Alternator "smart regulators" for hunter430

[Ryan Blocker]

I have a 1995 hunter 430 with the standard two 8D flooded house batteries and a isolated starter battery. The boat is kept at a slip and connected to shore power when not using. My trips are range from 2-4 days. Our boat has the usual inverter, refer, radar, autopilot, TV/DVD player, etc.
I was told by a "Pro" that with factory 60Amp alternator and regulator takes 25-35 hours to fully charge the two 8D batteries. The main reason it takes so long is because our factory regulator is decreasing our amperage prematurely. He said a Balmar digital regulator would make the alternator far more effective. What are your thoughts?
How long should it take to charge?
Is it hard on the diesel to not be under a load for hours at a time?(1700 RPM)
I also have a Honda 2000 generator with cords to connect into my shore power. How effective is that in charging the batteries (more or less the the engine alternator).

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

As a general rule, the charging capacity, a function of the total battery capacity, should be 20%. Two 8Ds having a capacity of aprpox 400 amps, equates to a 80 amp charge rating - not that far off your existing alternator rating with the proper regulator which would be a wise modification as it will allow you to set the charge rate to bulk charge for a longer time.

Although it takes a long time to FULLY charge batteries to 100% your existing setup is sufficient to bring the bank up to 85% is much less than 30 hours.

Your battery charger rating should be similarly sized. As the Honda is quite capable of running a 40 amp battery charger, that's your other alternative if your existing charger is less.

 

[Rick D]

I have a 100 amp Balmar alternator with a xantrex smart regulator http://www.xantrex.com/web/id/107/p/1/pt/7/product.asp I also have a Honda 2000 generator and three 22 watt solar panels.

When we are on our mooring, we pull about 125-150 plus amps per day. The solar panels take care of 50 of those. The rest we use the Honda to top off and warm water. We also have about 500 amp capacity. We charge when it's down to 180-200 and stop when it's -100 to -80, monitored on a Link 2000. Works well.

I would not recommend changing alternators as Don notes, but would recommend the xantrex or similar three-stage external regulator and some type of good battery monitor.

The Honda 2000 works very well when driven through my Freedom 2500 inverter/charger. I find I can get about 70 amps when I set the power share to 20 amps input. Any more and the generator will cut out. That is actually more than the Balmar will put out in real world which is about 60 amps at 1800 RPM. It will net a good deal less underway because of all the draw from the electronics and auto pilot.

Good luck. Hope some of this helps.

 

[Rich Stidger]

Be careful with the standard alternator

The advice that everyone has given so far is good. However, should you rewire your standard alternator with an external regulator that will hold the batteries in the bulk, absorption, and float mode for longer periods, you should be aware that the standard alternator is rated at it's current when it is cold and the rating decreases considerably wihen it is hot. Also the ratiing is PEAK amps, not RMS amps, so for a 60A alternator it will put out about 0.707 times 60A or about 42A when it is cold. Hot is less, maybe 30A would be my guess.

The standard alternator is also not cooled like a high-output hot rated alternator would be. You stand the risk of over-heating the standard alternator with an external regulator.

My advice would be to replace the standard alternator with a high-output unit such as a Balmar and then use the external regulator. BE SURE TO PROVIDE A SOURCE OF COOL AIR DIRECTLY TO THE ALTERNATOR. Failure to do so will likely overheat the high-output unit and cause a failure. It would also be advisable to use a alternator temp sensor with the external regulator to further protect the alternator.

 

[sailaway78]

High Output

I agree with the advice given, with the exception of the Balmar alternators. I think they are waaaaaay overpriced, and not really any different than any of the others. Also a 100amp alternator is right at the limits of a single belt drive. Attached is the site for a 90 amp. that is designed to fit Yanmar and Universal engines, for much less than the Balmar. http://www.svhotwire.com/hitashi_alternator.html
I have nothing what so ever to do with this company, and have not used their product, but am about to do so. There are some other regulators out there too, other than the Balmar, which is also overpriced, and I have read some complaints about short life on the Balmars.

 

[Lyle]

Re: High Output

The Balmar alternators are expensive but IMHO you do get what you pay for. Some of the cheaper alternators put out close to their rated output at cruising rpm but may have very little output at low engine rpm's - which you may occasionally wish for if you charge your batteries at anchor (compare the specs hot/cold and the performance curve at different alternator rpm's before you buy). I have used a Balmar 100 amp alternator for several years and have found it to be reliable and perform well when combined with a good 3 stage regulator.

 

[larryw]

Take your alternator to a shop that specializes in truck, RV or bus electrics. If your from Long Beach, CA, try Wayne Truck Electric on Anaheim. They can rebuild your alternator, boost its output somewhat, and with a smart regulator, (plenty of aftermarket makers) you can get decent output, although, with a Honda generator, you shouldn't need it. Diesels don't like freewheeling and the load an alt. puts on a big engine such as yours is negligable. Know also that the charging goal is not 100%; while on the hook/mooring, you will operate between 50-80%. My bank is also two 8Ds and I use my Honda for about an hour or hour and a half each day, an hour or so to charge, and 30 mins to heat water. The Honda can't do both at the same time. I know a guy who can set that all up for you, if you like.