Here is Some Further Tips Gleaned From My Archives
Jon, I have included some tips writtn by Michael Burwell, saved from the Sailnet Oday list server. Hope it helps: The Rubrail Replacement "It is joined with screws every eight inches or so so remove them and save. Put a dab of 5200 poly sealant over each hole cause you will not be able to find the same holes to put them back in." Caldwell and I just replaced the entire rubrail on his O-25. Here are a few tips to supplement Ben's good advice. (We can't take credit for all of this as our painter contributed a lot of good tips as we did all we could to make the job easier for him.....and cheaper for Caldwell). 1) Have a supply of extra screws on hand before you start. Some of the old ones will be bent or have the recesses for the bit stripped out. 2) If possible have two drill motors handy.....one with the screwdriver bit and one with the proper drill bit. 3) THIS IS A BIG ONE! Before starting the replacement, take a small square or level and draw a vertical line from each of the old holes with a pencil. Make the line long enough to show above the upper edge of the rubrail base molding. Then, when you start to install the new piece just push the base into position and drill a small hole through the center (in the groove) in alignment with the pencil marks. I'm guessing out of 130 or 140 screws we missed the old holes twice. 4) Be sure to put a generous dollop of 5200 in and on top of each hole before you put the base molding in place. 5) Only use the hair dryer or heat gun on the back of the molding. Getting the front too warm will deform it when you go around the corners (or the bow) making installation of the black insert more difficult. 6) When working with a longer section, place the coil on deck and loop it around a stanchion or winch or stern rail. This will keep it out of your way AND keep it from scratching the hull. 7) Finally, the insert will shrink over time. If you get into this job at all, consider replacing the entire insert. Start it on the transom about 1 or 1.5 feet from the base molding butt joint. Then when you are all finished you can buy a little cover plate to cover the butt joint of the insert which has a hole on each side for a screw to tack down the end and hide any shrinkage. For what it's worth, Mike Burwell Bradenton, FL http://www.towerpromotions.com http://www.knotink.com
