I am commisioning a new 326 in Mystic. They will have it ready for me and I will pick it up next week. A couple of anchor questions come to mind. 1. Is the equipment supplied adequate? 2. What have others found to be the best type of anchor for this area - Long Island Sound and RI waters. 3. Is there a type of reliable/affordable hand operated (not powered)winch to mount in the anchor locker to assist in raising the ancor? Thanks for your help on this Ed
- Status
Answer #3 is no.
A manual windlass is VERY reliable but some would say NOT affordable. They are very nearly the same price as the electric. I was lucky enough to find a new one on E-Bay at about half price. As seen in the Related Link below they will work nicely in the locker. My manual(Simpson Lawrence 510) is a little smaller than the one pictured.
A manual windlass is VERY reliable but some would say NOT affordable. They are very nearly the same price as the electric. I was lucky enough to find a new one on E-Bay at about half price. As seen in the Related Link below they will work nicely in the locker. My manual(Simpson Lawrence 510) is a little smaller than the one pictured.
I would change the anchor supplied
Unless things have changed dramatically in 7 years, you will get a Danforth style knockoff. Replace it with a 20lb hi tensile Danforth and add about 20 ft of chain. You'll sleep much better at anchor.For a second anchor, I chose a CQR, but the Delta or Claw would probably work as well.
Unless things have changed dramatically in 7 years, you will get a Danforth style knockoff. Replace it with a 20lb hi tensile Danforth and add about 20 ft of chain. You'll sleep much better at anchor.For a second anchor, I chose a CQR, but the Delta or Claw would probably work as well.
I'll Go Agaist The Grain Here
..and suggest that you try what comes with it first. First, tho, think about a powered windlass again, especially if you can get it now with the commissioning. If not, just try the stock gear. Second, purchase some snap blocks of the appropriate size to lead the rode back to a winch. That will save your back. Did so for years. Third, if no windlass, buy an aluminum Fortress anchor, good rode and six feet of coated chain. It will reduce the weight a lot. DISCLAIMERS: The Danforth-type manufacturers don't recommend bunches of chain and I used a small amount for years, just fine. In fact, NONE on the stern anchor. Everything set and held well, even in some very exciting conditions. Proper scope is important. If you are in sand or mud, the Danforth-type is great. The Fortress even changes its fluke angle for mud. If you are in rock or coral, different story. If you do go with a windlass, chain is a lot more convenient. And, the factory anchor is a darn good one, but it is heavy. All this based on SoCal experience that may be different. Good luck, Rick D.
..and suggest that you try what comes with it first. First, tho, think about a powered windlass again, especially if you can get it now with the commissioning. If not, just try the stock gear. Second, purchase some snap blocks of the appropriate size to lead the rode back to a winch. That will save your back. Did so for years. Third, if no windlass, buy an aluminum Fortress anchor, good rode and six feet of coated chain. It will reduce the weight a lot. DISCLAIMERS: The Danforth-type manufacturers don't recommend bunches of chain and I used a small amount for years, just fine. In fact, NONE on the stern anchor. Everything set and held well, even in some very exciting conditions. Proper scope is important. If you are in sand or mud, the Danforth-type is great. The Fortress even changes its fluke angle for mud. If you are in rock or coral, different story. If you do go with a windlass, chain is a lot more convenient. And, the factory anchor is a darn good one, but it is heavy. All this based on SoCal experience that may be different. Good luck, Rick D.
Manual Windlass Solution
Prior to my current boat (H376), my previous boat (Catalina 30) anchoring system consisted of 20' chain with nylon rode and danforth anchor. Worked great for s. cal mud bottoms. My solution for easy retrival was simple, bring my 19 yr old son along! All I had to do was keep him fed well! Now 3 years later, he's very busy with school and I'm glad I have an electric windlass on the H376. Now if I can only figure out an easy way to get the rode into the anchor locker without binding in the hawsepipe, which is a problem on the 376.
Prior to my current boat (H376), my previous boat (Catalina 30) anchoring system consisted of 20' chain with nylon rode and danforth anchor. Worked great for s. cal mud bottoms. My solution for easy retrival was simple, bring my 19 yr old son along! All I had to do was keep him fed well! Now 3 years later, he's very busy with school and I'm glad I have an electric windlass on the H376. Now if I can only figure out an easy way to get the rode into the anchor locker without binding in the hawsepipe, which is a problem on the 376.
Fortress Experiences
The first thing which I did when we got our 35.5 was to get a Fortress danforth and 35 feet of chain which has served us well. It holds great in mud bottoms but occasionally we just can't get it to grab particularly with hard packed sand and pebbles which if I remember Long Island Sound there is plenty. We also carry an original danforth of the heavy variety which grabs immediately when the Fortress doesn't, but it is heavy. I don't have any experience with plows so I can't comment.
The first thing which I did when we got our 35.5 was to get a Fortress danforth and 35 feet of chain which has served us well. It holds great in mud bottoms but occasionally we just can't get it to grab particularly with hard packed sand and pebbles which if I remember Long Island Sound there is plenty. We also carry an original danforth of the heavy variety which grabs immediately when the Fortress doesn't, but it is heavy. I don't have any experience with plows so I can't comment.
- Status