Likewise Dave, a most impressive list of mods. Even if I didn't work full-time I couldn't live long enough to finish half of those upgrades. But I would like to follow-up on a few of your changes. 1) both you and Wally say that you removed the starboard settee. What does that mean? Is the strbrd water tank still there? ;2) is your ham rig a SSB with ham channels or strictly ham bands?; 3)engine/prop configuration?; 4) your propane, base of mast inside?, or outside?; 5) could you supply a little detail about running all lines aft?(added winches, how to anchor turning locks, etc.); 6) how about you head and holding tank?; and 7) did you increase the size of the anchor locker before installing the windlass? I assume both you and Wally are sheeted mid-boom? That seems to be a common mod on the early boats so that you can have a complete cockpit enclosure. I decided to post these questions for you and Wally here on HOW rather than by e-mail. I know too many landlocked Cherubini owners that will want every detail. Thanks again.
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Dave Simpson
Some Details
Hi Ed,.. Thanks for your inquiry. Believe me, the list is long because we've had the boat for 13 years, and we've lived aboard all that time. Therefore, most of the mods have been done to make life more liveable either at the dock or at anchor (where we intend to spend the rest of our lives, now that we are finally leaving for the Sea of Cortez). Now to the details: 1. By removing the settee, I mean just the seat and back; the tank is still there under the liner, as well as the locker. The two chairs mount on their swivels to the liner, and their bottoms are about 6" above it. Thus the need to build the riser for one's feet; otherwise they'd be dangling in the air. 2. My radio is strictly a Ham rig, and being that I'm just a Tech, I'll get reciprocal General priveledges in Mexico. 3. My engine is a 3QM30 Yanmar with aftermarket Sendure freshwater cooling. It turns a 3-blade 16" solid prop. 4. The propane tanks (2- 20lb) are mounted OUTSIDE at the base of the mast where it enters the cabin. A solenoid-controlled line enters the cabin there and supplies the flash water heater in the shower and also the stove/oven. A second line goes over the cabin top along the handrail and drops in just above the refrigerator, minimizing the exposure inside. One short line; one connection. This one is controlled by a manual valve at the manifold. There is a gas sniffer mounted at floor level just opposite the fridge. 5. Leading the lines aft starts with a perforated SS plate that mounts at the base of the mast (drilled & tapped holes into the aluminum fixture on the cabintop) The edges of the plate are bent up at a 45-degree angle, and has 1" holes all around. These holes receive the shackles of Garhauer (they're great!) blocks. The lines then lead to 3-sheave turning blocks on the cabintop on each side, and then to triple rope clutches forward of the winches on the cabintop. All the mounting is done with 1/4"-20 SS bolts and nuts through the cabintop with SS backing plates inside. Also, I removed the stbd mast winch, and put it on the stbd side of the cabintop. Line arrangers on the aft bulkhead, and you're all set. The lines are: main halyard, staysail halyard, boomvang,first reef (single line reefing), second reef, and main sheet. 6. Head: Wilcox-Crittenden Imperial just rebuilt. Holding tank: Original and in continuous use for 13 years..I'm holding my breath! If and when it needs replacing (I'm SURE it will) I will put a new tank in the locker under the stbd berth. 7. No, I didn't enlarge the anchor locker. It wasn't necessary. The Lofrans Tigres windlass fit nicely and feeds directly into the chain locker below. To get more contact on the gypsy though, I installed a roller just forward of the windlass, passing the rode under it. This works well. And no, my sheeting is as original on the bridgedeck traveller. The design is technically better, and with the dodger just fwd and the bimini just aft of the sheet, we get by (don't forget, this boat goes to sunny climes!). Hope this answers your questions Ed, and feel free (but be quick) to ask more. We'll leave for Southern waters in a few weeks. Best regards, Dave
Hi Ed,.. Thanks for your inquiry. Believe me, the list is long because we've had the boat for 13 years, and we've lived aboard all that time. Therefore, most of the mods have been done to make life more liveable either at the dock or at anchor (where we intend to spend the rest of our lives, now that we are finally leaving for the Sea of Cortez). Now to the details: 1. By removing the settee, I mean just the seat and back; the tank is still there under the liner, as well as the locker. The two chairs mount on their swivels to the liner, and their bottoms are about 6" above it. Thus the need to build the riser for one's feet; otherwise they'd be dangling in the air. 2. My radio is strictly a Ham rig, and being that I'm just a Tech, I'll get reciprocal General priveledges in Mexico. 3. My engine is a 3QM30 Yanmar with aftermarket Sendure freshwater cooling. It turns a 3-blade 16" solid prop. 4. The propane tanks (2- 20lb) are mounted OUTSIDE at the base of the mast where it enters the cabin. A solenoid-controlled line enters the cabin there and supplies the flash water heater in the shower and also the stove/oven. A second line goes over the cabin top along the handrail and drops in just above the refrigerator, minimizing the exposure inside. One short line; one connection. This one is controlled by a manual valve at the manifold. There is a gas sniffer mounted at floor level just opposite the fridge. 5. Leading the lines aft starts with a perforated SS plate that mounts at the base of the mast (drilled & tapped holes into the aluminum fixture on the cabintop) The edges of the plate are bent up at a 45-degree angle, and has 1" holes all around. These holes receive the shackles of Garhauer (they're great!) blocks. The lines then lead to 3-sheave turning blocks on the cabintop on each side, and then to triple rope clutches forward of the winches on the cabintop. All the mounting is done with 1/4"-20 SS bolts and nuts through the cabintop with SS backing plates inside. Also, I removed the stbd mast winch, and put it on the stbd side of the cabintop. Line arrangers on the aft bulkhead, and you're all set. The lines are: main halyard, staysail halyard, boomvang,first reef (single line reefing), second reef, and main sheet. 6. Head: Wilcox-Crittenden Imperial just rebuilt. Holding tank: Original and in continuous use for 13 years..I'm holding my breath! If and when it needs replacing (I'm SURE it will) I will put a new tank in the locker under the stbd berth. 7. No, I didn't enlarge the anchor locker. It wasn't necessary. The Lofrans Tigres windlass fit nicely and feeds directly into the chain locker below. To get more contact on the gypsy though, I installed a roller just forward of the windlass, passing the rode under it. This works well. And no, my sheeting is as original on the bridgedeck traveller. The design is technically better, and with the dodger just fwd and the bimini just aft of the sheet, we get by (don't forget, this boat goes to sunny climes!). Hope this answers your questions Ed, and feel free (but be quick) to ask more. We'll leave for Southern waters in a few weeks. Best regards, Dave
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Steve
16'' prop with what pitch?
Dave You mentioned you turn a 16'' prop. on your yarnmar. What pitch is that and what rpm do you max out at. Also, it sounds like you have been in the sea of cortez for a while. I am in the process of moving my boat (37' hunter c) from Florida to San Carlos. Any comments? Thanks Steve
Dave You mentioned you turn a 16'' prop. on your yarnmar. What pitch is that and what rpm do you max out at. Also, it sounds like you have been in the sea of cortez for a while. I am in the process of moving my boat (37' hunter c) from Florida to San Carlos. Any comments? Thanks Steve
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Ed Schenck
Couple of points of clarification.
Thanks for the detail and your patience Dave. A couple of follow-up questions regarding aft-led lines. I have seen that mast base-plate that you describe. Did I understand that it is not thru-bolted, just tapped into the existing mast step? And how is the angle from the blocks to the turning blocks handled? Isn't there a downward angle that can cause some chafing and binding? And I gather that your mainsheet goes all the way forward, down through one of the mast step blocks, and out to a turning block. I have decided to keep my mainsheet at the traveller because of the resistance. Bought Garhauer fiddles with a cam cleat for that purpose. But I would love to have the halyards and boom vang back in the cockpit. What about your staysail sheet, does it still run back along the toe-rail? Finally, how will you communicate while at anchor(will we still be able to tap your brain)?
Thanks for the detail and your patience Dave. A couple of follow-up questions regarding aft-led lines. I have seen that mast base-plate that you describe. Did I understand that it is not thru-bolted, just tapped into the existing mast step? And how is the angle from the blocks to the turning blocks handled? Isn't there a downward angle that can cause some chafing and binding? And I gather that your mainsheet goes all the way forward, down through one of the mast step blocks, and out to a turning block. I have decided to keep my mainsheet at the traveller because of the resistance. Bought Garhauer fiddles with a cam cleat for that purpose. But I would love to have the halyards and boom vang back in the cockpit. What about your staysail sheet, does it still run back along the toe-rail? Finally, how will you communicate while at anchor(will we still be able to tap your brain)?
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Dave Simpson
Back at you
Hi Steve & Ed..... Steve, the pitch on my prop to the best of my memory is 15"...not really sure though. Max RPM is 2,800, and per the Yanmar guys at a seminar I attended, I back off that a couple hundred for max cruising speed. Not in the Sea of Cortez yet, but we're headed there in February. I have heard good things about San Carlos (the one on the mainland across from Escondido?). Sounds like quite a trip...through the ditch?....overland? Ed, yes, the mounting bolts 1/4"-20 SS, 12 of them, are tapped directly into the 3/16" plate and sealed with 3M5200. I figure if I ever have to unstep the mast, it'll be a job, but it's worth it to have a good strong seal. About the down-angle you mentioned, it is negligable, in that the lines leave the sheave about 2-1/2" off the deck and travel about 24" to the turning block. I've forgotten my trig functions, but I'd say the angle is less than 5-degrees, and there is no interference or binding, so go ahead and lead your lines into the cockpit, you'll be glad you did. Yes, my mainsheet goes forward and then back, but with the Garhauer fiddles, the friction is not enough to worry about. The staysail sheet is as original along the deck. And, as to keeping in touch, my email will be via HF radio through Airmail and the kind Hams who volunteer to pass messages through. My addrress is AboardDuet@hotmail.com. I fully intend to monitor this BB at internet-cafes and libraries as we travel, so you ain't heard the last of me yet! One other thing: All through the many alterations and things I've done to Duet, she has always been very accomodating. By this I mean Mr. Cherubini designed, and Hunter built a very solid boat! There has always been a beefy foundation upon which I could build or change. And the basic features of the boat remain the same......she's beautiful!!!! Fair winds, Dave
Hi Steve & Ed..... Steve, the pitch on my prop to the best of my memory is 15"...not really sure though. Max RPM is 2,800, and per the Yanmar guys at a seminar I attended, I back off that a couple hundred for max cruising speed. Not in the Sea of Cortez yet, but we're headed there in February. I have heard good things about San Carlos (the one on the mainland across from Escondido?). Sounds like quite a trip...through the ditch?....overland? Ed, yes, the mounting bolts 1/4"-20 SS, 12 of them, are tapped directly into the 3/16" plate and sealed with 3M5200. I figure if I ever have to unstep the mast, it'll be a job, but it's worth it to have a good strong seal. About the down-angle you mentioned, it is negligable, in that the lines leave the sheave about 2-1/2" off the deck and travel about 24" to the turning block. I've forgotten my trig functions, but I'd say the angle is less than 5-degrees, and there is no interference or binding, so go ahead and lead your lines into the cockpit, you'll be glad you did. Yes, my mainsheet goes forward and then back, but with the Garhauer fiddles, the friction is not enough to worry about. The staysail sheet is as original along the deck. And, as to keeping in touch, my email will be via HF radio through Airmail and the kind Hams who volunteer to pass messages through. My addrress is AboardDuet@hotmail.com. I fully intend to monitor this BB at internet-cafes and libraries as we travel, so you ain't heard the last of me yet! One other thing: All through the many alterations and things I've done to Duet, she has always been very accomodating. By this I mean Mr. Cherubini designed, and Hunter built a very solid boat! There has always been a beefy foundation upon which I could build or change. And the basic features of the boat remain the same......she's beautiful!!!! Fair winds, Dave
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