Air Leaks in fresh water system

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J

Jim

One of the upgrades to Java this year was to install a pressure water system to the galley sink. Joan WANTED it. I do what I'm told, don't ask questions. After everything was installed, I couldn't keep air out of the system, it was driving me over the edge. I found out it was the plumbing installed at the factory at the water tank. SEE PHOTO FORUM for pictures. All along, I thought the problem was the hand pump check valve not sealing properly. It was the tee connection and compression fitting at the water tank. If you are having this problem of air, get someone to pump the sink and you watch the connection at the water tank. You will probably see air leaking in around the compression fitting. I swapped this mess out for a real simple tee fitting with no cut off valve. Sail On Until Sunrise Jim S/V Java
 
B

Bernie

Some questions

Jim, Your post is very timely for me as I have just purchased a 2.8 gallon per minute pump and separate accumulator and I am in the process of figuring out how I should proceed. Some questions you may be able to help me with: 1. I am trying to decide whether to pressurize both sinks or just the galley sink. Why did you decide to only pressurize the galley sink? 2. From your pictures it looks like you replaced all of your plastic tubing with hose and clamps, am I correct? Did you leave any of the original plastic tubing in place? 3. Did you have to replace the pump in your galley sink with a faucet or is the pump capable of serving as a shutoff valve in a pressurized system? (I am unfamiliar with the hand pump design so I ask this question out of ignorance) 4. From the photo, it appears that you installed a check valve in the line to the galley sink. The electric pump I bought has a built-in check valve. Am I incorrect in assuming that I don't need a separate check valve? Thanks for your help! Bernie
 
Mar 21, 2004
2,175
Hunter 356 Cobb Island, MD
Here you go Bernie!

1. I just pressured the galley sink since this is where most of the water is used. Read Joan does the dishes! The pump and accumulator are located under the sink against the forward bulkhead. I'll post of picture of it tonight. 2. I left the plastic hard hose installed by Hunter in place and clamped some tubing to form the tee connection. I tried to cut the the main exit line as low as possible to the bottom of the tank leaving at least 2 inches to attach the new hose to. A tough fit for my ribs!!! 3. I have read somewhere on the forum that you could leave the original pump in place and a that's what I did. Rereading you question, I didn't install a demand pressure system but installed a switch to be turned on and off for water. Joan liked that better.. We can also use the pump lever to get water if there is an electrical problem. If you want a demand type system, you will need a different faucet. 4. Check valves - I got alittle carried away. I've got them on both lines. You can't see the one to the head. You might be ok if the pump has one, but be ready if you are getting air in the line somewhere. The factory installed tee and cutoff valve was leaking lots of air. The cutoff valves are not cheap, $22 at BoatUS! Btw If I was going to pressure both sinks I would have installed the pump in the vee area next to the water tank and ran the electrical back. I chickened out. This was enough work for my backside. Jim S/V Java
 
B

Bernie

Thanks, Jim

Jim, Thank you for your quick response. I plan to duplicate your "t" connection and place my pump and accumulator next to the water tank. I have already run the electrical wire up there through the conduit for the water tubing on the starboard side. After reading your response, I think I will only pressurize the galley sink, but still put the pump & accumulator next to the water tank to preserve the storage space under the sink. I guess that I will have to replace the handpump with a faucet. I am tempted to stick in a 1 gallon hot water tank at the same time, but I think that it is just too much of an electrical load for the simple convenience. Oh well, I need to save projects for next year. Another project I am currently working on that may be of interest to you is fabricating an appropriate bottom for the helmsman's seat so that I can use it for a small cooler or lifejacket storage and not interfere with the steering mechanism or gas tank shutoff. I'll post some pictures within a few weeks of several modifications I have made. Most of them are electrical/electronic in nature, but I have also added a number of extra cleats on the mast, boom, and stern rail for various reasons that make sailing more enjoyable and easier to sail alone. One final question - How did you ever get your wife to do the dishes on Java. I have been married 33 years, and I don't think I would make it to our 34th anniversary if I so much as suggested to Diane that she should do the dishes on the boat. I am absolutely envious of your success in this matter. Don't get me wrong - I am in charge on my boat. In fact, I have a plaque on board that states that "I am the captain of this vessel and I have my wife's permission to say so." Good sailing and thanks again! Bernie
 
J

Jim

Dishes

Its real easy to get her to do the dishes. I do everything else. Set the anchor, sails make sure we are on the best tack for her to get the sun. Let her read. When she is at the helm - I do what I'm told. I'm a good puppy!!! Will be intested in the pictures of the seat mods. Jim S/V Java
 
M

Michael Stephens

water heater

Bernie, Where did you find a 1 gallon water heater? Michael Stephens S/V Pure Heaven
 
B

Bernie

Water Tank

Michael, I haven't done anything except think about installing a small hot water tank, but I will respond to your question based on the ideas that I have been toying with. What I would use for the water tank is not a true hot water tank. Rather it is a copper tank with tubing and a thermostat that was originally used for instant hot water at my kitchen sink before my recent remodeling. Its thermostat allows water temperatures between 145 and 190 degrees. Although higher than the typical 130 degrees of a hot water tank, the 145 degrees I think would be an ok setting. You can find these instant hot water systems in sizes from 1/3 to 1 gallon (~$89 to ~$149). They are mostly made of copper, and so there should be minimal corrosion problems. Since I would likely plumb it into a single faucet at the galley sink together with the cold water, I would need to add a pressure relief valve that could relieve into the sink drain line. These tanks are not well insulated and so I would immerse the tank in plenty of insulation for efficiency. These units typically use 750 watts at 110volts. That's a lot of power demand on my inverter even if I initially heat up the tank on shorepower before leaving the slip. So between the power demand and the question of value vs. work to install, I probably won't do this in the foreseeable future, but it is fun to daydream about more modifications to my H260. Bernie
 
J

Joe

ISE "INSTY-HOT"

Hi Bernie and guys, I have had in mind as well to use the "insty-hot" by Insinkerator. It's not quite like the larger and nicer marine hot water heaters but it is probably an appropiate match for a boat like the 260. The price size and weight seem to be about right for us. I think mounting it in the bow makes sence because if you're putting one those in you've probably already added a bunch of weight somewhere aft of the bow. I located my house battery in the galley cabinet in a box on that rectangular hump. (no screws into the tank!) The start battery went in the head cabinet. I need all the weight forward that I can get with 112 lbs. of motor on the back and almost 40 gallons of gas aft. Bernie, did you get your batteries relocated? Fair winds to all, (now that there is some warmer weather to go with it) Joe C. '01 H260 Windward Passage
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
Smallist water heaters.

Ariston has several electric water heaters that range from 2-2.5 gal. up. Very slick unit for anyone without a heat exchanger on their engine or without an inboard engine. They start at around $140. Just plug them into your AC circuit and you are ready to go.
 
B

Bernie

The batteries are all moved

Joe, Yes my batteries are moved. I epoxied a piece of contour matching half inch pressure treated plywood under the sink in the head to give me a perfectly flat surface. I installed my two golf-cart house batteries there in series along with my Link10 monitor in the cabinet front, high and to the right of the cabinet door. The starting battery I placed in the larger port aft locker to allow me to easily add distilled battery water and maintain good access to both aft lockers. I also had to reconnect a digital voltmeter, a combiner for charging all the batteries off the outboard, a 1000 watt inverter and a 20 amp multibank charger - As you probably have already learned, it is a lot of work to move the batteries. I had hoped to put the boat in the water today, but we are having heavy thunderstorms with lots of lightning. I guess I'll have to wait until next weekend to put her in the slip. What are you doing with 40 gallons of gas back aft? I have a permanent 11 gallon tank and, with the 9.9 4-stroke, that usually lasts half the summmer - 40 gallons would last me the whole year. If you are using your outboard a lot to charge your batteries, you may want to consider a small generator. I have a Honda 1000 watt generator that only weighs 37 lbs and is not much larger than a briefcase. It fits in the opening on the right side of the helmsman seat where I strap it in place and connect it to the shorepower receptacle. It is a very quiet generator and will run the 20 amp charger and other small 110 volt loads with no problem. It only holds a half gallon of gas, but that will allow it to run at full load for six hours. Great sailing & Happy Easter Bernie
 
G

Guest

Wow, sounds like alot of $/work

Why don't ya just boil some water on the stove for hot water?
 
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