I am considering replacing my rope and chain rode to an all chain rode. My question is what size chain, type and how much do I need. Boat is a H356, sailing area is all of Long Island Sound to include Block, Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket. Appreciate your help. Bob sv Kathryn, Stamford, Ct
- Status
All chain
Bob, I've thought about the same thing but have some concerns about the amount of weight. If you have a combination now, it would be the same chain type you already have. If you do it, let me know how your 356 handles the extra weight. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
Bob, I've thought about the same thing but have some concerns about the amount of weight. If you have a combination now, it would be the same chain type you already have. If you do it, let me know how your 356 handles the extra weight. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
How about a windlass?
If you are going to all chain, are you thinking about a windlass to handle getting the chain back in the locker? If so, the windlass will determine what kind and what size of chain to use. If you already have a windlass, you will have to use the chain indicated in the literature.
If you are going to all chain, are you thinking about a windlass to handle getting the chain back in the locker? If so, the windlass will determine what kind and what size of chain to use. If you already have a windlass, you will have to use the chain indicated in the literature.
John is right!
You will definitely need a windlass if you go all chain. I would recommend getting Hi Tensile chain which is stronger and lighter so you can buy a smaller size. Many of the windlass types have different a gypsy that you can change to the desired chain size.
You will definitely need a windlass if you go all chain. I would recommend getting Hi Tensile chain which is stronger and lighter so you can buy a smaller size. Many of the windlass types have different a gypsy that you can change to the desired chain size.
How about a kellet?
Hi Bob, What's your goal with the all chain rode? The good news is you can reduce your scope a bit. The bad news is the weight in the bow, need for a windlass, lack of shock load absorption (fixable with a snubber), and general handling difficulty. I chose to go with a 30 pound purpose made kellet which gives you much of the holding power advantage of the chain without the undesirable features. See the attached web site for more information. Gary Wyngarden S/V Shibumi H335
Hi Bob, What's your goal with the all chain rode? The good news is you can reduce your scope a bit. The bad news is the weight in the bow, need for a windlass, lack of shock load absorption (fixable with a snubber), and general handling difficulty. I chose to go with a 30 pound purpose made kellet which gives you much of the holding power advantage of the chain without the undesirable features. See the attached web site for more information. Gary Wyngarden S/V Shibumi H335
Thanks
Thanks guys. The purpose is to reduce scope, added strength and hopefully more secure holding. I do have a windless and currently have 20 ft of 3/8 (?) chain and and 200 ft of 1/2 inch line. I agree that the weight issue is a concern especially when the water tank, located under the vee berth is full - 65 gals, is full. Understand the need for a snubber line and would plan on using one if I decide to go forward with the project. Also, currenty use a danforth but I am also considering changing to a Bruce. The Delta plow that came with the boat was useless. The area we sail in covers all the holding types, muck, sand, rock etc. I have looked at the kellet idea but am unsure about it.
Thanks guys. The purpose is to reduce scope, added strength and hopefully more secure holding. I do have a windless and currently have 20 ft of 3/8 (?) chain and and 200 ft of 1/2 inch line. I agree that the weight issue is a concern especially when the water tank, located under the vee berth is full - 65 gals, is full. Understand the need for a snubber line and would plan on using one if I decide to go forward with the project. Also, currenty use a danforth but I am also considering changing to a Bruce. The Delta plow that came with the boat was useless. The area we sail in covers all the holding types, muck, sand, rock etc. I have looked at the kellet idea but am unsure about it.
More Chain
Bob, You didn't mention the length of your boat, but 20 feet of chain sounds skimpy. The rule of thumb I've heard and read is that you ought to have at least as much chain as the length of your boat. That might be an intermediate position to going all chain. Just a thought. Gary Wyngarden S/V Shibumi H335
Bob, You didn't mention the length of your boat, but 20 feet of chain sounds skimpy. The rule of thumb I've heard and read is that you ought to have at least as much chain as the length of your boat. That might be an intermediate position to going all chain. Just a thought. Gary Wyngarden S/V Shibumi H335
I'm Not So Sure, Gary
It depends on where you are. I got so tired of the 30' of chain on my Vision 32, I substituted 6' of coated chain so I could use the winch and a cheek block to lead the rode to it. In SoCal waters, there is little to worry about in the way of rock to chafe and scope takes care of the rest. Danforths buried plenty deep. I decided to try it when I often laid to bow and stern anchors and had no chain on the stern. The stern always set strong even when pulled different directions with the wind and current. I think a lot of chain (or all chain) makes sense when you have a windlass, even more if you have a reversing windlass. But I'm not so sure otherwise. BTW, in San Diego, we had five big boats on one smallish Danforth stern anchor with clocking winds and cross currents. We didn't care if it dragged, it was just to keep us from looping around our own rodes. After two days, it took three dinghies full of guys to disloge that sucker. Must have buried itself several feet. Never dragged either. Rick D.
It depends on where you are. I got so tired of the 30' of chain on my Vision 32, I substituted 6' of coated chain so I could use the winch and a cheek block to lead the rode to it. In SoCal waters, there is little to worry about in the way of rock to chafe and scope takes care of the rest. Danforths buried plenty deep. I decided to try it when I often laid to bow and stern anchors and had no chain on the stern. The stern always set strong even when pulled different directions with the wind and current. I think a lot of chain (or all chain) makes sense when you have a windlass, even more if you have a reversing windlass. But I'm not so sure otherwise. BTW, in San Diego, we had five big boats on one smallish Danforth stern anchor with clocking winds and cross currents. We didn't care if it dragged, it was just to keep us from looping around our own rodes. After two days, it took three dinghies full of guys to disloge that sucker. Must have buried itself several feet. Never dragged either. Rick D.
All Chain Aversion
Rick, In our waters we have some really deep anchorages and we're prepping for an Alaska trip where there are even more. Most chain weighs in at a little over a pound a foot. I just have an aversion to loading 250 pounds or more of chain plus an anchor up there on the bow. I know it works well for a lot of people. Gary Wyngarden S/V Shibumi H335
Rick, In our waters we have some really deep anchorages and we're prepping for an Alaska trip where there are even more. Most chain weighs in at a little over a pound a foot. I just have an aversion to loading 250 pounds or more of chain plus an anchor up there on the bow. I know it works well for a lot of people. Gary Wyngarden S/V Shibumi H335
- Status