So here is what I do, you might need to change some of the antifreeze temps due to your location.
Water Heater - I installed a bypass like this package (
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-35983-Q...51417&sr=8-2&keywords=water+heater+bypass+kit). To winterize the water heater, I turn on the bypass, open the drain line and the pressure relieve valve (very important to remember this). I just let the water drain into the bilge because it does give a good fresh water flush. I don't put antifreeze in the water heater.
Fresh Water System - I installed a "T" with a ball valve on the low point of the water line from the tank under the forward birth to the water pump (in the main bilge). I open the valve and let the tank drain into the bilge, add some bilge cleaner and clean the bilge with the water from the tank. I then installed a kit like this one (
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-36543-Pump-Converter-Winterizing/dp/B0006JJ588/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_img_y) on the influent side of the fresh water pump. I connect the hose, turn the valve and put the end of the hose into a bottle of antifreeze. I then just allow the pump to pump the antifreeze to each faucet. I do the hot water side of the transom shower first, this cuts down on the amount of antifreeze used. I don't put antifreeze in the freshwater tank.
Head - I pour about two gallons of antifreeze into the bowl after a good fresh water flush and pump out through the macerator. I pump the crap out of the head and then pump out the tank with the macerator. Once I have pumped all of the antifreeze through the system I take the joker valve out of the head and clean it with soap and water. I leave it out until the spring. [Note: I don't test this system to ensure proper antifreeze - see below. I just go on faith for this one.]
[Note: We don't use the salt water pump for the head at current, so I don't have any water in that side of the line. This year I am going to connect the influent for the head to the head sink drain and when that is done I will change this a little. I will then close the head sink thru-hull, pour the two gallons into the head sink and pump the antifreeze into the bowl that way.]
Shower Sump & Refer - I pour about a half gallon of antifreeze in each of these and pump that through.
Engine - I installed a "T" with a ball valve at the thru-hull. I can shut the thru-hull, open the ball valve and connect a piece of hose from the valve into a bucket. I can flush the system with fresh water from the bucket. I do this for about 1/2 hour. I then shut down and change the oil. I restart the engine, flush with a more fresh water until up to temp, then add antifreeze to the bucket to winterize the engine. I can do this on the hard or in the water. Essentially, this is what MaineSail had on a post at one point.
As always, I recommend you review what MaineSail has on his site about winterizing. (
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-36543-Pump-Converter-Winterizing/dp/B0006JJ588/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_img_y)
For antifreeze, I use -50 propylene glycol antifreeze (
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|2285701|2285712&id=138806) for my fresh water, head and other plumbing systems. About $5 a gallon and I use 5 gallons. I use -100 propylene glycol antifreeze (
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|2285701|2285712&id=138821) for my engine. About $10 a gallon and use about 5 gallons.
I test my systems to ensure I have enough antifreeze. I learned this from MaineSail (
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/engine_freeze_protection). You can get test strips from Amazon for under $20 (
http://www.amazon.com/Cool-Trak-311...555186&sr=8-1&keywords=antifreeze+test+strips).
Good luck, wish I had some picks to help.
Jesse
Now I have found that Jabsco suggest no antifreeze. By pass Hot Water Tank ???
