advice to refasten teak deck seating area

Aug 28, 2006
564
Bavaria 35E seattle
On my 1999 Bavaria 35E, there's teak decking on the cockpit seating. In a couple of areas, it is lifting at the outer margins. The worst being against the forward coaming where it curves toward the companionway area. I've tried three different adhesives and even used concrete blocks for weight, but it continues to lift. This is very hard to access. I certainly can't get under it to clean out whatever layers of adhesive are there (between what I've done a couple of tries and the previous owner's work). I'm tempted to use a couple of short stainless screws countersunk just so it grabs to the FRP below. I can probably cover the screws with teak bungs. I'll use some bedding material and hopefully keep the screws at a minimum length so I don't create any water intrusion under them. Bad idea to use screws and just get this done with?
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Aug 28, 2006
564
Bavaria 35E seattle
Don't do that if you can't get under it with adequate bedding. If you can, then you can also clean out the old adhesive.
Can you post pictures?
Can you get underneath the seating?
Try this article Replacing Teak Decks, the DIY-er's Way - Practical Sailor Print Edition Article

-Will (Dragonfly)
Not possible to get under the seating, it only lifts about a 1/4 inch and it's in the back corner. I tried to just build up the caulk, but it still lifts (the board has a bit spring to it) and water will get under.

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Oct 19, 2017
7,733
O'Day 19 Littleton, NH
Not possible to get under the seating, it only lifts about a 1/4 inch and it's in the back corner. I tried to just build up the caulk, but it still lifts
If I'm reading this correctly, you are referring to the space between the teak and the glass seat. I meant under the glass seat itself. If all else fails. You can screw up into the teak from underneath with bedded screws and glass them in. This will hide the screws without the use of bungs.
I think the best, and right, way to repair this problem is to pull the teak all the way off, clean it up, and rebond with epoxy. If you don't mind the bungs in your boards, that will certainly work. You may want to add some solid glass and epoxy to the seat from below to add to the holding length of your screws.
It is important to keep in mind, teak is an oily wood and needs that oil stripped off with alcohol to get a good glue adhesion.

-Will (Dragonfly)
 
Aug 28, 2006
564
Bavaria 35E seattle
Thanks Will. Underneath is the aft cabin. I just didn't want to remove the entire teak seat and risk splitting it. I can live with a small bung in there.