't see myself rebuilding the whole bottom 18" of the skeg very easily ( I'm not a very experienced fiber glass repairer) but thinking about the difficulty I had getting the bolts loose at the top, I think I'd have to now agree that if you can do a competent repair on that small hole it might be the least work and expense.
 
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