After three years on a MacGregor 26C we have made an offer on a Hunter 26. Reading the owner reviews it looks like several people had leaks around the mast pole and maybe even the ballast box. Can anyone help us zero in on how to inspect this boat for problems? The seller is taking us out on Saturday for an inspection/orientation sail. We are thinking we will carefully inspect the bilges before and after the sail. Any other suggestions?
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My Two Cents ...
In addition to the bilge - after the sail - check under the galley sink for standing water. In addition to the mast post - water sometimes comes in below the table from where the center board is mounted. This can be sealed with 5200 - but it's a good place to check. Tom Grass Grasshopper II H-26 #174
In addition to the bilge - after the sail - check under the galley sink for standing water. In addition to the mast post - water sometimes comes in below the table from where the center board is mounted. This can be sealed with 5200 - but it's a good place to check. Tom Grass Grasshopper II H-26 #174
Check for add on installations
The previous owner of my Celeste had a Cooling device installed under the starboard seet - and drilled holes right through the ballast tank top for 4 fastening screws and no sealant to fill in with the screws - so I had a continous small leak there and it took quite a while before I found out. Because the water found its way to the lowest part under the twin bed. Now she's dry. So, look out for any additional installation. Toomas
The previous owner of my Celeste had a Cooling device installed under the starboard seet - and drilled holes right through the ballast tank top for 4 fastening screws and no sealant to fill in with the screws - so I had a continous small leak there and it took quite a while before I found out. Because the water found its way to the lowest part under the twin bed. Now she's dry. So, look out for any additional installation. Toomas
Transom cracks
I have a '94 23.5 but the 26 was probably manufactured the same way. I, and many other 23.5 owners, have had small cracks that run along the lip where the hull and transom meet. If you are standing behind the boat looking at the stern the cracks are along the curved edge that forms an updisde down arc. The manufacturer short cut is that this small surface/edge only has gelcoat over the foam with out first being glassed. It is not a deal killer but is a bargaining chip when negotiating the sales price. I had mine glassed for about $200. Good luck and welcome to the Hunter Owners Group.
I have a '94 23.5 but the 26 was probably manufactured the same way. I, and many other 23.5 owners, have had small cracks that run along the lip where the hull and transom meet. If you are standing behind the boat looking at the stern the cracks are along the curved edge that forms an updisde down arc. The manufacturer short cut is that this small surface/edge only has gelcoat over the foam with out first being glassed. It is not a deal killer but is a bargaining chip when negotiating the sales price. I had mine glassed for about $200. Good luck and welcome to the Hunter Owners Group.
H26 inspection
This is a pretty simple boat and you'll be able to fix most problems easily. I think you have the right idea about the water. Make sure you spend a fair amount of time heeling at 20 degrees or better on each Tack. I still have not found the leak under the gally sink (think it's the thru-hull) and I get water in the bilge. I think that is coming from a couple of places: (1) from the ballast valve when I forget to plug it and (2)from the deck/hull joint at the stern. I would not consider leaks a deal breaker, it just takes some detective work and a liberal application of 3M5200 in the right places once you find the source. Based on comments of others I'd look closely at the engine mount for cracks or distortation of the mount. Also look for cracks anywhere along the deck/hull joint. Also, other obvious things to look at is the the condition of the sails and the engine.
This is a pretty simple boat and you'll be able to fix most problems easily. I think you have the right idea about the water. Make sure you spend a fair amount of time heeling at 20 degrees or better on each Tack. I still have not found the leak under the gally sink (think it's the thru-hull) and I get water in the bilge. I think that is coming from a couple of places: (1) from the ballast valve when I forget to plug it and (2)from the deck/hull joint at the stern. I would not consider leaks a deal breaker, it just takes some detective work and a liberal application of 3M5200 in the right places once you find the source. Based on comments of others I'd look closely at the engine mount for cracks or distortation of the mount. Also look for cracks anywhere along the deck/hull joint. Also, other obvious things to look at is the the condition of the sails and the engine.
Consider a professional surveyer BUT..
...they ain't perfect: 1. check for routine stuff as on any boat this age like standing and running rigging, sail condition, anchor and rhode condition, fitting of compartment hatches (my cockpit locker is a constant pia as it was misalligned at the factory), hull moisture and soft spots (on deck too), amateur repairs or electric work, too clean (to hide leaks) or too dirty, bedding of hardware, engine, 2. swing keel should work smoothly with effort and drop slowly when stopped and not get hung up, may be a bit of side to side wobble 3. roller furler may have been installed with tangs if so make sure headstay is not too long as it should have been shortened, 4. as mentioned check bilges (under rear birth and both sinks) when heeling hard and after doing such, the top of the tank (and accumulated water) can be seen in some boats by opening the teak step on the campanionway stairs and shining a light inbetween the inside of the step and the tank extension for the controls, 5. wrap dry paper towel on the tank controls as per above heel hard to check seals, 6. sail upwind hard to check tension of shrouds, should not go slack, if they do then check to make sure they can be tightened otherwise a simple or complex problem exists, 7. while sailing hard upwind, check for rudder creap (yea CREAP not creep), if he exists, no big problem lots of fixes, 8. consider spraying a hose at hull deck joints, hardware and ports to check for leaks, 9. what everyone else has or will say. alan
...they ain't perfect: 1. check for routine stuff as on any boat this age like standing and running rigging, sail condition, anchor and rhode condition, fitting of compartment hatches (my cockpit locker is a constant pia as it was misalligned at the factory), hull moisture and soft spots (on deck too), amateur repairs or electric work, too clean (to hide leaks) or too dirty, bedding of hardware, engine, 2. swing keel should work smoothly with effort and drop slowly when stopped and not get hung up, may be a bit of side to side wobble 3. roller furler may have been installed with tangs if so make sure headstay is not too long as it should have been shortened, 4. as mentioned check bilges (under rear birth and both sinks) when heeling hard and after doing such, the top of the tank (and accumulated water) can be seen in some boats by opening the teak step on the campanionway stairs and shining a light inbetween the inside of the step and the tank extension for the controls, 5. wrap dry paper towel on the tank controls as per above heel hard to check seals, 6. sail upwind hard to check tension of shrouds, should not go slack, if they do then check to make sure they can be tightened otherwise a simple or complex problem exists, 7. while sailing hard upwind, check for rudder creap (yea CREAP not creep), if he exists, no big problem lots of fixes, 8. consider spraying a hose at hull deck joints, hardware and ports to check for leaks, 9. what everyone else has or will say. alan
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