I need to replace the anchor light on my 1980 Catalina 30. Even if I can locate the original parts not sure I would do that if something more efficient were available. So any one who has replaced the anchor light I would appreciated where you found a suitable replacement that will mount if possible on the existing setup.
anchor light replacement
- Thread starter rabnation
- Start date
- Status
Unfortunately, there are several different manufactures that Catalina used for some of these lights. You may have to send someone aloft and install a brand new anchor light up there.
One other suggestion is to re-run the wires inside of the mast while you are doing this.
One other suggestion is to re-run the wires inside of the mast while you are doing this.
After you figure out what you have up there i'd consider a LED retrofit. The anchor light is a big battery drain...plus you wont be going up the mast every few years to replace it.
-Steve
S/V Sonrisa
-Steve
S/V Sonrisa
You can still get a PERKO which matches the original anchor light.
Yes, LED would be better, but not a direct replacement and won't light the wind indicator on top if your instruments fail at night.
Yes, LED would be better, but not a direct replacement and won't light the wind indicator on top if your instruments fail at night.
Rab,
I just replaced my anchor light using my existing mount. I bought a series 25 masthead lite @ west marine for about $25.00. I purchased a polar star led light dimpled festoon allround white ($49.99 ouch). 1/10 the power draw (0.09amp) over incandescant bulbs plus it very bright.
The setup I have is a 1" aluminum tube mounted to the mast crane side with 2 bolts. afixed to the top is a conical block of teak. The wiring runs thru the tube and a hole thru the wood.
I have a pic of the area without the tube but you will get an idea of the mounting and see where the top has a half round cutout. The tube runs another 3" above the crane with the teak block pressed on it and secured by 2 screws. Note the top close off plate i attached to stop most rainwater getting in my mast. Email me at: captnron@tampabay.rr.com and I can show you my setup.
Bad Obsession was correct that there are different mounting configurations,
Hopfully you may have this setup.
C'ron
I just replaced my anchor light using my existing mount. I bought a series 25 masthead lite @ west marine for about $25.00. I purchased a polar star led light dimpled festoon allround white ($49.99 ouch). 1/10 the power draw (0.09amp) over incandescant bulbs plus it very bright.
The setup I have is a 1" aluminum tube mounted to the mast crane side with 2 bolts. afixed to the top is a conical block of teak. The wiring runs thru the tube and a hole thru the wood.
I have a pic of the area without the tube but you will get an idea of the mounting and see where the top has a half round cutout. The tube runs another 3" above the crane with the teak block pressed on it and secured by 2 screws. Note the top close off plate i attached to stop most rainwater getting in my mast. Email me at: captnron@tampabay.rr.com and I can show you my setup.
Bad Obsession was correct that there are different mounting configurations,
Hopfully you may have this setup.
C'ron
Found That Pic I Said I Have
Rab,
I figured how to send a pic with this reply. I always use the "quick reply" which is no good for attaching files. Check it out and let me know if this is what you have..
C'ron
Rab,
I figured how to send a pic with this reply. I always use the "quick reply" which is no good for attaching files. Check it out and let me know if this is what you have..
C'ron
Attachments
Bob,
Sorry to hear that. For both you & me. Do you know for sure something is not spiking the light circuit? Any instruments, etc. which may be causing a spike? I added an extra fused terminal block in my panel-back and re-ran all the panel switches to the fused block using lower rated fuses than the regular sized panel fuses for each circuit. I also put in a separate negative ground block just for these circuits. All my electronics are isolated. I used to blow fuses all the time in my panel. Since I separated these, especially the negative side, the problem went away.
Do you ever run your light with the battery charger and or the motor running at the same time? This can also be source of problems. I tyy to never mix any of these. I've also heard changing the battery selector switch with circuits on and engine running have been known to blow fuses.
Another sad note is that most of the stuff out there is junk. I hate when I have to buy anything made either in china or the design & materials are sub par. Plastic is for toys! I rejoice when it's made anywhere else.
Hope you find your problem.......
C,ron
Sorry to hear that. For both you & me. Do you know for sure something is not spiking the light circuit? Any instruments, etc. which may be causing a spike? I added an extra fused terminal block in my panel-back and re-ran all the panel switches to the fused block using lower rated fuses than the regular sized panel fuses for each circuit. I also put in a separate negative ground block just for these circuits. All my electronics are isolated. I used to blow fuses all the time in my panel. Since I separated these, especially the negative side, the problem went away.
Do you ever run your light with the battery charger and or the motor running at the same time? This can also be source of problems. I tyy to never mix any of these. I've also heard changing the battery selector switch with circuits on and engine running have been known to blow fuses.
Another sad note is that most of the stuff out there is junk. I hate when I have to buy anything made either in china or the design & materials are sub par. Plastic is for toys! I rejoice when it's made anywhere else.
Hope you find your problem.......
C,ron
From Dr. LED:
Internal circuitry provides for constant energy consumption, regardless of voltage fluctuations from the source (10 to 30 VDC), meaning no flickering and longer LED life..
Most all other 12v electronic items on your boat will be dead long before 30 volts...
In theory these lights should last a long time but there are complaints all over the sailing forums of pre-mature failures. Failures of $50.00, 50,000 hour "claimed life" bulbs, would be one thing if Dr. LED stood behind the product better than they do.I'd be willing to bet Bob didn't have more than 100 hours on his and that's a far cry from 50,000 hours..?
Both bulbs failed over winter storage. I unstep drop the mast ( is that correct grammar?) and store it on saw horses. Somehow water intruded the sealed bulbs and caused their failure. They were both working at the end of the season. Before I stepped the mast in the spring I check all the lighting and found I had lost the anchor light (the one that looks rusty on the inside) and a stern light (half the led's lit and the other half did not). Maine, you might be right about the 100 hours because we being somewhat newbies rarely sailed at night. We did anchor out quite a bit. Unfortunately you are correct about Dr. LED's willingness to stand behind their products. I had a terrible experience and will never buy from them again.
I bought a NaviLED 360° Anchor Light by Hella Marine that I plan on mounting before she is stepped this spring. I might even replace all the wiring in the mast while I'm at it. I can't believe they're getting 100.00 for this light when I got it at the end of last season for 39.00.
I bought a NaviLED 360° Anchor Light by Hella Marine that I plan on mounting before she is stepped this spring. I might even replace all the wiring in the mast while I'm at it. I can't believe they're getting 100.00 for this light when I got it at the end of last season for 39.00.
LOL. If I am not in a busy port I use my "Other" anchor light. It is one of the LED lights that you can buy from Lowes that you stick in the ground. I made a very slight modification to it and leave it up on my backstay. The light is charged by solar power. It also has a day night sensor so that it cuts on when it gets dark. This is great if you are away from the boat in the evening and don't get back to dark (at least you have an anchor light on).
Total cost.....$30 for 6 of them! I gave a few of them away to friends.
Total cost.....$30 for 6 of them! I gave a few of them away to friends.
Back in the early 80's when we were living aboard our Coronado 35 cruising the ICW, we just hung a kerosone lantern (windproof). We set it up like hanging a windscoop from the front hatch (spinnaker halyard and bungies between the mast and forestay). No doubt in the beginning I used to wonder on windy nights at an anchorage if this baby would fall, spill a trail of liquid fire on the deck or set the anchorage on fire! It never failed us and worked just fine for years. For many cruisers before solar charge systems and power saving bulbs made it big, the kerosene latern was the choice for anchoring. You would mostly see them hanging at the rear of the boom, which was enough for any approaching vessel to see. Lanterns are not bad as a backup either these days or when your in the mood for firelight. Heck, they once lite the way for hundreds of years.
Bob
'88 Mark II
Lake Lanier, GA
Bob
'88 Mark II
Lake Lanier, GA
If one were indeed to hang something of the boom (solar lamp of some sort), is there a legal issue? I plan on doing some over-nights on the boat and am looking for a good backup to the mast-head light.
If I wanted to go led all the way around (navs, steaming, deck).... is it an easy fit?
Thanks.
If I wanted to go led all the way around (navs, steaming, deck).... is it an easy fit?
Thanks.
You don't have to have the anchor light on the top of the mast. It needs to be visible 360 degrees around the boat and it needs to be visible for a certain distance. That is all the regulations on those.
Bad O is correct, the anchor light does not have to be at the mast head.
Technically as I understand it, and was confirmed by the USCG, it's 354 degree visibility. The COLREG's are a little unclear about this, like many things. The light itself must be a 360 degree light but the visibility of it must comply with the CFR paragraph below:
Here's the COLREG's wording:
(e)"All-round light" means a light showing an unbroken light over an arc of the horizon of 360 degrees.
It does not make clear that the "light" itself need to be visible to all 360 degrees just that the light itself needs to be showing an unbroken light over an arc of the horizon of 360.
"CFR 33 Title 84.17 Horizontal Sectors:
b) All-round lights shall be so located as not to be obscured by masts, topmasts or structures within angular sectors of more than 6 degrees, except anchor lights prescribed in Rule 30, which need not be placed at an impracticable height above the hull, and the all-round white light described in Rule 23(d), which may not be obscured at all."
and
"(c) If it is impracticable to comply with paragraph (b) of this section by exhibiting only one all-round light, two all-round lights shall be used suitably positioned or screened to appear, as far as practicable, as one light at a minimum distance of one nautical mile."
You can always revert to the 354 degree rule but beyond that anchor lights do not have to be placed any higher beyond the hull than "is practicable". Meaning it could likely be obscured by a mast and still be totally legal if it was not practical to climb to the top of the mast to place an anchor light if using say an oil lamp.
To get a more detailed understanding of the COLREG's, when it is not totally clear, I usually revert to the Code of Federal Regulations which are the "rules behind the rules"..
I have an anchor light mounted to my radar pole on the stern. I have at least 358 degrees, or more, of visibility with it as I have circled in my dinghy at night and can hardly find a break in the light. Not only that it lights up my bimini and boat around it so it can be seen very well as you get within 1/8 of a mile. I still keep one at the mast head too but rarely use it as I feel much safer with the radar pole anchor light.
- Status