Annual Waxing Routine

dmax · Apr 25, 2022

This is basically the bible on hull waxing, from the ultimate source, MaineSail:

Tips For Compound, Polish & Wax

Buff Polish & Wax Try these products (for Gel-Coat only not intended for Awlgrip) The Cliff Note Version: Steps: #1-Clean the hull with an acid-base cleaner like FSR, oxalic acid, or On & Off to remove rust & tannin staining. (only if necessary) #2-Wet Sand by hand 600 (if really bad) then...

www.sailnet.com

AndyL · Apr 25, 2022

We have a similar boat. I'm not an expert but came up with this strategy after doing some reading and watching a bunch of videos.

I bought a 6" random orbital polisher from Griot's Garage and have 4 foam pads. I use it to apply the liquid wax between the waterline and rub rail just before the boat is splashed in the spring - I usually use 3 pads for the process. I use Meguiar's marine wax - one 16oz bottle. This small platform makes my life easier: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Werner-Aluminum-Work-Platform-250-Lb/5000905497

Once the wax has dried, we just polish it with microfiber cloths from the local car store. By the time I've applied all the wax, my arms are pretty tired and I think swapping pads and polishing with the machine would be hard. Using cloths seems easier plus my wife can do it while I finish applying the wax.

For the cockpit and deck areas that are not non-skid, we apply the same wax (maybe half a bottle) using small foam applicators and polish with cloth. We do this again in the fall. Not really any space to use the machine.

The boat is shrink wrapped over the winter.

This is only our second year doing this, so we won't know if it is working until more time goes by. I think there are many ways to do the same thing, so I'm not saying this is what you should do

Scott B · Apr 25, 2022

This year will be the 15th season we've had the boat. I've been following the advise from Maine Sail for all that time. Being a new boat when we got her, the sanding and heavy compound was obviously not necessary.
I've typically used either Presta Cutting Cream or 3M Finesse It II with a Dewalt 9" polisher followed by 3M paste wax applied by hand.
Some years I've skipped the Presta and just cleaned and waxed.

tfox2069 · Apr 25, 2022

+1 on Mainesail's definitive guide. I did it for the first time this year on the hull and got good results. I did my H36 myself, compounding, polishing and waxing. It is a LOT of work, but the hull looks good. It started off somewhat shiny, so compounding was relatively light. I pull the boat out every other season, so won't do it again for two years. I had it done once two years ago by a local detailer. It wasn't cheap, and they didn't compound or polish, just waxed the hull. That came out OK. Mainesail's method comes out a LOT better.

One lesson learned for me was to do as much prep work as you can in the fall when temps are a bit more predictable and somewhat higher than in early spring. I was SO glad I prepped the bottom for painting, finished the running gear cleanup/zinc replacement/paint, and hull cleaning in the fall.

Siamese · Apr 25, 2022

If you follow Mainesail's advice (I sure do), then you'll notice he doesn't recommend you use any sort of orbital machine for waxing. Use Collinite wax, per the instructions on the can or bottle, and when it dries to a haze, buff it out by hand with a clean microfiber cloth.

I always at least mentally shake my head at the guys in the marina in the spring using an orbital machine to remove the wax haze. It's a lot easier to lift a cloth than a machine, and you don't have to run power to a cloth. I wonder if any of the orbital/wax guys ever notice that you need sunglasses to look at my boat, while their's is kinda dull. I'd be glad to tell them what to do....Mainesail.

Actually, I just got home from compounding my new to me 2014 Catalina 315. I removed the old name, which left a ghost, so I figured I'd compound and polish the whole thing and do it right. Multispeed grinder polisher, Presta products, and pads all per Mainesail. Ohhh, it's work alright, but....

Scott B · Apr 26, 2022

drm1 said:
all great feedback everyone. thank you. really started down the wrong path on Sunday. Broke most of Mainesail's rules!

It was pretty shiny since I had the hull compounded and waxed by a local detailer. Did a good job and it was pretty shiny so likely only needed wax.

I used my Makita 9237CX3 orbital polisher with a wool compounding pad to apply 3M Marine Cleaner and Wax. Stopped after a small section when I noticed that I was getting swirls and holographs.

So I think to fix it I need to polish that section, and then I can apply the wax to the complete hull by hand and then hand buff the wax? I'm assuming that I only need to polish every 2 years since it still looks really shiny. And then I will follow your tip tfox and prep as much as I can in the fall, including for bottom paint since this year I just needed to do a touch up, but next year I'll need to do the complete bottom.

Yep, rule #1 ( not actually #1 but buried in the procees )

"one step" cleaner wax just does not cut it if you truly want your boat gelcoat fully reconditioned.

Also, don't forget the cleaning step, which is actually rule #1.

No, I don't polish every year, but at least clean and wax and polish every other year depending on how it looks.

Also, yes, wax on, wax off, just like the karate kid.... all by hand.

Don S/V ILLusion · Apr 26, 2022

i like it when someone cuts through all the rhetoric and concisely summarizes the topic. This is all anyone need read and follow:

Scott B said:
I've typically used either Presta Cutting Cream or 3M Finesse It II with a Dewalt 9" polisher followed by 3M paste wax applied by hand.
Some years I've skipped the Presta and just cleaned and waxed.

Scott B · Apr 26, 2022

drm1 said:
Sounds like I've got a busy weekend!

Launching on the 7th

I'm looking at th 7th as well, will be the earliest I've launched since moving up to Killbear 7 yrs. ago. Typically still ice around.

Justin_NSA · Apr 26, 2022

I've tried removing the Collinite Fleetwax by hand, but I get cleaner results with a random orbital buffer. Actually less strain on the arms . My buffer is a fraction of the weight of my Makita.

tfox2069 · Apr 26, 2022

Siamese said:
If you follow Mainesail's advice (I sure do), then you'll notice he doesn't recommend you use any sort of orbital machine for waxing. Use Collinite wax, per the instructions on the can or bottle, and when it dries to a haze, buff it out by hand with a clean microfiber cloth.

Man, after compounding and polishing my 36' boat by myself my arms were in NO shape to do another trip around the hull with my Makita!! Thankfully the Collinite doesn't need it, since the polishing step gets the hull shine to where you need it. You're just protecting it with the Collinite, not adding shine.

flightlead404 · Apr 27, 2022

Is there anything special you need to do to deal with the original factory "built in" diamond anti-skid areas?

Reason I ask is that I saw a few boats when I was shopping that had white marks probably from left over wax. Mostly visible on the two-tone anti-skid boatds.

Davidasailor26 · Apr 27, 2022

flightlead404 said:
Is there anything special you need to do to deal with the original factory "built in" diamond anti-skid areas?

Reason I ask is that I saw a few boats when I was shopping that had white marks probably from left over wax. Mostly visible on the two-tone anti-skid boatds.

We use a product called Woody Wax to protect the non-skid gelcoat. It sprays on and gets rinsed off to leave behind a protective layer that’s not slippery. I would *not* use a traditional paste or liquid wax on non-skid areas - that would be dangerously slippery.

flightlead404 · Apr 27, 2022

Thanks

Hello Below · Apr 27, 2022

Davidasailor26 said:
We use a product called Woody Wax to protect the non-skid gelcoat. It sprays on and gets rinsed off to leave behind a protective layer that’s not slippery. I would *not* use a traditional paste or liquid wax on non-skid areas - that would be dangerously slippery.

For Woody Wax.
Pricey but I only use 20 squirts on my 33, 3 or 4 times a year. A bottle lasts me about 5 years.

berner73 · Apr 27, 2022

drm1 said:
I used my Makita 9237CX3 orbital polisher with a wool compounding pad to apply 3M Marine Cleaner and Wax. Stopped after a small section when I noticed that I was getting swirls and holographs.

Curious what happened here as I've become a big fan of 3M's cleaner/wax. After doing the full Mainesail treatment several years ago (which turned out great), I now use 3M cleaner/wax each Spring as a maintenance step after washing the hull. She still looks as good as she did after the full compound/polish step. I follow the 3M with 2 coats of Collinite fleetwax by hand using a bunch of fresh microfiber cloths.

Good advice on the Woody Wax too - that stuff is great and goes a long way (also good for keeping polished stainless looking good).

Good luck on the launch.