replacing the water heater ..removed lines to heat exchanger ..allowed air in the system ...now engine overheats ...having a tough time bleeding the system ..this happened years ago when i changed the hoses ....forget what i did ...help ....schaefer
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AIR LOCK
you have an air lock. Either you will need to install a "bleeder valve" at the lowest possible spot in the system or sometimes if you take the hose off the water heater (from the engine) with the engine RUNNING just enough to let the air escape but not let all the coolant dump out,just pull the hose off to let the air escape and the pump push the water thur,it general take a couple of seconds,hold the hose at the fitting and maybe just pull the top of the hose off and leave it on the bottom so you can see the water flow. Not a hard job but you need to get the air out of they system, this will stop the overheating.
you have an air lock. Either you will need to install a "bleeder valve" at the lowest possible spot in the system or sometimes if you take the hose off the water heater (from the engine) with the engine RUNNING just enough to let the air escape but not let all the coolant dump out,just pull the hose off to let the air escape and the pump push the water thur,it general take a couple of seconds,hold the hose at the fitting and maybe just pull the top of the hose off and leave it on the bottom so you can see the water flow. Not a hard job but you need to get the air out of they system, this will stop the overheating.
Uhhh try this
It is standard procedure on a pressurized fresh water (anti) cooling system to run the system with out the pressure cap in place and add coolant once the engine gets up to temp. You really don't want to be taking hoses off a pressurized hot system as this can get you really scalded. An alternate procedure is to over fill the expansion tank (plastic bottle connected to the pressure cap fitting) and fill the engine as much as you can. Then run the engine till it is hot and stop it. Let the engine cool and watch the level of fluid in the expansion tank. It should drop indicating air was forced out as the engine heated up and now coolant is being drawn in. Repeat till the engine stops overheating and then keep an eye on the expansion tank level till it stabilizes. Since you have run the engine up to temp you can probably just take the pressure cap off after it cools down and add coolant and get her to stop over heating. Then just monitor the coolant level in the expansion tank as the last of the air is forced out and coolant drawn in. I'd like to repeat: DO NOT take hoses off a pressurized hot engine. You are asking for a mess at the very least or a trip to the hospital and a long recover from your burns.
It is standard procedure on a pressurized fresh water (anti) cooling system to run the system with out the pressure cap in place and add coolant once the engine gets up to temp. You really don't want to be taking hoses off a pressurized hot system as this can get you really scalded. An alternate procedure is to over fill the expansion tank (plastic bottle connected to the pressure cap fitting) and fill the engine as much as you can. Then run the engine till it is hot and stop it. Let the engine cool and watch the level of fluid in the expansion tank. It should drop indicating air was forced out as the engine heated up and now coolant is being drawn in. Repeat till the engine stops overheating and then keep an eye on the expansion tank level till it stabilizes. Since you have run the engine up to temp you can probably just take the pressure cap off after it cools down and add coolant and get her to stop over heating. Then just monitor the coolant level in the expansion tank as the last of the air is forced out and coolant drawn in. I'd like to repeat: DO NOT take hoses off a pressurized hot engine. You are asking for a mess at the very least or a trip to the hospital and a long recover from your burns.
Bill is correct
This should not be done a "hot" engine but it can be done on a "cold" engine there will be no pressure when the water is still cold. I have done this several times successfully (on cold engine less then 100 degree) I would have thought that would have gone with out saying but maybe in today's world everything needs to be spelt out. Best answer is to install a bleeder valve less then $10 of parts and it will be in place for next time there is an issue (coolant change or some other water leak) Bill's method will work sometimes but I have seen some engines that are very stubborn and may need more. This is where my method will work or the bleeder valve will work. Good Luck !
This should not be done a "hot" engine but it can be done on a "cold" engine there will be no pressure when the water is still cold. I have done this several times successfully (on cold engine less then 100 degree) I would have thought that would have gone with out saying but maybe in today's world everything needs to be spelt out. Best answer is to install a bleeder valve less then $10 of parts and it will be in place for next time there is an issue (coolant change or some other water leak) Bill's method will work sometimes but I have seen some engines that are very stubborn and may need more. This is where my method will work or the bleeder valve will work. Good Luck !
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