Aftermarket Engine Starter

[Bob4203]

Well after a cold spell I went up to my Catalina 30 today to check it out and when I tried to start the engine the starter was spinning. Perhaps I did not have the correct cranking amps and lost juice in my batteries or the solenoid is bad. My guess is battery.

I will run more tests but I found it interesting that a major Universal Engine supplier wanted over $1000 for a new starter (part 299512 for an M-18), while Ebay and Amazon offered units for as low as $125 shipped free with a one-year warranty!! They were from reputable electrical shops. I have no issue with rebuilt electrical components as I have had luck with car starters, alternators and the like over the years.

So naturally, my tendency is to shell out less $$$$$ considering that my Universal M-18 on my 1988 Mark II has 545 hours logged oit. Anyone ever buy one of these and were their issues?

Thanks
Bob

 

[Sailm8]

I bought an $89.00 starter for my Yanmar. off ebay Fit perfect and works great. I plan to have original rebuilt some day but I figured I could by 4 of these for what one OEM cost. Worth the chance IMHO.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Bob,

What do you mean by "spinning?"

 

[hvbaker]

I bought the aftermarket as a spare. Looks to be fine.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Most local alternator shops would do a great job on repairs. Same guts, they're good at it. Find one in your neighborhood. I just did.

 

[hvbaker]

I bought the aftermarket as a spare. Looks to be fine.

$93.00

 

[centerline]

if its spinning without engaging, its more than likely the solenoid or the bendix rather than the starter, but both are attached to the starter.

the only difference between a marine starter and an automotive starter is the price, EXCEPT in the case of a gas engine, THEN a screen is fitted inside so it wont blow up the boat if it gets gas fumes in the engine compartment... (a flame, or flash will not go thru a screen)
do NOT use an automotive starter on a gas engine unless it as been outfitted for marine use first.

on a diesel it doesnt matter...

BUT, with all that said, I would look for a delco rather than a brand X, as the delco starters are built heavier for longevity...

im with Stu, take it to a rebuild shop and have it taken care of for less than a hundred dollars...

 

[Bob4203]

Thanks for the replies. The concensus is that aftermarket units are dependable!

Regarding the "spinning" I realize this can be a sign of a failed solenoid; however, it can be a weak starting battery as well because a few of those starting times it was also a "click" which tells me not enough juice is getting to the starter. My not so expensive flooded batteries are approximately five years old and are charged by a dual 10-amp charger. I always leave my battery selector on BOTH while I am away from the boat and keep it on BOTH when starting.

I will take a meter to get a better read on the batteries before getting into the starter. The panel volt meter for me is not enough to tell enough.

Regardless, it looks like the starter is an easy removal and replacement. For the prices I have seen on Ebay or Amazon its worth having a spare onboard anyways. I can always have my original starter rebuilt once off and use as the spare if needed.

Appreciate the feedback. Anyother advice ia always welcome.

Bob
1988 Mark II
Universal M-18

 

[jamesstpierremb]

Hi Bob.. Ur starter turns (spins) ok so solenoid and starter are ok. bendix is dirty or seized. whack it with a crescent wrench and it will likely work.However time for a new one. Got mine, for my m 25 at Rare Electric on E- Bay for $125.

Jim St Pierre

 

[jrowan]

Bob, I tend to agree with Stu about having your original equipment starter rebuilt.
Even if its just the solenoid or Bendix that are worn & failing, a shop can rebuild the moving parts a lot cheaper & your KNOW that the original starter works & is designed for marine use.

But I'm curious as to why you leave both of your batteries switched to on when you leave your boat? Isn't that is causing a lot of unnecessary draw, & premature wear on your batteries? I have my charger powered by 110 shore power, of course. The only draw that I have to power is the automatic bilge pump, which I have wired directly tone of the deep cell batteries. It has its own control switch, wired separate from the main 12 volt control panel circuits. This keeps my electrical load draw to a minimum, & ensures that my bilge pump gets the power that it needs.

 

[Maine Sail]

Thanks for the replies. The concensus is that aftermarket units are dependable!

Bob,

That has NOT been my experience with the aftermarket CHINESE knock offs sold on eBay and elsewhere. Do they work? Sure, and some times they turn over very, very slow, sometimes they last a year and sometimes they last 5+ years. The best bet is to have your Kubota (often a Nippondenso) starter re-built locally. Probably run you $75.00. The factory starters are good quality, the Chinese knocks offs are very, very hit or miss.

 

[Me and Boo]

Does anyone have the Kubota part number for the starter off a 1984 M25? Due to the aqualift drain failing and a lot of salt water sloshing over the starter it is in very bad condition.

 

[Bob4203]

Cannot help you on the starter number. If you try the web I am sure something will come up.

My two batteries turned out to be dead and after I installed two new flooded Group 27 batteries today, the engine started right up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So much for failed starters. To add to that, my buzzer on my panel came back to life.

What a friggin difference a fresh jolt of amperage and voltage will do

Big lessons learned here.

Bob

 

[dparilla]

Starter Numbers

Does anyone have the Kubota part number for the starter off a 1984 M25? Due to the aqualift drain failing and a lot of salt water sloshing over the starter it is in very bad condition.

Here are the various part numbers that I have found for M25 starters (model year and contract number seem to vary greatly, hence the different numbers.)
API MARINE: 17051
KUBOTA: 15231-63012, 15231-63013, 15231-63014, 15231-63015, 15231-63016, 15271-63C13, 16097-61361, 19293-63011, E7199-63010 NIPPON DENSO: 028000-7460, 028000-7461, 028000-7462, 028000-7470, 028000-7471, 028000-7472, 028000-9570
PRESTOLITE SALES: 20513040
UNIVERSAL MARINE: 299512, 301295

 

[Bob4203]

Thanks everyone...................

My problem was a dead or dying battery!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Once I installed two new Group 27 battereis last week, not only did the engine starter come back to life but that buzzer on the engine panel came back to life as well!! So the lesson learned? Before you think everything has gone to hell in a hand basket, check your batteries first!!

As it turned out I blew the crew at our local West Marine away last week. I exchanged my older Group 27 flooded battereis for two new ones. The manuafacturers date on the older battereis? August 2007!!

Needless to say, I feel better.

Bob