Well I have been reading on the internet about anchoring overnight and quit frankly it scares me. I'm always afraid I'll wake up to a whole in the side of my boat and I'm smashed up against a cliff or something. How do you guys sleep at night? (in the boat that is) Its such a pain anchoring Does anyone have any mods that make anchoring any easier. Even when I use scope two anchors with chain and waits I still end up not in the same place. Will beaching the boat do damage to the gel coat or fiberglass. Thanks Ryan
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I share your sentiments...
about anchoring...always makes me nervous too. First, make sure you have the right style of anchor for the bottom. Also, make sure it's big enough. Second, make sure you use the right amount of scope...the optimum angle of pull should be less than 12 degrees, so in most cases you will need a least 8-1 scope. Catenary is another issue that relates to angle of pull. Catenary (in this context) is the sag in the anchor rope that acts as a shock absorber. You can add a kellet (small weight) to the anchor line about half way down...and use some chain. The chain is useful as chafe prevention, but it also contributes to a lower angle of pull. Next, set your GPS anchor alarm and if you have a remote antenna put it right next to your head when you go to bed. Finally, if you have a depth meter, set the anchor alarm on that too.
about anchoring...always makes me nervous too. First, make sure you have the right style of anchor for the bottom. Also, make sure it's big enough. Second, make sure you use the right amount of scope...the optimum angle of pull should be less than 12 degrees, so in most cases you will need a least 8-1 scope. Catenary is another issue that relates to angle of pull. Catenary (in this context) is the sag in the anchor rope that acts as a shock absorber. You can add a kellet (small weight) to the anchor line about half way down...and use some chain. The chain is useful as chafe prevention, but it also contributes to a lower angle of pull. Next, set your GPS anchor alarm and if you have a remote antenna put it right next to your head when you go to bed. Finally, if you have a depth meter, set the anchor alarm on that too.
I have no problem..........
with anchoring. In fact I rafted up this weekend in a large lake, and although we drug a little, after we re-set them, we didn't slip an inch. Remember the swing is double so set the GPS for more than double the drag that you think. We had 1 13 pounder holding 2 Mac 25's. And we all slept like babies.
with anchoring. In fact I rafted up this weekend in a large lake, and although we drug a little, after we re-set them, we didn't slip an inch. Remember the swing is double so set the GPS for more than double the drag that you think. We had 1 13 pounder holding 2 Mac 25's. And we all slept like babies.
practice, practice, practice
Like anything else, practice makes perfect. I anchor and sleep onboard my 26x as often as possible. Practice dropping the hook and staying for a while during the daytime first. find a cove and anchor for lunch. or fish for a while or whatever. do it a few times in the daytime to check things out. make sure you have at least 8-10 feet of chain, use lots of rode and enjoy the "swinging" There's nothing better than sleeping on a boat at anchor. Beaching would be a little harsh on the bottom, plus the boat won't be level and it will rock back and forth as opposed to float freely...... .....my suggestion, practice and learn how to anchor.
Like anything else, practice makes perfect. I anchor and sleep onboard my 26x as often as possible. Practice dropping the hook and staying for a while during the daytime first. find a cove and anchor for lunch. or fish for a while or whatever. do it a few times in the daytime to check things out. make sure you have at least 8-10 feet of chain, use lots of rode and enjoy the "swinging" There's nothing better than sleeping on a boat at anchor. Beaching would be a little harsh on the bottom, plus the boat won't be level and it will rock back and forth as opposed to float freely...... .....my suggestion, practice and learn how to anchor.
Anchoring Overnight
I have thought about this problem and have read a lot of info on forums about anchoring. Anchoring is a subject that will ellicit a huge response, but no one system is "best". Having stated that, I can tell you what I have for my overnight on-the-hook equipment. Since I anchor in inland lakes and rivers, my bottom composition is mostly elluvial sand and gravel. Since I am in the mountains, there will be at least one 180 degree wind direction shift, as the mountains breathe at night. I chose a Bruce type of anchor for its ability to hold in sand and mud, and its ability to RESET itself, after the wind changes. It is a 16 pound anchor, on 10 feet of S/S chain with a swivel and 200 feet of 1/2 inch twisted 3 strand nylon anchor line. I have upgraded my cleats to 8 inch herreschof style, and I have a bow roller and pulpit that stores the anchor and "captures" the rode after the anchor is dropped. I sleep lightly, and I actually enjoy getting up to check out the boat at least once a night. There is another reason I like to set the hook. If one ties up to a dock, as is the case for anyone who stays on these lakes overnight, and doesn't have an anchoring system they can trust, sooner or later a light chop will slap the side of the hull, usually right by my head. Now that keeps me awake. If I am on the hook, the boat orients itself so that the chop is split by the bow, and I can sleep without that noise. My lunch hook is a typical danforth type, but usually I just beach the boat. John S
I have thought about this problem and have read a lot of info on forums about anchoring. Anchoring is a subject that will ellicit a huge response, but no one system is "best". Having stated that, I can tell you what I have for my overnight on-the-hook equipment. Since I anchor in inland lakes and rivers, my bottom composition is mostly elluvial sand and gravel. Since I am in the mountains, there will be at least one 180 degree wind direction shift, as the mountains breathe at night. I chose a Bruce type of anchor for its ability to hold in sand and mud, and its ability to RESET itself, after the wind changes. It is a 16 pound anchor, on 10 feet of S/S chain with a swivel and 200 feet of 1/2 inch twisted 3 strand nylon anchor line. I have upgraded my cleats to 8 inch herreschof style, and I have a bow roller and pulpit that stores the anchor and "captures" the rode after the anchor is dropped. I sleep lightly, and I actually enjoy getting up to check out the boat at least once a night. There is another reason I like to set the hook. If one ties up to a dock, as is the case for anyone who stays on these lakes overnight, and doesn't have an anchoring system they can trust, sooner or later a light chop will slap the side of the hull, usually right by my head. Now that keeps me awake. If I am on the hook, the boat orients itself so that the chop is split by the bow, and I can sleep without that noise. My lunch hook is a typical danforth type, but usually I just beach the boat. John S
bahamian moor
the right anchor for the bottom is critical. if you expect wind/tide shifts 2 anchors will help you get that rest. an anchor alarm is also good for the extra margin of safety. I also try to dive my anchor. http://www.pelicanpower.com/abacoguide/bahamianmoor.htm
the right anchor for the bottom is critical. if you expect wind/tide shifts 2 anchors will help you get that rest. an anchor alarm is also good for the extra margin of safety. I also try to dive my anchor. http://www.pelicanpower.com/abacoguide/bahamianmoor.htm
Best link....
Well, we just pulled into Cleveland and stopped at an internet bar. I'm pretty hung over, but Chuck went to bed early...so I trust him. Here is the very best information about anchoring I've ever seen. Now, if you are put off by math you probably won't like it...but it is a very good description of the subject. Gotta grab my espresso and get back on the road. Like I'm sure you care.
Well, we just pulled into Cleveland and stopped at an internet bar. I'm pretty hung over, but Chuck went to bed early...so I trust him. Here is the very best information about anchoring I've ever seen. Now, if you are put off by math you probably won't like it...but it is a very good description of the subject. Gotta grab my espresso and get back on the road. Like I'm sure you care.
Addict
I've never stopped any where and got on line. Of course, it's kind of my job so when I can not touch a computer I don't. You might want to look at some kind of HELP Dave... maybe a new hobby, perhaps you should DRINK MORE!
I've never stopped any where and got on line. Of course, it's kind of my job so when I can not touch a computer I don't. You might want to look at some kind of HELP Dave... maybe a new hobby, perhaps you should DRINK MORE!
Just got to Toledo...stopped by to see a friend...
He graduated from the University of Toledo in engineering...took him 7 years...but you have to respect the effort...I didn't even know you could get an engineering degree from the UofT until I met him! Yeah, that comment about drinkin' stirred some still existing brain cells. The first time we did this trip we discovered that trying to balance 12 cases of beer on a kayak is pretty tricky. So, we switched to vodka. But even that was bulky. Turns out I have a "friend" who works in the chem lab at SUNY@Buffalo and has access to absolute alchohol (almost 200 proof). I have access to some of the more lesser reputable humans and found that we have, what shall I call it...mutual interests. So, I trade him stuff for the stuff he gives me...it's all about networking. We have found that if you spike absolute alchohol with a little slap jack molasses and some rootbeer koolaid...after a few of 'em, it almost tastes like rum. And it's way less bulky.
He graduated from the University of Toledo in engineering...took him 7 years...but you have to respect the effort...I didn't even know you could get an engineering degree from the UofT until I met him! Yeah, that comment about drinkin' stirred some still existing brain cells. The first time we did this trip we discovered that trying to balance 12 cases of beer on a kayak is pretty tricky. So, we switched to vodka. But even that was bulky. Turns out I have a "friend" who works in the chem lab at SUNY@Buffalo and has access to absolute alchohol (almost 200 proof). I have access to some of the more lesser reputable humans and found that we have, what shall I call it...mutual interests. So, I trade him stuff for the stuff he gives me...it's all about networking. We have found that if you spike absolute alchohol with a little slap jack molasses and some rootbeer koolaid...after a few of 'em, it almost tastes like rum. And it's way less bulky.
Rebar
That reminds me of a camping/canoe/drinking trip from back in college. One set of guys, in a rubber raft loaded with way too many cases of beer. Hit a piece of rebar 6 feet into the journey. They decided they could lighten the load by drinking heavily and keep it floating by blowing up the raft on every sand bar. Oh yeah, there was still ice clinging to some parts of the bank. Brrrr.... Pretty lit up by the time they arrived at the cabin.
That reminds me of a camping/canoe/drinking trip from back in college. One set of guys, in a rubber raft loaded with way too many cases of beer. Hit a piece of rebar 6 feet into the journey. They decided they could lighten the load by drinking heavily and keep it floating by blowing up the raft on every sand bar. Oh yeah, there was still ice clinging to some parts of the bank. Brrrr.... Pretty lit up by the time they arrived at the cabin.
What works on a Mac?
What a load of crap! Those links are for ocean going boats, not trailerable, beachable lightweights like this line of Macgregors. How about the "best" link from our resident intoxicated advocate, Dave. Everything you need to know about a bunch of nothing. My question is this: what works on a Mac? About beaching your boat, I regularly beach my boat, and the gelcoat is still there on the bottom of my boat, albeit scuffed. Of course one should avoid gravel or rocks, but beach sand is fine for running these boats aground. Gunkholing to me means being able to beach the boat and explore, something a fixed keel cannot accomplish. Our boats are designed to be landing craft, too. I only draw a few inches with the rudder and dboard up, I go where few other boats can. John S
What a load of crap! Those links are for ocean going boats, not trailerable, beachable lightweights like this line of Macgregors. How about the "best" link from our resident intoxicated advocate, Dave. Everything you need to know about a bunch of nothing. My question is this: what works on a Mac? About beaching your boat, I regularly beach my boat, and the gelcoat is still there on the bottom of my boat, albeit scuffed. Of course one should avoid gravel or rocks, but beach sand is fine for running these boats aground. Gunkholing to me means being able to beach the boat and explore, something a fixed keel cannot accomplish. Our boats are designed to be landing craft, too. I only draw a few inches with the rudder and dboard up, I go where few other boats can. John S
don't have a gps or depth finder
Well i've read about people on here using depth finders and GPS systems. I had no idea you could set an alarm on them. I have an old backpacking GPS system that gives me location but no alarm. A depth finder sounds like a good idea if it has an alarm is that the only thing you use it for. ( I guess to pull up your keel in shallow) I am going to go buy a shitload of anchors, chains, and ropes and just throw everything I got out into the water and hope for the best. Mean while I may go price some depth finder's with alarms.
Well i've read about people on here using depth finders and GPS systems. I had no idea you could set an alarm on them. I have an old backpacking GPS system that gives me location but no alarm. A depth finder sounds like a good idea if it has an alarm is that the only thing you use it for. ( I guess to pull up your keel in shallow) I am going to go buy a shitload of anchors, chains, and ropes and just throw everything I got out into the water and hope for the best. Mean while I may go price some depth finder's with alarms.
Situational Awareness
Ryan - I have a 26M and for the most part I find a 13# danforth with 15 feet of 1/2" chain to be perfectly serviceable. I have anchored many times overnight with just this anchor and have never had it drag - the solution is as much HOW you put it down as WHAT you put down. If I know I am going to be anchoring in heavier weather or for several days at the same spot, I also have a 20# Bruce. The Bruce is also my anchor of choice in rocky or grassy bottoms. If you want a single anchor that works in just about any condition, take a look at Bulwagga's - but they are pricey and will not go in your anchor locker. A few notes about anchoring: 1. Approach your anchoring spot from downwind, i.e. point your nose upwind as you approach your spot. 2. Come to a complete stop and back down slightly - then drop the anchor. A very common reason for anchors dragging is that the sailor drops his chain on top of the anchor and it all lands in a heap - you want the boat moving slowly as the anchor hits bottom so that you stretch the chain out. 3. Initially let out rode equal to about 2.5 times the depth of water, then back down until the anchor initially grabs. Then let out rode equal to about 4-6 times the depth of water (this is where a depth sounder comes in handy). Remember to take tide into account - let out rode based on high tide depth. 4. Once you've let out all the rode you need, back down on the anchor with force about equal to what the weather report says you are going to experience overnight, be liberal. Pick 2 points on the shore that line up and watch them to see if they stay in line once you have the rode pulled tight (remember that nylon line stretches a lot). This will show you that the anchor is holding. 5. In tidal waters, you can know when the direction of current is going to switch. This is the time to set your alarm to get up in the middle of the night and ensure that once the boat swings around, the anchor is still set. If you are not in tidal waters, base this checkpoint time on when the wind tends to switch or when the weather report says a front is passing. My GPS unit (Garmin 188C) has several alarms that can be set. One of them is based on "swing circle" - you mark the position of the anchor, and then tell the unit how much line you put out (don't forget the length of your boat) - if you get more than that distance from where it thinks the anchor is, the alarm goes off (assumes you are dragging anchor). The other alarm I use all the time is set to a minimum depth - any time the boat gets in water less than a certain depth, the alarm goes off, so if you are anchored in 20 feet of water, and suddenly the unit sees 10 feet - it alarms. I would be very careful about putting out multiple anchors - if you have 2 anchors incorrectly deployed you can actually increase the chances of dragging. Also, if the wind/current cause you to swing all the way around at night, you will wind up tangling the 2 rodes and life will be very unhappy when you try to pull them up the next morning. Check out Nigel Calder's Cruising Handbook for a good discussion of which anchors work best in certain bottom types (i.e. mud vs. sand vs. weeds vs. etc.) - Andy26M
Ryan - I have a 26M and for the most part I find a 13# danforth with 15 feet of 1/2" chain to be perfectly serviceable. I have anchored many times overnight with just this anchor and have never had it drag - the solution is as much HOW you put it down as WHAT you put down. If I know I am going to be anchoring in heavier weather or for several days at the same spot, I also have a 20# Bruce. The Bruce is also my anchor of choice in rocky or grassy bottoms. If you want a single anchor that works in just about any condition, take a look at Bulwagga's - but they are pricey and will not go in your anchor locker. A few notes about anchoring: 1. Approach your anchoring spot from downwind, i.e. point your nose upwind as you approach your spot. 2. Come to a complete stop and back down slightly - then drop the anchor. A very common reason for anchors dragging is that the sailor drops his chain on top of the anchor and it all lands in a heap - you want the boat moving slowly as the anchor hits bottom so that you stretch the chain out. 3. Initially let out rode equal to about 2.5 times the depth of water, then back down until the anchor initially grabs. Then let out rode equal to about 4-6 times the depth of water (this is where a depth sounder comes in handy). Remember to take tide into account - let out rode based on high tide depth. 4. Once you've let out all the rode you need, back down on the anchor with force about equal to what the weather report says you are going to experience overnight, be liberal. Pick 2 points on the shore that line up and watch them to see if they stay in line once you have the rode pulled tight (remember that nylon line stretches a lot). This will show you that the anchor is holding. 5. In tidal waters, you can know when the direction of current is going to switch. This is the time to set your alarm to get up in the middle of the night and ensure that once the boat swings around, the anchor is still set. If you are not in tidal waters, base this checkpoint time on when the wind tends to switch or when the weather report says a front is passing. My GPS unit (Garmin 188C) has several alarms that can be set. One of them is based on "swing circle" - you mark the position of the anchor, and then tell the unit how much line you put out (don't forget the length of your boat) - if you get more than that distance from where it thinks the anchor is, the alarm goes off (assumes you are dragging anchor). The other alarm I use all the time is set to a minimum depth - any time the boat gets in water less than a certain depth, the alarm goes off, so if you are anchored in 20 feet of water, and suddenly the unit sees 10 feet - it alarms. I would be very careful about putting out multiple anchors - if you have 2 anchors incorrectly deployed you can actually increase the chances of dragging. Also, if the wind/current cause you to swing all the way around at night, you will wind up tangling the 2 rodes and life will be very unhappy when you try to pull them up the next morning. Check out Nigel Calder's Cruising Handbook for a good discussion of which anchors work best in certain bottom types (i.e. mud vs. sand vs. weeds vs. etc.) - Andy26M
What anchor locker?
My S doesn't have one.... I don't know what to do the damn thing. The only use after two seasons was to make rust stains in my engine well. And to find out anchoring from stern isn't preferiable. So I didn't put it on when I put the boat in the other day, "never needed it so far, but the way my luck is... nah...." rudder rope in the prop, drifting for the rocks, 24+ MPH wind. John S has an aweseome set up I see, not sure where all that nasty chain and rope go to in it. Heard of some that attach a large PVC pipe to the bow pulpit and store it in that... That seems like my best option...
My S doesn't have one.... I don't know what to do the damn thing. The only use after two seasons was to make rust stains in my engine well. And to find out anchoring from stern isn't preferiable. So I didn't put it on when I put the boat in the other day, "never needed it so far, but the way my luck is... nah...." rudder rope in the prop, drifting for the rocks, 24+ MPH wind. John S has an aweseome set up I see, not sure where all that nasty chain and rope go to in it. Heard of some that attach a large PVC pipe to the bow pulpit and store it in that... That seems like my best option...
locker
There is a small rectangular panel at the very forward part of the vee berth, the liner is made of very thin fibreglas right there. Forward of the panel is the area where you will find the bow eye holding nuts, the stem fitting, and a couple of gallons of space. That is where my chain and rode are stowed. I never anchor more than overnight so my rode gets very little crud on it. I "wash" the anchor as I pull it up the last few feet. No odor problems in fresh water yet. Of course I am pretty far upstream from most of your water, it is very clean around here. I have not finished my locker yet, I am thinking about a sunbrella panel with twistlok fasteners. An unrestrained anchor could hurt someone or damage the boat, so I keep it outside. John S
There is a small rectangular panel at the very forward part of the vee berth, the liner is made of very thin fibreglas right there. Forward of the panel is the area where you will find the bow eye holding nuts, the stem fitting, and a couple of gallons of space. That is where my chain and rode are stowed. I never anchor more than overnight so my rode gets very little crud on it. I "wash" the anchor as I pull it up the last few feet. No odor problems in fresh water yet. Of course I am pretty far upstream from most of your water, it is very clean around here. I have not finished my locker yet, I am thinking about a sunbrella panel with twistlok fasteners. An unrestrained anchor could hurt someone or damage the boat, so I keep it outside. John S
A small hole?
So you cut a small hole forward around the nav light on the deck where your rope and chain go into?
So you cut a small hole forward around the nav light on the deck where your rope and chain go into?
In Ann Arbor now and staying here til tomorrow...
John, I like the "load of crap" comment...and the resident drunk allusion too. However, not all of us are sissy water sailors...some of us actually sail on man water. I would never "beach" my boat where I sail...it would be beaten to shreads overnight. Maybe where you sail you can beach it and sit out at night and watch the little beavers swim by...but here it's not possible. If you choose to remain ignorant about the intricacies of anchoring...more power to you...just remember, not all of us live in Boise.
John, I like the "load of crap" comment...and the resident drunk allusion too. However, not all of us are sissy water sailors...some of us actually sail on man water. I would never "beach" my boat where I sail...it would be beaten to shreads overnight. Maybe where you sail you can beach it and sit out at night and watch the little beavers swim by...but here it's not possible. If you choose to remain ignorant about the intricacies of anchoring...more power to you...just remember, not all of us live in Boise.
Yes But
It really looks to me like a lot of the techical data is for boats that can't be pulled out of the water. How many Mac owners choose to anchor out in a blow? Most will be tied to the dock or back on the trailer headed home. Also, I don't beach the boat for the night, too much troubles with the beavers big (and I mean Big) brother, the bear. Actually I am a sissy, but that is why I feel that one should go with what works, not some theoretical BS about wind gradient and windage, your boat is what it is. Are you gonna cut off parts of the boat to reduce profile? Whatever, now I shall never know what it is like to sail man water. I have been shamed. I also would like to see you fill out the formulae on your reference pages after you have drunk a lot. I mean accurately and meaningfully. I believe a lot of the BS on your reference was arrived at backwards, by that I mean someone observed an anchoring phenomena, and then made up a bunch of crap to explain what anyone with a set of eyes and a brain could see if they took the time to watch their boat. John S I drink AFTER I anchor
It really looks to me like a lot of the techical data is for boats that can't be pulled out of the water. How many Mac owners choose to anchor out in a blow? Most will be tied to the dock or back on the trailer headed home. Also, I don't beach the boat for the night, too much troubles with the beavers big (and I mean Big) brother, the bear. Actually I am a sissy, but that is why I feel that one should go with what works, not some theoretical BS about wind gradient and windage, your boat is what it is. Are you gonna cut off parts of the boat to reduce profile? Whatever, now I shall never know what it is like to sail man water. I have been shamed. I also would like to see you fill out the formulae on your reference pages after you have drunk a lot. I mean accurately and meaningfully. I believe a lot of the BS on your reference was arrived at backwards, by that I mean someone observed an anchoring phenomena, and then made up a bunch of crap to explain what anyone with a set of eyes and a brain could see if they took the time to watch their boat. John S I drink AFTER I anchor
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