OK....I'm finally ready to haul my 84 H31 to unstep mast to fix leak. I don't want any surprises. I plan to use either Dow 795 sealant or 3M 4200 between the tabernacle and deck, and to seal the wire conduit. Not real sure how to "loop" the wires to prevent water from coming thru conduit. Why loop the wires instead of just filling the conduit with sealant? Plan to replace bulbs and of course, check light fixtures, etc. Not sure I'll ever want spinniker rigging, but perhaps a masthead block if I should want one in the future? Probably will go ahead and install a deck light on the spreaders. Anything else? Any ideas appreciated......Gary
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OK....I'm finally ready to haul my 84 H31 to unstep mast to fix leak. I don't want any surprises. I plan to use either Dow 795 sealant or 3M 4200 between the tabernacle and deck, and to seal the wire conduit. Not real sure how to "loop" the wires to prevent water from coming thru conduit. Why loop the wires instead of just filling the conduit with sealant? Plan to replace bulbs and of course, check light fixtures, etc. Not sure I'll ever want spinniker rigging, but perhaps a masthead block if I should want one in the future? Probably will go ahead and install a deck light on the spreaders. Anything else? Any ideas appreciated......Gary
An inspection and wire access port.
Get 'em from rigrite.com. See it installed on my web site. Photos #88 and 100. Have fun. This is a very worthwhile job on these boats.
Get 'em from rigrite.com. See it installed on my web site. Photos #88 and 100. Have fun. This is a very worthwhile job on these boats.
An inspection and wire access port.
Get 'em from rigrite.com. See it installed on my web site. Photos #88 and 100. Have fun. This is a very worthwhile job on these boats.
Get 'em from rigrite.com. See it installed on my web site. Photos #88 and 100. Have fun. This is a very worthwhile job on these boats.
new sheaves
Gary: Plan on replacing all of the masthead sheaves. You can purchase them from Rig-rite if you do not have another source. There are some nylon rollers up there too. You really need to get the rig on the ground so you get all the parts that you may need.
Gary: Plan on replacing all of the masthead sheaves. You can purchase them from Rig-rite if you do not have another source. There are some nylon rollers up there too. You really need to get the rig on the ground so you get all the parts that you may need.
new sheaves
Gary: Plan on replacing all of the masthead sheaves. You can purchase them from Rig-rite if you do not have another source. There are some nylon rollers up there too. You really need to get the rig on the ground so you get all the parts that you may need.
Gary: Plan on replacing all of the masthead sheaves. You can purchase them from Rig-rite if you do not have another source. There are some nylon rollers up there too. You really need to get the rig on the ground so you get all the parts that you may need.
Gary, a few tips...
1. The conduit should extend above the coach roof by at least three to four inches. 2. Seal the outside of the conduit to the coach roof. I would not put sealant inside the conduit. 3. Your mast step plate should have a drain hole to allow rain water to weep out rather than pool up and overflow into the conduit. 4. Rebed the step plate and make sure the weep hole remains clear. Ours leaked until I did the above three years ago. It has remained dry ever since. While our mast was down I also did the following: 1. Cleaned and sprayed dry lube on the mast track. 2. Rewrapped spreader boots. 3. Replaced all light bulbs and cleaned all electrical fixture contact points. Terry
1. The conduit should extend above the coach roof by at least three to four inches. 2. Seal the outside of the conduit to the coach roof. I would not put sealant inside the conduit. 3. Your mast step plate should have a drain hole to allow rain water to weep out rather than pool up and overflow into the conduit. 4. Rebed the step plate and make sure the weep hole remains clear. Ours leaked until I did the above three years ago. It has remained dry ever since. While our mast was down I also did the following: 1. Cleaned and sprayed dry lube on the mast track. 2. Rewrapped spreader boots. 3. Replaced all light bulbs and cleaned all electrical fixture contact points. Terry
Gary, a few tips...
1. The conduit should extend above the coach roof by at least three to four inches. 2. Seal the outside of the conduit to the coach roof. I would not put sealant inside the conduit. 3. Your mast step plate should have a drain hole to allow rain water to weep out rather than pool up and overflow into the conduit. 4. Rebed the step plate and make sure the weep hole remains clear. Ours leaked until I did the above three years ago. It has remained dry ever since. While our mast was down I also did the following: 1. Cleaned and sprayed dry lube on the mast track. 2. Rewrapped spreader boots. 3. Replaced all light bulbs and cleaned all electrical fixture contact points. Terry
1. The conduit should extend above the coach roof by at least three to four inches. 2. Seal the outside of the conduit to the coach roof. I would not put sealant inside the conduit. 3. Your mast step plate should have a drain hole to allow rain water to weep out rather than pool up and overflow into the conduit. 4. Rebed the step plate and make sure the weep hole remains clear. Ours leaked until I did the above three years ago. It has remained dry ever since. While our mast was down I also did the following: 1. Cleaned and sprayed dry lube on the mast track. 2. Rewrapped spreader boots. 3. Replaced all light bulbs and cleaned all electrical fixture contact points. Terry
I planed on a tall conduit like Terry advised.
Stuck it in the hole, pushed trough the wire and gloated. Then I measured. That six inch conduit had to be reduced to 3/4"! It's right under the exit blocks. I used lots of goop. Oh well.
Stuck it in the hole, pushed trough the wire and gloated. Then I measured. That six inch conduit had to be reduced to 3/4"! It's right under the exit blocks. I used lots of goop. Oh well.
I planed on a tall conduit like Terry advised.
Stuck it in the hole, pushed trough the wire and gloated. Then I measured. That six inch conduit had to be reduced to 3/4"! It's right under the exit blocks. I used lots of goop. Oh well.
Stuck it in the hole, pushed trough the wire and gloated. Then I measured. That six inch conduit had to be reduced to 3/4"! It's right under the exit blocks. I used lots of goop. Oh well.
Mast Wiring
If you have any thoughts of wiring updates (and I would if it's original) I suggest you leave the wires long and make a connection buss bar inside the boat. Most mast electrical problems are associated with the rust connector trapped inside the mast base. The mast is not wired for spreader lights from the factory. I don't think any original wire meets todays inductry standards (it's all copper and prone to corrode)
If you have any thoughts of wiring updates (and I would if it's original) I suggest you leave the wires long and make a connection buss bar inside the boat. Most mast electrical problems are associated with the rust connector trapped inside the mast base. The mast is not wired for spreader lights from the factory. I don't think any original wire meets todays inductry standards (it's all copper and prone to corrode)
Mast Wiring
If you have any thoughts of wiring updates (and I would if it's original) I suggest you leave the wires long and make a connection buss bar inside the boat. Most mast electrical problems are associated with the rust connector trapped inside the mast base. The mast is not wired for spreader lights from the factory. I don't think any original wire meets todays inductry standards (it's all copper and prone to corrode)
If you have any thoughts of wiring updates (and I would if it's original) I suggest you leave the wires long and make a connection buss bar inside the boat. Most mast electrical problems are associated with the rust connector trapped inside the mast base. The mast is not wired for spreader lights from the factory. I don't think any original wire meets todays inductry standards (it's all copper and prone to corrode)
Just did mine this year also
Just a few notes: 1. There are plugs under the mast. So when the mast is lifted it has to be held suspended for a few seconds while the plugs are un-done. My rigger cut the wires below decks because he didn't know that the plugs where there. I ended up running the new wires below decks to a bus bar that i installed under the forward salon table seat next to the base of the mast. 2. When I did mine I put a new 1" pipe in the hole and made it stick above deck about 6". I used 5200 to seal it to the deck around the outside of the tube. 3. I replaced the light fixtures and all wiring in the mast. I replaced the running light with one with a deck lite on the bottom instead of spreader lights. 4. I replaced both halyards and the topping lift. 5. Have a rigger inspect all your standing rigging for wear and cracks or do it yourself. 6. Check your mast pre-bend. This can only be properly checked and adjusted with the mast down. 7. Replace the grounding wire from the mast step to the keel. I upgraded 1 size in gauge. Do you plan to replace the compression post? Jim
Just a few notes: 1. There are plugs under the mast. So when the mast is lifted it has to be held suspended for a few seconds while the plugs are un-done. My rigger cut the wires below decks because he didn't know that the plugs where there. I ended up running the new wires below decks to a bus bar that i installed under the forward salon table seat next to the base of the mast. 2. When I did mine I put a new 1" pipe in the hole and made it stick above deck about 6". I used 5200 to seal it to the deck around the outside of the tube. 3. I replaced the light fixtures and all wiring in the mast. I replaced the running light with one with a deck lite on the bottom instead of spreader lights. 4. I replaced both halyards and the topping lift. 5. Have a rigger inspect all your standing rigging for wear and cracks or do it yourself. 6. Check your mast pre-bend. This can only be properly checked and adjusted with the mast down. 7. Replace the grounding wire from the mast step to the keel. I upgraded 1 size in gauge. Do you plan to replace the compression post? Jim
Take a tip from newer Hunters
I had the same problem with my '95 336. I looked at the newer Hunters and noticed that the wiring comes out the base of the mast into a seperate deck mounted housing on the cabin top. I pulled the mast, notched it out at the base, then ran the wiring ouside the bottom of the mast and into that separate housing. I then capped the old hole with a PVC cap from the hardware store. It was a very simple job, but it made me a little nervous drilling a new hole in my cabin top. The existing wiring was long enough to still make the conections in the roof of the saloon. 2 years later and all was still dry (I sold the boat this fall). By doing it this way, if it ever leaks again, all that needs to be done is to reseat the housing without having to pull the mast.
I had the same problem with my '95 336. I looked at the newer Hunters and noticed that the wiring comes out the base of the mast into a seperate deck mounted housing on the cabin top. I pulled the mast, notched it out at the base, then ran the wiring ouside the bottom of the mast and into that separate housing. I then capped the old hole with a PVC cap from the hardware store. It was a very simple job, but it made me a little nervous drilling a new hole in my cabin top. The existing wiring was long enough to still make the conections in the roof of the saloon. 2 years later and all was still dry (I sold the boat this fall). By doing it this way, if it ever leaks again, all that needs to be done is to reseat the housing without having to pull the mast.
Wow! Great ideas! Hey Brian.....
What do think of Brian's idea? I love it. Just seal up the old hole permanently, and slip wires out mast base into an ACCESSIBLE conduit. Apparently, Hunter realizes this is a good remedy to the leaking mast problem. Anxious to hear your opinions on this. Brian.....what did you use for the deck mounted housing that the wires run through? Thanks for all the tips....I plan to do all of them, i.e., replace shieves, wires, bus bar, etc. THANKS!!!
What do think of Brian's idea? I love it. Just seal up the old hole permanently, and slip wires out mast base into an ACCESSIBLE conduit. Apparently, Hunter realizes this is a good remedy to the leaking mast problem. Anxious to hear your opinions on this. Brian.....what did you use for the deck mounted housing that the wires run through? Thanks for all the tips....I plan to do all of them, i.e., replace shieves, wires, bus bar, etc. THANKS!!!
Buy it through Hunter
I purchased the mounting through my Hunter dealer. I believe it is made by Selden though if you want to try and buy it directly.
I purchased the mounting through my Hunter dealer. I believe it is made by Selden though if you want to try and buy it directly.
Cable Port
Its called a cable port and can be viewed at http://www.liljas-bilin.se/marin3.html. we put one on our 336 after seeing Brian's. It was purchased from Selden Mast, talk to Lawton Connelly at 843 760 6278.
Its called a cable port and can be viewed at http://www.liljas-bilin.se/marin3.html. we put one on our 336 after seeing Brian's. It was purchased from Selden Mast, talk to Lawton Connelly at 843 760 6278.
What about inside the cabin?
Thanks for the link. That's exactly what I need. Surely you don't want the wires inside the cabin exposed, so did you make some type of chase to get them back in the compression post? I'll call Hunter tomorrow to order. Thanks again.....Gary
Thanks for the link. That's exactly what I need. Surely you don't want the wires inside the cabin exposed, so did you make some type of chase to get them back in the compression post? I'll call Hunter tomorrow to order. Thanks again.....Gary
The 336 has an access area just forward
of the compression post that I was able to fish the wires through. Keep in mind that the 336 is almost identical to the 340 and I just copied what Hunter had done with the 340.
of the compression post that I was able to fish the wires through. Keep in mind that the 336 is almost identical to the 340 and I just copied what Hunter had done with the 340.
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