It seems I cannot bolt throgh my deck or hull on my boat. I have to drill trough the gelcoat/glass into the side of marine plywood. What I thought I would do was drill an oversize hole and fill with epoxy. Originally I was going to put some bolts in there glassed-in head in threads out. However I am concerned about keeping them aligned properly while curing. Is the strength of screws into cured epoxy the same as glassed in bolts? Am I nuts for even considering screws? (I am using 5200 on a bracket with 6 sq. inches of surface, and the bowsprit has a downward suppurt stanchion into the hull) Please advise oh collective genius.
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Found some helpful tools....
I found some inserts at WestMarine that I can glass in and they'll receive a bolt. really cool. FYI they also have toggles which have about an eight inch "throat" they work like the "drywall" toggles for hanging mirrors in your house only made of Nylon so they don't rust.
I found some inserts at WestMarine that I can glass in and they'll receive a bolt. really cool. FYI they also have toggles which have about an eight inch "throat" they work like the "drywall" toggles for hanging mirrors in your house only made of Nylon so they don't rust.
You can mount your engine this way
Take a 1 1/2" hole saw and cut your holes as close to center where your machine screws will go in. It is good idea to make bottom of hole wider than top or cut grooves into the bottom to nothing at the top with saw blade. Assuming the bottom can be sealed with a wide tape you now pour a 2-1 true epoxy with a high density filler and milled fiber [50-50] what is important is your concistensy it must be dense and yet must flow. Pour it into the holes. your desired lenght bolts must be prepared with a product called Teff Gell [any heavy grease will work. Fill all threads with Teff Gell now run nut all the way up and down screw. You must be able to spin these slowely with driil to create your thread. put your pulpit over work area after you prepared it so it can lift of after epoxy dry. screws will now fit in center of your drilled holes filled with epoxy slowely spin them in to expand all possible air bubbles leave till it dry and let me know if you know of a better method
Take a 1 1/2" hole saw and cut your holes as close to center where your machine screws will go in. It is good idea to make bottom of hole wider than top or cut grooves into the bottom to nothing at the top with saw blade. Assuming the bottom can be sealed with a wide tape you now pour a 2-1 true epoxy with a high density filler and milled fiber [50-50] what is important is your concistensy it must be dense and yet must flow. Pour it into the holes. your desired lenght bolts must be prepared with a product called Teff Gell [any heavy grease will work. Fill all threads with Teff Gell now run nut all the way up and down screw. You must be able to spin these slowely with driil to create your thread. put your pulpit over work area after you prepared it so it can lift of after epoxy dry. screws will now fit in center of your drilled holes filled with epoxy slowely spin them in to expand all possible air bubbles leave till it dry and let me know if you know of a better method
Remember that the bowsprit
is a compression member. The force on those bolts is not lifting against the nuts and washers, it's pushing sideways (or aft actually) against the inserts in the core. On old wood boats, the bowsprit often pushes against a "Sampson post" that goes through the deck down to the keel. Is there plywood core under your bow cleat? If so, try to build your bowsprit support into that. If not, maybe a big (18"x18"?) plywood or aluminium backing plate under the deck, and bolt the bowsprit through to that, and add 1/4 inch bolts at the corners and maybe the middle of the sides. An aluminium plate on top and bottom of the deck is better. 12"x12" would be big enough if there's a plate top and bottom. But... Why do you want to add a bowsprit? If it's just for an anchor roller, all of the above is nonsense.
is a compression member. The force on those bolts is not lifting against the nuts and washers, it's pushing sideways (or aft actually) against the inserts in the core. On old wood boats, the bowsprit often pushes against a "Sampson post" that goes through the deck down to the keel. Is there plywood core under your bow cleat? If so, try to build your bowsprit support into that. If not, maybe a big (18"x18"?) plywood or aluminium backing plate under the deck, and bolt the bowsprit through to that, and add 1/4 inch bolts at the corners and maybe the middle of the sides. An aluminium plate on top and bottom of the deck is better. 12"x12" would be big enough if there's a plate top and bottom. But... Why do you want to add a bowsprit? If it's just for an anchor roller, all of the above is nonsense.
wHY BOWSPRIT
I need a bowsprit because my Ericson has such a slight entry there is no deck to mount an anchor roller ( stock) the OEM roller has a cut-out for the forestay strap. I use a CQR 35lb and it pitches up against the roller furler drum unless I reach out above the bow pulpit and ease it in.( ouch!) My wife could never do it so if I need her for some reason I'm SOL. Even with the bowsprit I need 11.5" of deck athwartships. On my boat I have to travel back 30" to have that much deck, thus I need to go into the toe-rail instead of the preferable direction: down into the deck. while I've seen many Ericsons bowsprits mounted into this toe-rail, I promised I would take no shortcuts on this boat. thus I was asking for advice from the Internet genie. At this point I'm convinced the 1/4" x 20 threaded barrell receivers will hold as I have epoxied them into a 3/8" hole. After that I used 4200 on the 2x2 inch bracket. Combined with the downward supporting stanchion I think I'll be fine.
I need a bowsprit because my Ericson has such a slight entry there is no deck to mount an anchor roller ( stock) the OEM roller has a cut-out for the forestay strap. I use a CQR 35lb and it pitches up against the roller furler drum unless I reach out above the bow pulpit and ease it in.( ouch!) My wife could never do it so if I need her for some reason I'm SOL. Even with the bowsprit I need 11.5" of deck athwartships. On my boat I have to travel back 30" to have that much deck, thus I need to go into the toe-rail instead of the preferable direction: down into the deck. while I've seen many Ericsons bowsprits mounted into this toe-rail, I promised I would take no shortcuts on this boat. thus I was asking for advice from the Internet genie. At this point I'm convinced the 1/4" x 20 threaded barrell receivers will hold as I have epoxied them into a 3/8" hole. After that I used 4200 on the 2x2 inch bracket. Combined with the downward supporting stanchion I think I'll be fine.
Epoxy bolts head first
thanks for the instructions I used the advice in concert with my barrell receivers.
thanks for the instructions I used the advice in concert with my barrell receivers.
Does this help.
Don Evans mounted this on his 25 O'Day. r.w.landau http://album.sailboatowners.com/detail?photo=357
Don Evans mounted this on his 25 O'Day. r.w.landau http://album.sailboatowners.com/detail?photo=357
Hank, There is some wild stuff here.
Don't drill holes and epoxy the bolts in, Thru bolts would be better. If you look at the link I sent in the last post, the jib tack is original. The sprit was cut out to keep the orginal Jib tack point. The other thing to be concerned with is the shape of the deck. If the shape of the deck does not match the sprit, you will have sealing problems. Backing plates would be a must. r.w.landau
Don't drill holes and epoxy the bolts in, Thru bolts would be better. If you look at the link I sent in the last post, the jib tack is original. The sprit was cut out to keep the orginal Jib tack point. The other thing to be concerned with is the shape of the deck. If the shape of the deck does not match the sprit, you will have sealing problems. Backing plates would be a must. r.w.landau
Hank, here is a article I did on my bowsprit
http://www.sailboatowners.com/upload/display.tpl?folder=7322381528&fno=17 This is the link to the article posted about 2 years ago. I am very pleased with mine. Not sure what your boat's bow will reqiure, but the Hunter 33 (1982) has a very narrow area, this was my solution. Good luck, David Underwood
http://www.sailboatowners.com/upload/display.tpl?folder=7322381528&fno=17 This is the link to the article posted about 2 years ago. I am very pleased with mine. Not sure what your boat's bow will reqiure, but the Hunter 33 (1982) has a very narrow area, this was my solution. Good luck, David Underwood
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