Another Rudder bushing thread- 1990 hunter Legend 35.5

[ttibbits]

I hesitate to post this as I know there have been numerous threads on the subject. However, after much digging I am struggling to find an answer to my specific situation.
Here goes:
1990 Hunter Legend 35.5
Upon haul out this season I noticed excessive movement in my rudder. Assuming it was worn bushings I set about dropping the rudder. The process of removing the rudder went off without a hitch.
After careful measuring with calipers and inside micrometers I am finding that both the upper and lower bushings are concentric (not worn or obround) and seem to have the proper clearances to interface with the rudder shaft. The root cause of the movement appears to be that the lower bushing is "loose" in the rudder tube. I can easily wiggle it / spin it with my hand.
So my ask is this:

• Do I need to grind out the bottom of the hull, remove the lower bushing and somehow re-bed it into the shaft, or can I somehow inject epoxy around the bushing to lock it in place?

I will add that I am prepared to install new bushings if that is the right thing to do, but if I can avoid the project by doing as I suggested I will go that route.
Thank you all in advance for any knowledge you may be able to share.
Tim Tibbits

 

[rgranger]

What if you split the difference in your two plans and chisseled some of the lip away from the bushing's lip to make clearance for an syringe needle. Then inject the epoxy... and rebuild just the lip you chisseled away. I'd think you could rebuild the lip with some JB weld marine mixed with some ground fiberglass.... then using a dremel shape it back to the right depths and contour.

 

[ttibbits]

Thanks rgranger!
That sounds like a very reasonable solution. Part of my inquiry was to confirm that those bushings were indeed supposed to be bedded in place and not meant to be "free floating".
I am confident that I can clear away enough material from below to allow a good saturation of epoxy without having to remove the entire assembly.
Now to get through this dismal winter season and get back on the water sailing!
Thanks again
Tim

 

[Ted]

If you can't remove the bushing after injecting epoxy, you will have created a bigger problem the next time the bushing has to be replaced. I would remove the bushing and coat the exterior surface with a release agent (wax or other method) before injecting epoxy. If the bushing has been moving around for a while, it may have deep score marks which will make removing the bushing nearly impossibe after epoxy is injected. It would be best to replace the bushing to ensure that it can be removed at a later date.

 

[ttibbits]

Thanks Ted,
Another great point. My original plan included replacing the bushings but I started to vacillate when I observed that only the lower bushing was loose.
I suppose if I am facing fiberglass repair in either scenario, it probably makes sense to do the full repair.
Would you agree that this is the proper sequence of the project:

1. Grind away material from hull to allow lower bushing to be removed through bottom of boat
2. Fabricate new bushing
3. Coat new bushing with release agent
4. Epoxy new bushing in place using pseudo rudder post to ensure proper alignment and allow epoxy to cure
5. Rebuild hull flange under new bushing

 

[JamesG161]

I have the shop drawings for the H35.5 rudder bearings.

I will let you interpret them, but in my opinion they are concentric.

I lost my rudder in Hurricane Zeta Damage and just happened to get the bearing drawings, that include many models of Hunters.
I have discussed these drawings with Hunter 1-1 Service, Joe Kerr.

You have to looks at which drawing section has dimensions for your Hunter 35.5.
And from my H430 manual, the overall hull fit.

I will post more on my full repairs, as they happen...
Repairing boat after Hurricane Zeta

Hope this helps...
Jim...

PS: UHMW is this...
Ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene - Wikipedia

 

[ttibbits]

Thanks Jim,
Really appreciate the feedback. The information you shared is what I expected to find based on my research prior to dropping the rudder. However, it appears that I have a different rudder. Not sure if this is a model year difference or if perhaps the PO may have replaced the rudder at some point but my rudder has a straight (not tapered) SS shaft.
The stack up in my configuration has 1/4" UHMW spacer between rudder and hull, 4" UHMW Lower Bushing, 4" UHMW Upper Bushing, and then another 2" UHMW spacer and shims under the radial drive wheel.

 

[Ted]

Here is a drawing of a typical rudder bushing installation for a C&C 110. The bushings are held in place with set screws/bolts that of course do not go through the bushing material. This method might work for your specific installation too. You might be able to eliminate step #5 that you proposed. Otherwise your plan looks sound.

 

[JamesG161]

However, it appears that I have a different rudder

Yes, and most likely what my New Rudder will be also.
In my case, I will have to send to the maker my old rudder and bearings.

The new shaft will be Stainless Steel too.

So I see the straight shaft has to have different bearings.
From your experience, I may order a spare set of bearings.
Jim...

 

[ttibbits]

I am fortunate in the fact that I have access to a machine shop, so I will be able to oversee the fabrication of the bushings and our machinists love working on my "government projects"!
I will post detailed drawings and specifications of the bushings once I get them finalized.
Tim

 

[ssmyers102]

I am knee deep in a similar project , any insights ? How did it conclude ?

 

[ArkadiyS]

I know that this is a bit dated for this thread, but…. I bent the rudder shaft in my H35, and when I gave the specs to the company that replaces these rudders, it turns out that I have a larger rudder from H37 on my H35 boat. My question is whether I should just replace my rudder with the one that was architected/designed for H35 - smaller one, or with the same one as I have now - larger one. The difference is 2-4 inches for pretty much every measurement (height, width, both top and bottom)? Any suggestions?

 

[JamesG161]

My question is whether I should just replace my rudder with the one that was architected/designed for H35 - smaller one, or with the same one as I have now - larger one

My Answer with a question...

How did your old rudder preform?

I see you posted that in another spot, but I am replacing mine with exact OEM model shape.

The larger H37 should be fine.
Jim...