Anchor Paraphernalia

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Sep 25, 2008
2,288
C30 Event Horizon Port Aransas
Since I have pressurized fresh water do I need a wash down pump or do I just need to run a line with a sprayer? Are wash down pumps pumping fresh water or salt water?

When you snub a chain, is that a device or just a procedure? Basically how is it done?

Is there an existing fiberglass hump I can glass to my anchor locker door, or do I need to make one from scratch?

Fiberglass hump= the little hole with a cowl over it to let the chain and rode out of the anchor locker with out opening the door to the anchor locker
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,132
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
1. saltwater, why would u waste fresh water on the anchor chain? Try anchoring first to see if there's lotsa mud before you worry about this, unless you have already.

2. Snub - you use the cleat, tie the line off and motor over the anchor with the rode cleated. Or you get the rode vertical and back off, different ways to do it. Try this for different techniques: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5064.0.html

3. HUMP? dump the concept, you have an anchor locker door, use it that's what it's there for.
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
You can just get a stainless one instead of fiberglass. Search for a deck chain pipe. You can use either, but usually a lot of water is required and people use salt.
 
Jan 4, 2006
282
West Coast
Improvements, Improvements

You could run a hose forward, but you might find the fresh water pressure pump inadequate for the job, in terms of flow rate/pressure to satisfactorily wash off an muddy anchor or foredeck. But I agree: this is not a job for drinking water.

Snubbing a chain can refer to two different things: one is a chock that is fastened to the deck into which a link of chain is inserted to take the load, like a deck cleat will take the load from a nylon rode. The other snubber is typically a length of nylon rope, one end attached to the boat, the other uses a hook to grab a link of the all-chain rode a few feet off the bow, to take direct shock loads off a windlass, leaving the last few feet of chain slack, The snubber, attached to a fore cleat, eases shock loads by stretching as wind and tide load the rode.

They are often used in conjunction.

You might be able to find an off the shelf hawse hole and buckler (cover). I've read of individuals using wooden stoppers and even modeling clay as bucklers while underway. A custom-made hawse hole is certainly a within a DIY's reach, but I'd think would have to be thought out carefully before the drilling/cutting started
 

RAD

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Jun 3, 2004
2,330
Catalina 30 Bay Shore, N.Y.
Anchor wash down should be salt water as others have said, I installed my wash down outlet outlet inside the locker in my cockpit and drag the hose forward when needed (also very handy for water fights), the hose is stored in the same place and as far as installation goes it was much easier than trying to get a hose to the anchor locker.
 
G

Guest

Boating

My wash down system consists of a free two gallon plastic bucket with a wire handle to which I tied a lanyard. Unlimited sea water supply, never breaks down, no hoses, wires, pumps, fittings, switches, etc. Works every time when the anchor and chain comes up with mud.

Snubber?! No need for one unless you have all chain rode. If all chain, drop and set anchor. Snubber consists of a ten to twenty foot piece of 1/2 to 5/8th inch three strand or double braid nylon rope. The working end has the special type of hook that is used to connect to a chain link. Connect the hook to a link a couple of feet off the water. Raise the hook up until you have a nice droop in the chain rode, then tie off the bitter end to a bow cleat. As the boat pitches and roles with wave action, the snubber line will absorb any shock as a result of a taut anchor rode. This shock absorber helps to protect the windlass and other anchoring components from premature stress failure.

Terry Cox
 
Sep 25, 2008
2,288
C30 Event Horizon Port Aransas
"I have never quite understood this thinking. You have the wolds best windlass for yanking a stuck anchor out, your boat. Simply get the rode vertical, snub it on a cleat, put her in forward"-Maine Sail
So when he says snub it on a cleat, I shouldn't link the chain directly to a piece of metal on the deck, I should have some sort of shock absorber to break the anchor free?
Anchor Down seems to suggest that hooking it directly to a fixture on the deck will be OK. I would think it would be OK since I would only be pulling straight up on the chain to break the anchor free.

Stu- I have anchored in the bay twice, with two different anchors. The first thing that was VERY evident was, I needed a bow roller, and secondly I needed a wash down pump. The mud was really sticky. And with out a bow roller I had it all over me.
I didn't know if people used fresh water to rinse the salt off the anchor and chain like flushing out an engine with fresh water.

Also, the cowl thing I am refering to is not a deck chain pipe. If you look in the 'manual widlass' post you can see the bow of maine sail's boat. The anchor locker door it's self has a cowl made on to the top so the rode and chain can flow out of the locker without opening the door, and probably more importantly I can store my claw on the bow roller and the chain will go into the locker with out the door being ajar with the chain holding it open part of the way. Until I find something or make something, I will jsut have to cut a notch out so the chain can be in the locker and attached to the anchor on the roller.
 

Mulf

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Dec 2, 2003
400
Hunter 410 Chester, MD (Kent Island)
I tapped into the fresh water system...

...in our front head and plumbed a hose and hose faucet in the anchor locker. However, I have 3 50 gallon fresh water tanks, which is a lot of water, so this helps me empty the tanks more often during the season. Yes, the pressure could be better but it is adequate and the hose is a heck of a lot easier to use than the bucket on a line that I had used before plumbing the hose. I've also used the hose to wash off the dinghy after we haul it up and tie it on the foredeck. I suspect that when I retire and go cruising more I may replumb the source for my anchor washdown with a pump that can draw from the head inlet through hull, but unfortunately that's stilll a few years away.
 
G

guest

Anchoring

The snubber is used while at anchor with all chain rode, not for breaking loose or raising an anchor. While at anchor during an unsettled sea state the wind and/or current pressure upon the boat will cause the all chain rode to become taut. Chain rode does not stretch, so when the rode is taut and the several thousand pound boat pitches and roles at anchor the all chain rode will tend to jerk hard at whatever it is connected to. If a windlass or Samson post, the shock load will tear it right off the boat, thus the purpose of the snubber.

For example, if you have ever towed a vehicle with chain versus a nylon rope, you probably noticed the shock when you take up the slack with a chain tow line compared to nylon. same forces apply on the boat.

Terry Cox
 
Sep 25, 2008
2,288
C30 Event Horizon Port Aransas
My wash down system consists of a free two gallon plastic bucket with a wire handle to which I tied a lanyard. Unlimited sea water supply, never breaks down, no hoses, wires, pumps, fittings, switches, etc. Works every time when the anchor and chain comes up with mud.

Snubber?! No need for one unless you have all chain rode. If all chain, drop and set anchor. Snubber consists of a ten to twenty foot piece of 1/2 to 5/8th inch three strand or double braid nylon rope. The working end has the special type of hook that is used to connect to a chain link. Connect the hook to a link a couple of feet off the water. Raise the hook up until you have a nice droop in the chain rode, then tie off the bitter end to a bow cleat. As the boat pitches and roles with wave action, the snubber line will absorb any shock as a result of a taut anchor rode. This shock absorber helps to protect the windlass and other anchoring components from premature stress failure.

Terry Cox
I guess that's what it will be for me also, for now.
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,132
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
More Anchor questions

So when he says snub it on a cleat, I shouldn't link the chain directly to a piece of metal on the deck, I should have some sort of shock absorber to break the anchor free?

There are about three anchor topics going simultaneously on this board this week, and I'm sure you've read and replied on each one. In one of them I gave you a link to one of our C34 MB topics, which discussed my solution to the snubber, which was a chain hook tied to a short line, tied to a cleat. I've tried to help, but don't know what more to do, don't know if you read what I provide in response to your questions or not.

I'm still suggesting a book. And a visit to a full marina.
 
Sep 25, 2008
2,288
C30 Event Horizon Port Aransas
As I replied in the other post. I am looking for differnet options.

Old books are great but if you want to find out the best solution, on here is the place to ask. For example, I never even knew flange adapters existed, until I asked on here about sea cocks. I think those are a great addition to my boat. The books don't talk about those though.
 

Joe

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Jun 1, 2004
8,258
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
As I replied in the other post. I am looking for differnet options.

Old books are great but if you want to find out the best solution, on here is the place to ask. For example, I never even knew flange adapters existed, until I asked on here about sea cocks. I think those are a great addition to my boat. The books don't talk about those though.
There's nothing "new" about these topics. They're just new to you. Please, if you want to be a good sailor read the "old' books, written by "old" sailors. If you choose not to read the books, then at least take a look at articles like those offered on the Westmarine advisor. They're free... illustrated... and easy to read.

Invest in "The Annapolis Book of Seamanship" by John Rousmaniere. He's not that old... and you'll learn a lot that will take you a long way.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
If you want to learn a subject you must turn the television off and read every book you can find on the subject. People tell me "you should write a book" and my reply is that it has already been written by others. look to this vendor if you feel that you can't find a book that will round out you library . http://www.captainsnautical.com/9982/Nautical-Books.html
 
Dec 2, 2003
1,637
Hunter 376 Warsash, England --
To Snub an Anchor

Having dropped the anchor and paid out an amount of rode suitable for the anticipated depth and wind/wave strength one motors gently astern to stretch out the rode.
The rode is taken one turn round a deck bollard or cleat and the remainder held in the hand. As the rode tightens one 'snubs' the anchor to set it. i.e. one gently applies a resistance to the rode as it pays out and one should then feel the anchor set. This normally brings the boat to a halt, but if not one allows more rode out and tries again.
The reassuring jerk as the anchor sets is a nice feeling and indicates all is well.
Then, after making up the rode on its cleat, apply more revs in reverse and check by transits that the boat is not moving. If it will take the full reverse power then all to the good.

BTW a foot placed on the rode whilst doing this will enable one to feel any vibration caused by the anchor dragging. This is a good test at any time if one suspects the anchor is not holding.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,722
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
The snubber is used while at anchor with all chain rode, not for breaking loose or raising an anchor.

Terry Cox
Terry,

If you use one of the new gen anchors you will find that you will almost always need to "snub" or hook the chain to break it free from the bottom. There is no way I can break out my Rocna, in over 90% of my anchoring events, by hand. With my old CQR, sure, but not with my current anchor.

With any decent amount of chain, even a boat length, you would often need a way to grip the chain and "snub" it to break many of the newer designs out. Wrapping a chain around a cleat is not such a good idea so people often use snub lines or short snubbers.

Snubbers used with all chain rodes are significantly longer than a simple snub line as one would use on a boat with no windlass gypsy to wrap the chain around.

A snub line can be a short piece of line with a chain hook in one end used to snub the chain. It need not be any more than 12" long if you are only using it to break the anchor out, as you won't need the elongation or stretch. With an all chain rode snubber, used while anchored, you are looking for the stretch of the snubber to prevent serious shock loading.

I do not regularly use my all chain rode but on nearly every anchoring, in depths less than 80 feet, I need to break my anchor free by taking a wrap around my chain gypsy on the windlass then motoring forward over the nearly vertical anchor rode to break the anchor out. Doing this can be referred to as snubbing or making fast the rode and probably other terms I can not think of at the moment.



When you snub a chain, is that a device or just a procedure? Basically how is it done?
Scott,

Not to confuse but it can be both. The term "snub" as defined in Royce's Sailing Illustrated means to simply "check a rope suddenly". The Annapolis Book of Seamanship defines it as; "To wrap a line once around cleat or winch so most of its pull is absorbed.".

How ever you make fast the rode, or snub it, can certainly be deemed as snubbing. The device you would use to snub a line or rode can be called a snubber, snub line, chain stop, snub hook, windlass with positive locking mechanism or even a cleat. You don't have a windlass and I doubt a chain stop would fit the bow of a C-30 if I remember the layout correctly..

I don't think it necessarily has to be narrowly defined as used only with an all chain rode as you can snub any line or chain even ones not associated with anchoring. People snub dock lines all the time. I also snub my genny sheets around my winch when making sail adjustments...

My wash down pump is the ocean. I simply raise my anchor about 6 feet off the bottom then motor slowly, under 1 knot or so, out of the anchorage. Once clear of the anchorage I finish hoisting my anchor and nine times out of ten it is free and clear of mud. A bucket on a line and a rag work well too. I've had wash down pumps on boats but I invariably always seem to forget to flip the breaker on before weighing anchor and wound up doing the above anyway.;) It was kind of like having a windlass and never using it. I think the only time I used the Windlass on my old Catalina 310 was on the day the new owner had the surveyor on-board to test it.....
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
"Taking a turn" is another term for snubbing a line.
 
Feb 1, 2007
75
Auckland NZ
Since I have pressurized fresh water do I need a wash down pump or do I just need to run a line with a sprayer? Are wash down pumps pumping fresh water or salt water?
Salt, you can probably set-up a pump if you want one and don't have it already.

When you snub a chain, is that a device or just a procedure? Basically how is it done?
Are you using all-chain when you normally anchor? If not then this is mostly a redundant question, unless you need to snub the chain when you get to 1:1 scope and the anchor needs encouragement letting go of the seabed.

A snubber for shock absorption is as follows:
www.rocna.com/kb/Snubbers

To take the chain load off the windlass while freeing an anchor, or if you are using all-chain, then you need something like a chain stop:
www.rocna.com/kb/Chain_stops

You can use hooks or cleats etc but a dedicated stop is a superior and easier solution.

Fiberglass hump= the little hole with a cowl over it to let the chain and rode out of the anchor locker with out opening the door to the anchor locker
Not sure about this one, you might want to post some pics of your existing system, state the problem, and request suggested solutions.
 
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