Anchor Scope Illustrated

Feb 6, 1998
11,701
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Having been asked the question over and over it seems a lot of boaters do not have a good grasp of anchoring scope or what relationship it has to your anchor on the sea bed.

For this article I wanted to put scope into pictures. I used a short piece of aluminum to represent an anchor shank, some 12 GA finely stranded wire, my work bench and an upright jig marked off in inches to represent the water depth or bow height of the boat and black tape to represent every foot of rode. The depth was set to 12" or 12' by scale.

I used a scale of 1" = 1', or 1 inch equals 1 foot, because this was simple. The aluminum anchor shank, at this scale from pivot to rode connection point, matched my 35 pound CQR and represents about 32" long.

The wire was drawn tight to represent the rode straightening under a full load on a boat. Of course with 300+ feet of rode approaching infinite scope is nearly impossible but this is relative and illustrative only.

Most boaters only measure scope along the rode length so I therefore did not include the anchor shank length. This is why the 1:1 scope you'll see is not vertical.

To measure the angle I used my angle cube that I use for woodworking. This is a highly accurate device though very, very sensitive. I was not and am not concerned about the small fractions .05 etc. it may be off but more about the general angle to the whole number. I tried very hard to be gentle when setting the cube on the shank so as not to disturb the angle of the rode.

The shank was designed to sit 100% flush with the bench but an anchor would be buried and depending upon the design the shank might too be buried. The bottom line is the angle the rode puts on the shank at a given ratio.

Please note that this is a ratio so the scale does not matter and the angle of the rode at 7:1 would be the same if we were talking 300 feet of rode at 7:1 or 8 feet of rode at 7:1.
The Test Jig




The depth jig is marked off in inches to 12" tall. The jig simply slides along the bench to set the scope ratio. Once the desired scope was set the wire was drawn tight.
The Depth Jig



This is my angle cube designed for use on a table saw or other woodworking tools to determine the angle of a blade or fence. The cube was zeroed to the bench before each measurement was taken to ensure it was as close to accurate as can be possible.
Zero The Angle Cube




Here we go. This is what a 1:1 scope looks like if you did not include the length of the anchor shank. As mentioned earlier this aluminum shank represents the length of my 35 pound CQR to scale. A true 1:1 would be vertical but the extra length allows some angle to the scope.

Scope is figured as 1 times the depth from your bow chock to the ocean floor plus accounting for tide changes and what the actual depth will be at high tide.. So for a 5:1 scope with 10 feet to your bow from the bottom you'd need 50' of rode or 5 X 10' = 50'. 7:1 would be 7 X 10' = 70' of rode. If your depth transducer is 1' below water and not calibrated for offset don't forget to add this into the calculation. Forgetting to add in bow height is most common and can make a fairly big difference if you leave it out. In deep water shorter scopes can be used and often are.
Depth Jig


Again, I have not included the anchor shank as part of our rode length so the angle applied to the anchor in this scenario is 52 degrees at a 1:1.
1:1 Scope Angle = 52 Degrees




Here's what 2:1 looks like and the angle on the anchor shank has dropped tremendously by going from 1 X depth to 2 X depth.
2:1 Scope


As you can see by going from 1:1 to 2:1 scope we have nearly cut our shank angle in half to just about 26 degrees. Still not a scope I'd sleep well on with any anchor.
2:1 Scope Angle = 26 Degrees




Here's 3:1 scope..
3:1 Scope


At 3:1 we certainly don't cut the shank angle in half, like 1:1 to 2:1, but we do lose about 9 degrees of shank angle by going from 2:1 to 3:1
3:1 Scope Angle = 17 Degrees




Here's the visual of 4:1 scope.
4:1 Scope


4:1 scope equals roughly 13 degrees of anchor shank angle to the ocean floor.
4:1 Scope Angle = 13 Degrees




Here's the visual on 5:1 scope.
5:1 Scope


At a 5:1 ratio we are now down to approximately a 10 degree anchor shank angle pull. Many boaters rely on 4:1 or 5:1 in tight anchorages in benign conditions but some have ridden out severe weather on nothing more than 5:1 with the right anchor.
5:1 Scope Angle = 10 Degrees




Here's the 6:1 scope visual..
6:1 Scope




Going from 5:1 to 6:1 you lose roughly another 2 degrees of anchor shank angle.
6:1 Scope = 8 Degree Angle




Here's the 7:1 scope visual..
7:1 Scope


As you can see as the scope gets longer the law of diminishing returns applies to the angle of attack. Going from 5:1 to 6:1 we lost two degrees but from 6:1 to 7:1 only 1 degree. At this point the rode is pulling fairly close to the ocean floor and the angle is what most any well designed anchor can and should be able to handle.
7:1 Scope = 7 Degree Angle





Here's the visual for 8:1 scope..
8:1 Scope



We lost roughly another degree going from 7:1 to 8:1. Keep in mind this is a lot of rode for very little return in shank angle and you are increasing your swing radius dramatically.

There is nothing wrong with more scope but just be sure you have the swing room to do it. As you continue on out in rode length the changes in angle become smaller and smaller and this is why 7:1 is the generally advised scope for anchoring when you need good holding power. In tighter places a 5:1 or 4:1 can work but the angle on the anchor shank clearly becomes more upright the shorter you go with scope.
8:1 Scope Angle = 6 Degrees
 
Jun 9, 2004
963
Hunter 40.5 Bayfield, WI
Maine Sail-
I love this! I seldom go less than 7:1 at anchor but I have never thought to factor in my bow height when figuring scope. While I had always believed longer scope was better than short it is interesting to see how there is not much to be gained by going 8:1. Thanks for the visual-it is very helpful.

POATL
 
Aug 26, 2007
268
Hunter 41DS Ventura, California
Hey Maine,

Excellent visual presentation!

But:
How about a rode which has 25/50/X feet of chain attached? Seems to me that the rode angle would be zero until the force exerted by the boat on the rode was sufficient to lift the entire chain off the bottom which should have a significant effect on holding power/scope required for a given situation.
 
Jan 4, 2006
7,165
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
I Don't believe it for a Minute .........................

........................ nobody has a workbench top that clean :)
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
Indysailor:

As you can see MS is a very sick person. His boat, his shop.... Do you think he sleeps in pressed PJ's? I believe he does and his wife probably irons the sheets.

I am always amazed what interesting projects he finds himself doing. It is a good thing he does not live in a warm/dry climate, he would be out sailing when he needs to keep us well informed and amazed at his analysis of these subjects. :)
 
May 11, 2005
3,431
Seidelman S37 Slidell, La.
Thanks Maine

Again very well done, and well illustrated. I have always wondered why many are so unaware of the problems a short scope can cause. One thing you don't hear mentioned a lot is the effect tide has on anchor scope. On the gulf coast it isn't a bid deal, where we only have on average 1 or 2 foot tides. Georgia, and the Carolinas, where a 6 or 8 foot tide is not uncommon is a totally different story. Anchoring there with a 6 or 8 to one scope, in fairly shallow water, could lead to a surprise if you anchored up on a low tide. I never think much about scope, or how much rode I have out. What I do is look at the angle of the rode from the bow. From your diagrams, it is obvious that my normal scope is 8 or 10 to one. If it's not nearly flat, I let out more. I would much rather feel safe and sleep well, as opposed to worrying about having out more rode than I may need, and having to pull the extra back in.
 
Jun 3, 2004
890
Hunter 34 Toronto, Ontario Canada
Re: Thanks Maine

Nicely done MS- but I believe you have a special "clean shop" you use for this kind of photo shoot and nothing else! It is just to put the rest of us to shame!! :)
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,701
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Oh c'mon my shop is not usually that clean, I wish it was though. That bench & wall are brand new as I just remodeled the shop in February and blew out a wall to make it bigger. The bench does have a few coats of polyurethane on it though to help it hold up & clean up slightly better...:D
 
Nov 9, 2008
1,338
Pearson-O'Day 290 Portland Maine
MaineSail,

Nice demo. As I was perusing the photo's my years as an R&D lab tech kicked in and I stared to wonder if there was a good way not only to show the scopes, but also demonstrate the varying degrees of effectiveness with a small dynamometer or a simple fish scale. Not sure how that would work.

Oh, yeah, nice bench! There must be a lot or room in a Sailcraft 36T!

Keep'm Com'n!

Don
 
Jan 4, 2006
262
Catalina 36 MKII Buford, Ga.
Thanks for another very useful report. The visual reference was a really good illustration. I had to laugh as it clearly demonstrates why we should just move when a powerboater anchors to close with a short scope and the wrong anchor.:eek:
By the way, after seeing pictures of your bilge, I didn't expect anything less for your workbench.
 
Sep 25, 2008
544
Bristol 43.3 Perth Amboy
Great Illustration

This is great Maine Sail. There is no substitute for enough scope and then a little extra!!
 
Apr 8, 2010
1,606
Frers 33 41426 Westport, CT
Hey Maine,

Excellent visual presentation!

But:
How about a rode which has 25/50/X feet of chain attached? Seems to me that the rode angle would be zero until the force exerted by the boat on the rode was sufficient to lift the entire chain off the bottom which should have a significant effect on holding power/scope required for a given situation.
My understanding is that unless the anchor holds hard, and you have enough force on the boat to lift all the chain up in a straight line as pictured here, your effective scope is infinite, even if you only have 2:1 out. This is why people with all chain can often get away with less scope (I've often heard 3:1 for normal conditions, and 5:1 for rougher, but not storm, conditions when using all chain), because the weight of the heavy chain will often make that angle 0

After I set the anchor, I always put the engine in reverse at idle speed until the boat comes to a stop, then (still in reverse) slowly add throttle until I am around 50% cruise power. If I still don't drag, I feel I'm safe.

This past new years in the BVI, there were a few anchorages that I couldn't get the hook to hold after 5-6 tries, so I went and found another spot, or picked up a mooring if it was available.
 
Feb 1, 2007
75
Auckland NZ
My understanding is that unless the anchor holds hard, and you have enough force on the boat to lift all the chain up in a straight line as pictured here, your effective scope is infinite, even if you only have 2:1 out.
That is usually the case; an adequate anchor of adequate size in half decent holding will sustain enough force to all but straighten any reasonably sized chain.

Advice to use shorter scopes "because of all chain" or whatever is really off the mark. Chain does not have a very useful impact of the angle of pull and therefore possible anchor performance - with the exception of deep water where a long length of chain, imagine 300' in 100' of water, will make a significant difference.

MS's pictures show the rode angles if completely taut. This isn't likely or even possible with chain but you can come very close, especially in shallow water / typical depths, so close that it's perfectly reasonable to talk about it in the terms he is.

As MS illustrates, the reduction in the angle of pull rapidly reduces until the returns from increases in scope are quite small. The sweet spot is around 8:1 and there's extremely little point in ever using more than 10:1.
 
Apr 8, 2010
1,606
Frers 33 41426 Westport, CT
when using all chain, doesn't the weight of the chain give an additional shock absorber factor in lifting the chain off the bottom before it ever gets taught, and thus ease the load on the anchor?

Assuming anchoring depth of 40 feet or greater, for most boats wouldn't that mean that only in the most extreme cases (40+kts) will the typical all chain be pulled off the ground and taught?

I'm not trying to suggest than 5:1 scope or less is always enough if you have all chain, just that in normal conditions for overnight anchoring it probably isn't necessary to go beyond 5:1...

I know one old salt in the caribbean that, unless there is a storm blowing, always lets out the greater of 3:1 or 75', backs down on it, then lets out 5:1 if the holding is bad.

Since on my boat I only have a short length of chain between my rode and and anchor (I intend on adding 10' more this season), I always go for at least 6:1, and try for 8:1 if swing allows.
 
Feb 1, 2007
75
Auckland NZ
when using all chain, doesn't the weight of the chain give an additional shock absorber factor in lifting the chain off the bottom before it ever gets taught, and thus ease the load on the anchor?
That faux "shock absorber" disappears in the same weather that will straighten the scope out; i.e. when you most need it. You can only get genuine always-present shock absorption from rope / dedicated snubbers.

Assuming anchoring depth of 40 feet or greater, for most boats wouldn't that mean that only in the most extreme cases (40+kts) will the typical all chain be pulled off the ground and taught?
Yes, but you shouldn't be at much risk of dragging in less wind.

I'm not trying to suggest than 5:1 scope or less is always enough if you have all chain, just that in normal conditions for overnight anchoring it probably isn't necessary to go beyond 5:1...
It's not, but that's because 1) 5:1 pulled taut in good holding is often quite adequate anyway and 2) you can deploy more scope if necessary and 5:1 tends to be more manageable/convenient.

I know one old salt in the caribbean that, unless there is a storm blowing, always lets out the greater of 3:1 or 75', backs down on it, then lets out 5:1 if the holding is bad.
Generally it's best practice to set the anchor at the same scope you'll be using. Less scope will result in a poorer quality set. Higher scope would result in false confidence in the anchor's ability to set/re-set.

Since on my boat I only have a short length of chain between my rode and and anchor (I intend on adding 10' more this season), I always go for at least 6:1, and try for 8:1 if swing allows.
Sounds fine. You only need as much chain as you need.
 

rfrye1

.
Jun 15, 2004
589
Hunter H376 San Diego
It must still be "winter" in Maine. And you have a lot of idle time on your hands (lol). Actually its good to see those angles up close. I usually try to go at 5:1 minimum, mainly because I was always told to. Now I know.
 

geehaw

.
May 15, 2010
231
O-day 25 shoal keel Valdez
If i wanted 7:1 to anchor I would have to have a bigger boat, much bigger. Do you sail MS? when do you have the time?
 
Nov 22, 2008
3,562
Endeavour 32 Portland, Maine
Generally it's best practice to set the anchor at the same scope you'll be using.
In most Maine bottoms, I find that I get a quicker initial bite with my Delta (not particularly sharp) at shorter scope. I then let myself back down to my planned scope and set. For a boat the size of mine with chain and rope rode, I find that jerking the rode seems to give me a better set than backing with the engine. I can feel the anchor working in and often tell if it's just hooked on a kelp root that I'm pulling loose. Evidently not many people do this because I see cocktail drinkers staring and pointing. Backing with the engine is primarily to help me sleep better at night and I don't bother with it if anchoring under sail.
 

jfmid

.
Jan 31, 2010
152
Oday 27 LE Manahawkin, NJ
Fantastic visual explanation. One question that may or may not be simple. Smaller boats dont usually carry all chain so what in your opinion is the correct "range" for the chain length in combo with the rode? Is there a magic number/ratio of chain to rode or is it insignificant? If it is insignificant then should we consider all rode and loose the chain? I was under the impression that the chain does add considerable holding power provided of course that the scope is correct. Perhaps my assumption is unfounded.