Ok, so I'm fixated on anchors right now! Anyway, how do you H33 owners with anchor rollers install them? I know Sam built a sort of platform for his, but I don't think I want that much work. How do you install without removing one of the mooring cleats or chafe guards?
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Sam Lust
Kingsprit?
The kingsprit advertised on the home page sure does look mighty interesting. One of those "why didn't I think of that" things. (Actually I did, but I was thinking welded stainless monstrosity and lost interest in that direction, so ended up with a good size mahogany platform that serves well, about $150 in materials if I recall.) The Kingsprit looks like it would take less than an hour to bolt on. I'm curious about the price and how it would look and function on a 33. Why don't you buy one and let us know? (Don't you love how free and easy I am with your money?)
The kingsprit advertised on the home page sure does look mighty interesting. One of those "why didn't I think of that" things. (Actually I did, but I was thinking welded stainless monstrosity and lost interest in that direction, so ended up with a good size mahogany platform that serves well, about $150 in materials if I recall.) The Kingsprit looks like it would take less than an hour to bolt on. I'm curious about the price and how it would look and function on a 33. Why don't you buy one and let us know? (Don't you love how free and easy I am with your money?)
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Terry Arnold
H33 bow roller
Jim, Tim Schaaf's response to your earlier posting on anchors pretty much sums up the dilemma of the H33. There is just not enough space on the stem of the boat to fit a bow roller in without moving around some of the existing hardware. Tim seems to have taken a common sense practical approach that involved only moving the cleats and leads around, much easier and cheaper and prettier than bowsprit appendages that mess up the fine lines of the H33 stem.
Jim, Tim Schaaf's response to your earlier posting on anchors pretty much sums up the dilemma of the H33. There is just not enough space on the stem of the boat to fit a bow roller in without moving around some of the existing hardware. Tim seems to have taken a common sense practical approach that involved only moving the cleats and leads around, much easier and cheaper and prettier than bowsprit appendages that mess up the fine lines of the H33 stem.
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Trevor
Kingsprit
A lot of older Catalinas have the same setup... I recently went with the Kingsprit by Land2c. I initially was worried about the looks if the thing, but the stainless matches the pulpit somewhat and I think it looks just fine. It looks like it belongs, anyway. Seems to work great and I didn't have to modify the existing cleats... the anchor even uses the existing little rollers to help support the anchor. I drilled holes in the shanks of both 33lb. and 44lb. Bruce anchors (I only bring one or the other, depending on the length of trip) to utilize the holding pin. This was definitely the best solution for me. For more info, try posting in the guest forum on ground tackle. Good luck! Trevor
A lot of older Catalinas have the same setup... I recently went with the Kingsprit by Land2c. I initially was worried about the looks if the thing, but the stainless matches the pulpit somewhat and I think it looks just fine. It looks like it belongs, anyway. Seems to work great and I didn't have to modify the existing cleats... the anchor even uses the existing little rollers to help support the anchor. I drilled holes in the shanks of both 33lb. and 44lb. Bruce anchors (I only bring one or the other, depending on the length of trip) to utilize the holding pin. This was definitely the best solution for me. For more info, try posting in the guest forum on ground tackle. Good luck! Trevor
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john simon
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Ed Schenck
John, can't be anything else.
Mr. Cherubini was the architect for Hunter in the late 70's and early 80's. Hopefully Mr. Cherubini II will add a comment or two here.
Mr. Cherubini was the architect for Hunter in the late 70's and early 80's. Hopefully Mr. Cherubini II will add a comment or two here.
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Fred Moore
ways to tell
it will not have R&B rigging. It will have sleek lines. It will sail very well. It will feel safer in heavy sea's. The top of the cabin will have good lines that seem to match the lines of the hull. The teak is teak not plastic. The transom will be rounded for good safe handeling in following sea's not square with a swim platform. It will not look like a quickly build boat. I'll bet other will add to my list. From the year your was properly designed by the man.. FWIW.. Fred H30, 1980 "Harvey"
it will not have R&B rigging. It will have sleek lines. It will sail very well. It will feel safer in heavy sea's. The top of the cabin will have good lines that seem to match the lines of the hull. The teak is teak not plastic. The transom will be rounded for good safe handeling in following sea's not square with a swim platform. It will not look like a quickly build boat. I'll bet other will add to my list. From the year your was properly designed by the man.. FWIW.. Fred H30, 1980 "Harvey"
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Ben Braden
Hole in anchor locker
Myself, I have a hunk of teak bolted around the forestay to act as a short bowsprit and has plenty of room for an anchor roller. Yet on another h33 slant nose here in Seattle the owner cut a hole in the side of the anchor locker up front. since the locker itself is water tight it passed a surveyors inspection. I don't know that I like new holes in the boat but this sure did look handy
Myself, I have a hunk of teak bolted around the forestay to act as a short bowsprit and has plenty of room for an anchor roller. Yet on another h33 slant nose here in Seattle the owner cut a hole in the side of the anchor locker up front. since the locker itself is water tight it passed a surveyors inspection. I don't know that I like new holes in the boat but this sure did look handy
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