I just had my first experience anchoring our new to us boat. On the positive note, the anchor held fast in the San Franciso Bay mud. Now for the questions. I've attached a photo of my anchor roller, locker and windlass for reference. First, where do I tie the line off when I anchor? I tied it off to the starboard bow cleat, but it seems like you'd want the line to come straight back from the roller. It seems like cleating the line off to the side increases the chance of the line being pulled off the roller. Should it be tied off to the windlass? Next, how do I retrieve the anchor line? Retrieving the anchor line and chain proved to be a real pain. As we motored forward I thought the windlass (manual in our case) would pull in the slack and deposit the line into the locker, but the windlass would grab on the rope. Instead as my wife motored forward my son pulled in the slack and with one hand I pushed the rope into the hole in the locker below the windlass and with the other hand I pulle the rope from below the windlass and flaked it into the front of the locker, but we couldn't do this fast enough and ended up having my wife put it in neutral several times for us to catch up. When we got to the 15' of chain the windlass pulled that in fine, but even just 15' jammed up in the hole a couple times and I had to reach below to un-jam it and flake the chain. Lastly, how can I mount my anchor on the bow roller? The design on our 1990 34' Beneteau seems awful. The roller doesn't stick out enough so that the flukes of the Danforth hit the gelcoat on the bow. It seems like any type of achor would have this same problem on our boat. I know also we'd need something to tie the anchor down while underway. The whole roller assembly seems an integral part of the bow so I can't see removing it to install a longer roller. Has anyone else had this same issue and found a work around? Thanks in advance! Bob
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Ewww...
You're right, that's a weird setup... unless it's an old "First" series? Then it would make sense. I think if you are using the danforth, I'd just keep it in the locker rather than on the roller. And I guess depending on your physical condition, I'd skip the windlass until you get it figured out. While at anchor just put the pin in the end of the roller bracket and that will keep the rode from slipping. For long term solution- maybe bring doughnuts and coffee into the local Beneteau shop and ask for a little help. I'll check some of the Ben's at the marina when I go down tomorrow and see how they set it up. B
You're right, that's a weird setup... unless it's an old "First" series? Then it would make sense. I think if you are using the danforth, I'd just keep it in the locker rather than on the roller. And I guess depending on your physical condition, I'd skip the windlass until you get it figured out. While at anchor just put the pin in the end of the roller bracket and that will keep the rode from slipping. For long term solution- maybe bring doughnuts and coffee into the local Beneteau shop and ask for a little help. I'll check some of the Ben's at the marina when I go down tomorrow and see how they set it up. B
i'd move the windlass onto the deck
forward of the locker lid, if there is room. I have a different boat, but that is my set up for my manual windlass. Then you can stand in the locker with knees braced to the side of the locker and haul in the rope rode hand over hand while motoring forward, without windlass. Then use windlass for break out anchor and for the verticle hauling when the anchor and chain is hanging below the boat. I use 60 feet of chain, and don't anchor deeper than about 45 feet, so I have gone to chain on the windlass before break out and just start pumping on the handle without having to deal with tailing the rope rode. I'd say forget the hause or whatever hole, when dealing with rope, it will never behave and jump down the hole. I see you have a chanel in your locker lid, so you will be able to lead the rode into and close the lid, aft of the windlass. With the windlass on deck, I just tie off with a couple of half hitches around the winch drum then tie off to bow cleat as back up. If you don't have room on the deck, with the furler etc, you are out of luck unless you want to convert the forward part of your hatch to a mouning platform for the windlass, which Fred ( see his #63 pic) and others have done on various boats.
forward of the locker lid, if there is room. I have a different boat, but that is my set up for my manual windlass. Then you can stand in the locker with knees braced to the side of the locker and haul in the rope rode hand over hand while motoring forward, without windlass. Then use windlass for break out anchor and for the verticle hauling when the anchor and chain is hanging below the boat. I use 60 feet of chain, and don't anchor deeper than about 45 feet, so I have gone to chain on the windlass before break out and just start pumping on the handle without having to deal with tailing the rope rode. I'd say forget the hause or whatever hole, when dealing with rope, it will never behave and jump down the hole. I see you have a chanel in your locker lid, so you will be able to lead the rode into and close the lid, aft of the windlass. With the windlass on deck, I just tie off with a couple of half hitches around the winch drum then tie off to bow cleat as back up. If you don't have room on the deck, with the furler etc, you are out of luck unless you want to convert the forward part of your hatch to a mouning platform for the windlass, which Fred ( see his #63 pic) and others have done on various boats.
Anchor Storage
Bob, The bow configuration on my 390 is almost exactly the same as yours. My 45lb CQR anchor just lays on the roller and hangs over the bow when not in use. The chain is stored in the anchor locker. The anchor locker hatch door when closed, holds down the haft of the anchor. As an additional protection, I attach a quick release shackle (short line to the toerail) to the anchor should it ever decide to let go. I have an electric windlass and when deploying or retrieving the anchor, the hatch door is always open and I normally stand in the anchor locker. It all works just fine. All chain is good.
Bob, The bow configuration on my 390 is almost exactly the same as yours. My 45lb CQR anchor just lays on the roller and hangs over the bow when not in use. The chain is stored in the anchor locker. The anchor locker hatch door when closed, holds down the haft of the anchor. As an additional protection, I attach a quick release shackle (short line to the toerail) to the anchor should it ever decide to let go. I have an electric windlass and when deploying or retrieving the anchor, the hatch door is always open and I normally stand in the anchor locker. It all works just fine. All chain is good.
Similar To Mine
Bob, Your anchor roller looks very similar to the one on my Beneteau OC350, which also has a manual windlass. I tied the bitter end of my anchor rode to the eye inside the anchor locker. While at anchor I just cleat the anchor rode off to the starboard cleat like you did, it is not even in the windlass at anchor. There is an opening on the starboard side of my anchor locker so the rode will fit through and still allow the lid to close. As far as the windlass goes, my Goiot manual is just plain slow. Most of the time I'll have my wife motor ahead while I pull in the rode by hand. I find this quicker and easier than using the windlass, we'll generally have to stop a couple of times as she can motor faster than I can retrieve. However when I'm out by myself or if it gets rough I've found it can take me 15-20 minutes and a lot of effort to bring in 120' of rode. I have to manually tail the rope portion, which I flake on the deck and then every 30' or so I'll cleat off the rode and stow the flaked portion in the locker. My rode bunches up like yours when going into the locker and that's one of the reasons I do it 30' at a time. I will generally pull it through by reaching into the anchor locker and grabbing the rode, this way I can lay it in the forward part of the locker leaving the back portion for the chain. I'll be coming to the Bay from the Delta in a few weeks, where's your home port?
Bob, Your anchor roller looks very similar to the one on my Beneteau OC350, which also has a manual windlass. I tied the bitter end of my anchor rode to the eye inside the anchor locker. While at anchor I just cleat the anchor rode off to the starboard cleat like you did, it is not even in the windlass at anchor. There is an opening on the starboard side of my anchor locker so the rode will fit through and still allow the lid to close. As far as the windlass goes, my Goiot manual is just plain slow. Most of the time I'll have my wife motor ahead while I pull in the rode by hand. I find this quicker and easier than using the windlass, we'll generally have to stop a couple of times as she can motor faster than I can retrieve. However when I'm out by myself or if it gets rough I've found it can take me 15-20 minutes and a lot of effort to bring in 120' of rode. I have to manually tail the rope portion, which I flake on the deck and then every 30' or so I'll cleat off the rode and stow the flaked portion in the locker. My rode bunches up like yours when going into the locker and that's one of the reasons I do it 30' at a time. I will generally pull it through by reaching into the anchor locker and grabbing the rode, this way I can lay it in the forward part of the locker leaving the back portion for the chain. I'll be coming to the Bay from the Delta in a few weeks, where's your home port?
One More Thing
I forgot about your anchor hitting the bow. When I use a Danforth anchor from the bow roller, it will hit. I replaced it witha 22 pound Delta and it is very seldom that it hits. Your other option is a different type of anchor roller, but when I looked into it, I found it easier to get the Delta than to remove and replace the existing roller. I think the hitting the bow is as much a function of the almost square bow on my OC350 as it is the anchor.
I forgot about your anchor hitting the bow. When I use a Danforth anchor from the bow roller, it will hit. I replaced it witha 22 pound Delta and it is very seldom that it hits. Your other option is a different type of anchor roller, but when I looked into it, I found it easier to get the Delta than to remove and replace the existing roller. I think the hitting the bow is as much a function of the almost square bow on my OC350 as it is the anchor.
Unless it's really windy out
we almost never use the motor to pull up to the anchor, and in some cases, pull up the anchor. I read a long time ago how patience sometimes works, and you get a cup or two of coffee to go with it.
Just start pulling in the anchor rode. If it's NOT windy, you'll find that the boat, once it gains a bit of momentum, will creep forward as you continue to GENTLY pull. This is NOT backbreaking, rush it work, but rather an opportunity to sit on the foredeck with your morning brew and pull in the line. You'd be surprised how quickly you end up above your anchor. You could use the motor to release the anchor, but we've found with a little more patience, once the rode is vertical for a few minutes, the anchor will pull itself out as the boat waltzes around a bit. Sometimes we sail out if the wind is very light, sometimes then we start the engine -- with safety in mind if other vessels are nearby. Try it sometimes, it's a lot quieter, maybe not quicker, but who's in a hurry anyway? Enjoy your morning brew -- don't think this'd work with all chain. We've been doing this with all our boats for years (C22, C25, C34) Stu
we almost never use the motor to pull up to the anchor, and in some cases, pull up the anchor. I read a long time ago how patience sometimes works, and you get a cup or two of coffee to go with it.
Just start pulling in the anchor rode. If it's NOT windy, you'll find that the boat, once it gains a bit of momentum, will creep forward as you continue to GENTLY pull. This is NOT backbreaking, rush it work, but rather an opportunity to sit on the foredeck with your morning brew and pull in the line. You'd be surprised how quickly you end up above your anchor. You could use the motor to release the anchor, but we've found with a little more patience, once the rode is vertical for a few minutes, the anchor will pull itself out as the boat waltzes around a bit. Sometimes we sail out if the wind is very light, sometimes then we start the engine -- with safety in mind if other vessels are nearby. Try it sometimes, it's a lot quieter, maybe not quicker, but who's in a hurry anyway? Enjoy your morning brew -- don't think this'd work with all chain. We've been doing this with all our boats for years (C22, C25, C34) StuI use Stu's method.
just before lifting anchor we find it is the best time to raise the main sail as the boat should be pointing into the wind. Loosen the main sheet and raise the sail. With the main sheet loose the boat is going nowhere. Go up front and slowly hand over hand bring in the rode until the boat is on top of the anchor. If you can break the hold by hand fine, if not create an up and down movement in the bow and take line in when it goes down and let the bouyancy of the boat pick up and break the hold. When you get the anchor up just stow it away and go back to the cockpit and bring in the mainsheet to fill up the sail and start moving. If the wind is blowing hard just work harder and slower. Never tie the rode to your windlass. I see from your photo that you have an opening on your rail for dock lines opposite a deck cleat; that is where you want your rode not on top of the roller. Just use the roller to help you lower and retreive. The windlass does not give you speed, but it gives you tremendous force for those windy days. I once saw a small older lady pull up a 35# CQR on a 38 ft boat with a manual windlass with practically no effort. I think she had more trouble hearing than bringing it up. Hope this helps.
just before lifting anchor we find it is the best time to raise the main sail as the boat should be pointing into the wind. Loosen the main sheet and raise the sail. With the main sheet loose the boat is going nowhere. Go up front and slowly hand over hand bring in the rode until the boat is on top of the anchor. If you can break the hold by hand fine, if not create an up and down movement in the bow and take line in when it goes down and let the bouyancy of the boat pick up and break the hold. When you get the anchor up just stow it away and go back to the cockpit and bring in the mainsheet to fill up the sail and start moving. If the wind is blowing hard just work harder and slower. Never tie the rode to your windlass. I see from your photo that you have an opening on your rail for dock lines opposite a deck cleat; that is where you want your rode not on top of the roller. Just use the roller to help you lower and retreive. The windlass does not give you speed, but it gives you tremendous force for those windy days. I once saw a small older lady pull up a 35# CQR on a 38 ft boat with a manual windlass with practically no effort. I think she had more trouble hearing than bringing it up. Hope this helps.
I agree with Benny and Stu
I don't even use the windlass. Just hand over hand till the rode is up and down and then let the boat bobbinb around free the anchor. A couple of heavy pulls later the anchor is on deck. windlasses are for bigger boats and bigger anchors or for those really old salts who just need a little help in the muscle department.
I don't even use the windlass. Just hand over hand till the rode is up and down and then let the boat bobbinb around free the anchor. A couple of heavy pulls later the anchor is on deck. windlasses are for bigger boats and bigger anchors or for those really old salts who just need a little help in the muscle department.
Just what I do......
When I anchor, I tend to tie the anchor line to the starboard cleat and I use a "snubber" on the port cleat to keep the line centered on the anchor roller. I've never had a problem and the line has always remained on the roller.
When I anchor, I tend to tie the anchor line to the starboard cleat and I use a "snubber" on the port cleat to keep the line centered on the anchor roller. I've never had a problem and the line has always remained on the roller.
Thanks!
Thanks all for the input. Sounds like what I'm doing is not too far off what others are doing. I have a Beneteau Oceanis 350 so is the same as Glen G. and although different than the boat Bill shows a picture of, the anchor roller sure looks pretty similar from what I can see. (Glen G. - my home port is in Richmond...a small boat harbor on the Chevron refinery property. Where do you plan to be in the Bay?). I was thinking a Delta might work better staying on the roller and not hitting so I might try that and keep the Danforth as the backup. I especially like Stu's method of anchor retrieval. I'll try to take it a step further and have my 11 year old bring in the line which would make my coffee dinking/supervising even more relaxing!! Thanks again, Bob
Thanks all for the input. Sounds like what I'm doing is not too far off what others are doing. I have a Beneteau Oceanis 350 so is the same as Glen G. and although different than the boat Bill shows a picture of, the anchor roller sure looks pretty similar from what I can see. (Glen G. - my home port is in Richmond...a small boat harbor on the Chevron refinery property. Where do you plan to be in the Bay?). I was thinking a Delta might work better staying on the roller and not hitting so I might try that and keep the Danforth as the backup. I especially like Stu's method of anchor retrieval. I'll try to take it a step further and have my 11 year old bring in the line which would make my coffee dinking/supervising even more relaxing!! Thanks again, Bob
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