Anchoring preferences for H33

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Jim Logan

I've read the archives for past wisdom, but I thought I'd ask the question - What do most of you use to anchor?? type, size, weight, or however you wish to describe it. I usually have to anchor in good old Louisiana ooze, and really do have a problem finding an anchor that will hold in a form and weight I can handle by hand without a windlass. I single hand a lot, so being able to deal with the anchor quickly is important to me. How many of you have an anchor roller on a 33 and what did you use? Any comments appreciated.
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
Check with the locals.

Jim: Check with the local sailors in the area for anchors. What works in one area is not necessarily what works somewhere else. The bottom is more of a factor than the anchor its self. If you make sure you have adequate chain (in your case 20-35 ft) and proper scope 5:1 or better from the roller and the correct size anchor for your bottom, you will be fine. We have found that the danforth style anchors work well in the California Delta (mud and mud/sand bottom) most of the time. If we get into grass or weeds the danforth is worthless. If you get it to bite, it's okay. But you can be in trouble if it needs to reset in the grass. We like the Delta anchor, seems to be a good compromise for all bottoms. Don't think that they have the same holding power as the danforths in the mud and sand but definetly better in the grass. Now if you need to worry about rocks etc. you are in an area that I have NO experience.
 
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Mark Mowery

H33 ground tackle

Hi Jim, On our H33 we use a 33 pound Bruce with 40 feet of 5/16" chain and 1/2" nylon rode. We also have the bow roller that's made for the Bruce anchor. The roller is installed on the port side of the headstay on a slight angle, with the aft end of the roller pointing more toward amidships. We had to remove the port anchor line chock to install the roller. No windlass, my 125# wife sits on the deck and pulls the thing up by hand. (She prefers to handle the ground tackle rather than the helm.) Anything bigger than what we have, and we'd need a windlass. The anchor is maybe a bit large for the boat, but we've used it for almost a decade in the Great Lakes and Canadian North Channel/Georgian Bay area, and it's never dragged once, and so far, always sets the first time. After roller furling, it's the best investment we ever made in the boat. We also have a large Danforth with chain/nylon rode made up and ready to go in the anchor locker, but I can't recall ever using it (it came with the boat.) Also a smaller Danforth "lunch hook" that I've used occasionally in conjunction with the Bruce in some special situations.
 
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Sam Lust

The Joy of Ooze

Here on Barnegat Bay we're stuck with having to anchor in nice dense, good holding clay-sand or hard mud. The only way you're likely to drag anchor is if you don't set it or use too little scope. My method of anchoring is set up for single handing, which I'm doing even if my wife is along. I made a mahogany anchor platform that is 4 feet long by 18" wide and hangs off the bow 2 feet. A Danforth 2500 hangs under it ready to drop. The rode is lead back to the cockpit where I can use a sheet winch to reel it in. I motor up as close as I can get to the anchor, both steering and hauling at the same time, and use the winch to haul up a bunch of the bottom. If my wife's along she's up at the bow using pre arranged hand signals to let me know where the rode is. The system works very well for me. And my wife and I don't even have to talk to do it!
 
Jan 22, 2003
744
Hunter 25_73-83 Burlington NJ
The best and worthiest of anchors.

The only anchor I swear by is the CQR. I once took a 35-lb CQR (for the C-44) and ran round the yard throwing it into the air and dragging it by about 20 ft of line (must have looked like an idiot). I even tried fouling it. No matter how it landed, it rolled over and caught by about 20 ft. Sometimes it actually dug into hard gravel and became immovable. I never liked the Danforth (although there ARE occasions when it seems perfect) and this 'experiment' served to vindicate the CQR for me. The CQR is not cheap but the imitations are not quite as good. I have never heard of a CQR dragging on anything and can't even conceive of how it could (except maybe a concrete swimming-pool bottom!!!). However I have NO experience with the Bruce and understand Mr Bingham has answered most people's prayers with his invention. JC
 
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Sam

Simpson Lawernce Claw

Jim, I have a H-30 and regularly anchor in ooze of Pamlico Sound. I have a 22lbs S-L Claw mounted on a bow roller with only 5' of chain and 50' of 3/8" line. It is my quick release system always ready to deploy - it deploys and stows instantly. I have a large u bolt inside the anchor locker where it is hooked in. Claws are like bruces; but half the cost. (New 22lbs claw from Boatersworld online is only $69.99 no tax and free shipping.) Stowed I have 2, 35 lbs danforth anchors: one with 15' of 3/8" chain and one with 10' of chain. In the off seaon I actually anchor out in a gunk hole for several monthes and there is just no subsitute for a big danforth in the soft mud. So in short: Claw on roller for quick deploy and big danforth for a good nights sleep. CQR anchors are better but big bucks. Fortress makes feather weight Aluminim Danforths that are very nice; but again lots of cash. Good luck and smart shopping! Sam
 
Jul 1, 1998
3,062
Hunter Legend 35 Poulsbo/Semiahmoo WA
Running Rode Aft

If you want to stay put and sleep well at night agree with the previous responses that a 33-pount plow with appropriate chain and rode would be a good all-around solution. The plow will dig in and dig down. The chain helps bring the cantenary curve down for even better holding and reseting. To help with weighing anchor in difficult situations on our '88 H-35, since we don't have a windlass, I put a snatch block on the toe rail and run the anchor rode aft to the primary and let my wife tail while winching the anchor up. This work really well when there is a good wind blowing or the anchor is really dug in. Once the anchor breaks loose it can be pulled up the rest of the way by hand. We use 45 feet of 5/16 high-test (recommend 3/8 BBB) so when this comes up to the roller and the anchor still hasn't broken loose I generally have to help the shackle over the bow roller to continue. There are a lot of boats that use the minimum sized ground tackle and I'm surprised there aren't more problems than there are. This is no place to skimp.
 
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Tim Schaaf

Go big

My system may seem a bit like overkill, but I have spent as much as eighteen months in a row away from any docks, and in areas of big wind and currents, so it has helped me sleep very well. My primary anchor is a Bruce 33 (although I went for years with a 22 that also did the trick). My back-up is a CQR 35. I have two Danforths for stern hooks, and a Fortress FX-37 as a storm anchor. I feel strongly that for serious anchoring, where you will swing with the wind or current, a Bruce, CQR or Delta are the only choices, as they re-set without problem. The Danforth type has more holding power in a straight line so is good for Bahamian moor or bow and stern but can be treacherous in a swinging situation. My primary rode is 220 feet of 1/4 inch Hi-Tensile chain, with 300 feet of line behind it. Other rodes use up to 60 feet of 5/16 chain and 100 to 300 feet of line. I use the bow roller that is specifically designed for the Bruce 22, It is a Windline BRM-4, commonly available. By taking the upper roller off of its axle (but replacing the axle), it fits either the Bruce 33 or the CQR 35 very well. It is installed immediately to starboard of the headstay and parallel to centerline. The original fairleads for the docklines are moved aft so that they sit up on teak blocks inside the toerail. Their lead is above the toerail. The big anchor cleat is rotated about fifteen degrees counter-clockwise to improve its lead and to make space for the bow roller. This is all quite simple to do. The chain and anchor are quite easily raised from a sitting position, on the aft edge of the anchor locker and with feet against the pulpit legs. I rock back and forth, kind of like rowing a boat. If I run into real trouble breaking the anchor free, I can always run a line from the chain to the mast winches and give a tug. If there is a lot of wind, I put the engine in gear at very low RPM's to take up the strain. If I am in a crowded anchorage, I take my autopilot remote forward so that I can steer when the anchor is off the bottom. I routinely anchor in depths up to 55 feet, usually single-handed, and the system has worked well. It would be very nice to have a windlass, but with all that chain up forward, I am reluctant to add the weight of a windlass. Plus, I kind of like to curl up on the foredeck, and it seemed like needless expense.
 
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