As I attempted to close my furling the line snapped, its no surprise considering it's original equipment to my 1989 30 hunter, and mostly layes on the deck never really drying out. This is a problem because it seems this line needs to be spliced, which seems next to impossible for me. Is there something I'm missing someway the furling comes apart and I could buy the line already spliced. If not who does this kind of work and how much could I expect to pay. Furthermore beside the reasons stated earlier to what lead to the snap I feel that the furling takes a great deal of force to turn, what kind of maintenance is typical for this. If I most splice a line is there one I could use that would be more similar to a dock line with less strands? thank you
- Status
Splicing a line
Well WM will do it for you but you will pay big bucks for them coming out to your boat. There is no way to disconnect the furler that is easy. To pass the continuous loop of line around it would require disconnecting either the top or bottom. With that said, splicing line is not hard. There are several websites and books available that have pictures walking you through the process. I personally prefer 3-strand rope as it is cheaper and stronger than braided and is much easier to work with when doing splices and the like. A braided line will also have a "fat" spot right at the splice that I find does not go through the furler very well. A 3-strand long splice does not have this problem. To do a professional job you will need the rope, and some sail twine and if you are using braided line a splicing fid. Costs about $10 and you can reuse it. My first long splice (on a furler control line) took me about 25 minutes to complete. It is quite simple but you have to keep things organized and not let the rope get away from you. I am truly amazed at what you can do with friction.
Well WM will do it for you but you will pay big bucks for them coming out to your boat. There is no way to disconnect the furler that is easy. To pass the continuous loop of line around it would require disconnecting either the top or bottom. With that said, splicing line is not hard. There are several websites and books available that have pictures walking you through the process. I personally prefer 3-strand rope as it is cheaper and stronger than braided and is much easier to work with when doing splices and the like. A braided line will also have a "fat" spot right at the splice that I find does not go through the furler very well. A 3-strand long splice does not have this problem. To do a professional job you will need the rope, and some sail twine and if you are using braided line a splicing fid. Costs about $10 and you can reuse it. My first long splice (on a furler control line) took me about 25 minutes to complete. It is quite simple but you have to keep things organized and not let the rope get away from you. I am truly amazed at what you can do with friction.
The snap you feel
I believe you have the Hood roller furling . My 33.5 has a similar problem with the furling "sticking" or "thunking" and sometimes being very difficult to furl. I posted the question here on the Hunter Owners Web and received good answers. The answer that was correct and most inexpensive to repair is go up the mast and inspect the very top of the Luff Section Assembly. There are two units called Top Bearings that insert into the upper luff section. Look for damaged or missing bearing. I inspected mine a couple days ago and found 1/2 of the top bearing assembly missing and the other side badly worn. There was also damage to the upper luff section as well as a damaged fore-stay caused by the upper luff section jamming the wire rope and deforming it. Do you have the manual? The web site is listed below for ordering parts.
I believe you have the Hood roller furling . My 33.5 has a similar problem with the furling "sticking" or "thunking" and sometimes being very difficult to furl. I posted the question here on the Hunter Owners Web and received good answers. The answer that was correct and most inexpensive to repair is go up the mast and inspect the very top of the Luff Section Assembly. There are two units called Top Bearings that insert into the upper luff section. Look for damaged or missing bearing. I inspected mine a couple days ago and found 1/2 of the top bearing assembly missing and the other side badly worn. There was also damage to the upper luff section as well as a damaged fore-stay caused by the upper luff section jamming the wire rope and deforming it. Do you have the manual? The web site is listed below for ordering parts.
Matt, Brion Toss has a
video and fids that will teach you how to splice any line. The continuous line is not difficult and can be made without the fat area in the splice. I have a H356 with roller main and had to re-splice it. With the video and wands it took about 10 minutes and the splice is almost invisable. Suggest a cleat or double chocks for the roller line that will tame it. Jim S/V Java
video and fids that will teach you how to splice any line. The continuous line is not difficult and can be made without the fat area in the splice. I have a H356 with roller main and had to re-splice it. With the video and wands it took about 10 minutes and the splice is almost invisable. Suggest a cleat or double chocks for the roller line that will tame it. Jim S/V Java
Jim Seamans is right
If you buy the Toss video and his special splicing tools, you'll be able to do what is called a "constant diameter" splice needed for continous line furlers, like the Hood 810. I think that the Samson website also has "directions" for how to do this splice, too. When I had such a furler and needed to replace the furling line, I downloaded those directions and gave it a try. I can't tell you how many miles of double braid I destroyed in the process....! I never got it right and, at the time, was unaware of Toss' video instructions. Since I knew my furler was on its last legs anyway and would need to be replaced soon, a decision you seem to be facing as well, here is what I did in the interim that worked better than I thought it would: I bought a piece of the right length double braid to replace the old furling line. Using a hot knife, I cut the ends off squarely. I then slipped a piece of heat shrink tubing over one end of the line and slid it up a ways. Then I butted the two ends of the line together, took some tough dacron whipping twine, and sewed them together with long stitches all around the butt. Then I slipped the heat shrink tubing over the joint, heated it up and it snugged up the joint nicely and neatly. This "poor man's fix" had no trouble going around the teeth of the furling drum and certainly seemed strong enough. Obviously, you've got to do this on your boat with the line threaded thru the system. But in the end, you seem to have an aging furler and probably ought to do what I did: replace it.
If you buy the Toss video and his special splicing tools, you'll be able to do what is called a "constant diameter" splice needed for continous line furlers, like the Hood 810. I think that the Samson website also has "directions" for how to do this splice, too. When I had such a furler and needed to replace the furling line, I downloaded those directions and gave it a try. I can't tell you how many miles of double braid I destroyed in the process....! I never got it right and, at the time, was unaware of Toss' video instructions. Since I knew my furler was on its last legs anyway and would need to be replaced soon, a decision you seem to be facing as well, here is what I did in the interim that worked better than I thought it would: I bought a piece of the right length double braid to replace the old furling line. Using a hot knife, I cut the ends off squarely. I then slipped a piece of heat shrink tubing over one end of the line and slid it up a ways. Then I butted the two ends of the line together, took some tough dacron whipping twine, and sewed them together with long stitches all around the butt. Then I slipped the heat shrink tubing over the joint, heated it up and it snugged up the joint nicely and neatly. This "poor man's fix" had no trouble going around the teeth of the furling drum and certainly seemed strong enough. Obviously, you've got to do this on your boat with the line threaded thru the system. But in the end, you seem to have an aging furler and probably ought to do what I did: replace it.
DIY
.. it is not hard to master. You will need a FID - there are line splicing instructions in the packaging - and practice. I couldn't splice a line to save my life. I bought Fids from West Marine and now I do all my own splicing.
.. it is not hard to master. You will need a FID - there are line splicing instructions in the packaging - and practice. I couldn't splice a line to save my life. I bought Fids from West Marine and now I do all my own splicing.
There has to be a way to replace the line.
I'm not familiar with the continious line furler but it seems to me that the proper solution to the problem would be to replace the furling line altogether. If it broke once, it will fail again and then in unknown conditions. It seems your bearings assemblies may also need replacing. A proffesional rigger should be able to do the job. They usually charge about $75 an hour and a $100 service call fee. He can replace the line, service or replace the bearings and tune the system in 2-3 hours so you would be looking around $325 plus parts. Perhaps around $450 altogether. Call one in your area and have him give you a ball park estimate over the phone. I would rather have a reliable, smooth roller furler for the jib than purchase a new gitzmo or perform any other improvement to the boat. Good luck.
I'm not familiar with the continious line furler but it seems to me that the proper solution to the problem would be to replace the furling line altogether. If it broke once, it will fail again and then in unknown conditions. It seems your bearings assemblies may also need replacing. A proffesional rigger should be able to do the job. They usually charge about $75 an hour and a $100 service call fee. He can replace the line, service or replace the bearings and tune the system in 2-3 hours so you would be looking around $325 plus parts. Perhaps around $450 altogether. Call one in your area and have him give you a ball park estimate over the phone. I would rather have a reliable, smooth roller furler for the jib than purchase a new gitzmo or perform any other improvement to the boat. Good luck.
Hard to turn
My furler was also hard to turn and resulted in professional "help" breaking the furler line keeper (single line furler). In repairing the unit I found that the bottom bearings, etc. was woefully laking in grease. As Ken found at the top, the bottom also requires maintenance, good luck.
My furler was also hard to turn and resulted in professional "help" breaking the furler line keeper (single line furler). In repairing the unit I found that the bottom bearings, etc. was woefully laking in grease. As Ken found at the top, the bottom also requires maintenance, good luck.
I know I know!
I have found the cheapest place to have line splice is at my local West Marine. Most the times the associates will do splicing for a nominal charge. Be sure to give them a good tip if they do a good job!
I have found the cheapest place to have line splice is at my local West Marine. Most the times the associates will do splicing for a nominal charge. Be sure to give them a good tip if they do a good job!
Hi Paul, FWIW, our Hood furler bearings do not...
require any type of lubrication other than rinsing off with fresh water at regular intervals. You did not say what brand you have. Please check your owner's manual or with the manufacturer for maintenance advice. Sometimes the use of lubricants where none is specified will hamper a product's performance. Usually our furler system becomes difficult to turn when I forget to ease the genoa halyard after a good close hauled sail. Terry
require any type of lubrication other than rinsing off with fresh water at regular intervals. You did not say what brand you have. Please check your owner's manual or with the manufacturer for maintenance advice. Sometimes the use of lubricants where none is specified will hamper a product's performance. Usually our furler system becomes difficult to turn when I forget to ease the genoa halyard after a good close hauled sail. Terry
- Status