Advice - removing trim panel

[Gary Kunkel]

We have a 1988 Catalina 30 MKII with a leak that's been driving me crazy since I bought the boat. I've tried many strategies including re-bedding the chainplates, portlights, even pressure-tested the boat and used soapy water. I'm beginning to suspect the leak may be behind the rub rail. The next thing I'd like to do is remove the light-colored wood trim panel that's shown in this picture so I could see what is going on behind it. I've removed the mid-level teak shelf, but am not sure it's possible to remove the wood panel. Has anyone done this? If so can you describe what you did. Is it possible to losen the screws holding it in place, slide it slightly forward or aft, then bend and remove it without breaking it? I'm not eager to try this until I've heard from someone who has (hopefully) successfully done the same thing.Regards,Gary KunkelCatalina 30 "Folie a Deux"Channel Islands Harbor, CA

 

[chief14326]

I could not

Last year I tried to remove the panel to get better access to the stanchion bolts right above. I thought I had a beat on it, but like you found it impossible to remove. Even taking out the shelves was a chore, and I managed to do some minor damage in the process. I would also like to hear from anyone who has had success in removing the panel. I was able to tighten the bolts using a borrowed crows foot wrench.

 

[John]

Trim Panel

Since you feel the leak is the rub rail why not take the rubber out of the rail and rebed the screws that hold the rub rail in place? Was the rail ever hit? I replaced the aluminum rail and rubber on my 83 Cat 30. There are lots of screws back there. If yours was ever replaced the old holes may not have been sealed. My point is that this would avoid removal of this panel.

 

[Stu Jackson]

There are some reports that some screws or bolts

holding the rub rail frame were not installed by the factory. The suggestion to look under the rub rail has merit.

 

[John]

wood panel

mine came out i slide the panel back 1/4" pulled it down and bent it around the fiber glass lip on top and worked it out .By the chain plates there are bolts that run thru the alum rail thru the deck 'thru the hull then thru the inside hull liner you can see them in the lockers, behind the med cabenet and over the hanging locker.I dont think the bolts would leak if they are snug.It could leak under the deck toe rail.I have a problem with my jib tracks,the bolts that hold the track are run thru the deck and thru the cabin liner.There is space between them and when the sheet pulls on the track it could leak thru the holes and get between top and bottom layers and drip out behind the wood trim.I was leaking from my hach cover.There are two weep holes in the frount of the hach cover that take water from the hatch rails and let it leak out the frount of the hatch hood ,if the hols get jamed with stuff the (starbord side becouse of the list the 88 have) you could get water on the stb side .I was leaking in the spring and laate fall in the same spot .I have a hatch 16x16 behind the mast.In cool rainy weather the alum around the hatch builds condensation and drips on my table, the inside of the frame drips on the inside and runs down the liner and comes out in the same spot.I would bet on the jib track or the hatch hood holes. If your water is driping in frount of the frount window it propley comeing from the hatch becouse catalina put lots of splugeeeeeee there to hold it together when they cut for the windows.Try baby powder around the cabin side it leaves a nice trail. John

 

[catalinaguy]

Stanchions?

Gary have you checked your stanchions? I have an 88 also and have removed and rebeded most of the stanchions and rails. I now have a dry boat. The key to undoing and replacing many of the bolts was to bend the two sizes of wrenches at right angles to enable getting them on the stanchion nuts.