Advice on check valves / non-return lines

Nov 1, 2014
3
Freedom Freedom 28 Sloop Pasadena, MD
After a month of detective work, I'm pretty sure I've figured out the source for an alarming but not catastrophic amount of water coming into my bilge. I have a drain from the shower into a sump poised over the bilge; there is an electric bilge pump in the shower sump that drains to a through-hull just above the waterline. I believe water is flowing back into the sump through the drain hose and pump.

There is no seacock on the through-hull for the drain line, and there is no vented loop in the hose. There is no moisture around the throughhull or along the length of the hose between the sump and the hull. There is what appears to be a check-valve in the hose shortly after it exits the sump on its way out. I believe the checkvalve has failed - the boat is from 1987, and I've owned it for decade, I suspect it's original equipment. A week ago, I disconnected the hose from the pump inside the sump and put a wooden bung in it, tightly held with a hose clamp. Today, after 6 days, the sump and bilge are still dry but the wooden bung is soaked through.

I've acquired a plastic "in-line non-return" valve, some new hose and hose clamps. I'm also replacing the electric pump since the old one only works after you kick it. Any advice or thoughts as I set out to do this? How robust does the checkvalve have to be?

Do I also need to put a seacock on the through-hull? And/or vented loop? I've got a couple of other drain lines (from galley and head sinks) in the same situation, though none appear to be pulling in water at all, and they terminate well above the waterline, not like the shower sump which is below. I wasn't planning on hauling this winter, though as the water flowed in I've been reconsidering....

Nan
Freedom 28
 
Feb 10, 2004
4,138
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
My guess is that the original check valve is clogged with hair and soap and is no longer closing like it should. I don't think the shower sumps normally have check valves fro that very reason but in your case since the outlet is just above the water line, you certainly need something to stop water from entering.

I would add a vented loop as high as I could get it and remove the check valve. If you cannot get the loop at least 2' higher than the water line then I would keep the check valve also. Remember if you are heeling or have the rail in the water that outlet will be submerged.

If you do keep the check valve, be sure to antifreeze it when you winterize or you could really have a nasty leak in the Spring.
 
Mar 26, 2011
3,718
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
And if you leave a boat in the water through winter, check valves on sumps are a VERY bad idea; the valve will freeze and the boat may sink. Without a valve the water drains back into the sump, which does not freeze.
 
Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
Not clear: Is the shower sump "poised over the bilge" also the bilge pump? It doesn't sound like it?
 
Nov 1, 2014
3
Freedom Freedom 28 Sloop Pasadena, MD
And if you leave a boat in the water through winter, check valves on sumps are a VERY bad idea; the valve will freeze and the boat may sink. Without a valve the water drains back into the sump, which does not freeze.
No, the shower sump has a little electric bilge pump only for use when taking a shower. That's the line I think has a failed check valve, but plugging it off completely for the time being is not a problem. If the sump overflows it goes directly into the bilge. I've got a huge whale manual bilge pump that works great.

Nan
 
Nov 1, 2014
3
Freedom Freedom 28 Sloop Pasadena, MD
Thanks, antifreeze in the check valve is a great idea. That wasn't on the winterizing checklist and I haven't done it in 10 years. Duh. New item on the list.
 
May 24, 2004
7,174
CC 30 South Florida
Whether you choose a vented loop or to replace the check valve bear in mind that both of them need to be inspected periodically as both the vent and the valve can clog. My choice would be the vented loop if you have enough space to accommodate the rise.
 
Mar 26, 2011
3,718
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
Thanks, antifreeze in the check valve is a great idea. That wasn't on the winterizing checklist and I haven't done it in 10 years. Duh. New item on the list.
Actually, what I really meant was the main sump; main sumps should never have check valves in cold climates.

Yes, I pour glycol in the shower sump. If it was leaking down, it could never freeze.

My concern would be if there was a heavy snow. Is the drain so low it could be pressed below the waterline? If yes, it needs a seacock. Boats have sunk that way; had one go in our marina down due to a shower drain after a heavy snow ~ 10 years ago. Snowmatgedon pushed most boats down 3-5 inches.