I just bought a 1988 H23 and would like to add a roller furler so that I can single-hand her. In the end, I'll have all halyards running into the cockpit also. Any recommendations on brand, type, of roller furl? Any gotcha's I should be aware of? Thanks. -jim
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I just bought a 1988 H23 and would like to add a roller furler so that I can single-hand her. In the end, I'll have all halyards running into the cockpit also. Any recommendations on brand, type, of roller furl? Any gotcha's I should be aware of? Thanks. -jim
Gotcha is $$$
Not all furlers can be reefed. A good furler/ reefer unit for a small boat will cost around $800. It would be very advisable to take advantage and replace the headstay wire at this time. The headsail would need to be taken to a sail loft to prepare the luff to fit on the extrussion. Lastly a rigger will charge around $400 to perform the installation. You would be looking at around $1,800 to still fly your old headsail. Unless you can find a used unit and do the work yourself I would say it is not cost effective to add a furler unit to your boat. I have single handed many boats without furler units; it helps if you add a down haul line to drop that jib right from the cockpit. Attach a block to the bow fitting and run a 3/16 line through it attached to the halyard shackle and run the bitter end to the cockpit. When dropping the headsail just release the halyard and pull on the down haul pulling on the sheet to help the sail lie flat on deck.
Not all furlers can be reefed. A good furler/ reefer unit for a small boat will cost around $800. It would be very advisable to take advantage and replace the headstay wire at this time. The headsail would need to be taken to a sail loft to prepare the luff to fit on the extrussion. Lastly a rigger will charge around $400 to perform the installation. You would be looking at around $1,800 to still fly your old headsail. Unless you can find a used unit and do the work yourself I would say it is not cost effective to add a furler unit to your boat. I have single handed many boats without furler units; it helps if you add a down haul line to drop that jib right from the cockpit. Attach a block to the bow fitting and run a 3/16 line through it attached to the halyard shackle and run the bitter end to the cockpit. When dropping the headsail just release the halyard and pull on the down haul pulling on the sheet to help the sail lie flat on deck.
Gotcha is $$$
Not all furlers can be reefed. A good furler/ reefer unit for a small boat will cost around $800. It would be very advisable to take advantage and replace the headstay wire at this time. The headsail would need to be taken to a sail loft to prepare the luff to fit on the extrussion. Lastly a rigger will charge around $400 to perform the installation. You would be looking at around $1,800 to still fly your old headsail. Unless you can find a used unit and do the work yourself I would say it is not cost effective to add a furler unit to your boat. I have single handed many boats without furler units; it helps if you add a down haul line to drop that jib right from the cockpit. Attach a block to the bow fitting and run a 3/16 line through it attached to the halyard shackle and run the bitter end to the cockpit. When dropping the headsail just release the halyard and pull on the down haul pulling on the sheet to help the sail lie flat on deck.
Not all furlers can be reefed. A good furler/ reefer unit for a small boat will cost around $800. It would be very advisable to take advantage and replace the headstay wire at this time. The headsail would need to be taken to a sail loft to prepare the luff to fit on the extrussion. Lastly a rigger will charge around $400 to perform the installation. You would be looking at around $1,800 to still fly your old headsail. Unless you can find a used unit and do the work yourself I would say it is not cost effective to add a furler unit to your boat. I have single handed many boats without furler units; it helps if you add a down haul line to drop that jib right from the cockpit. Attach a block to the bow fitting and run a 3/16 line through it attached to the halyard shackle and run the bitter end to the cockpit. When dropping the headsail just release the halyard and pull on the down haul pulling on the sheet to help the sail lie flat on deck.
CDI furler in "Gear Here" dept.
There is a CDI furler for sale in "gear here" section for $250 plus some shipping. Extrusions could be cut to fit your boat and would work out to be a great addition. I've got to disagree w/Benny, anything that adds to your safety and comfort level with singlehanding your boat is a great idea and "cost effective" is a relative term, different to all of us!!! You will use your boat a lot more and feel safer in more variety of wind conditions with roller furling.
There is a CDI furler for sale in "gear here" section for $250 plus some shipping. Extrusions could be cut to fit your boat and would work out to be a great addition. I've got to disagree w/Benny, anything that adds to your safety and comfort level with singlehanding your boat is a great idea and "cost effective" is a relative term, different to all of us!!! You will use your boat a lot more and feel safer in more variety of wind conditions with roller furling.
CDI furler in "Gear Here" dept.
There is a CDI furler for sale in "gear here" section for $250 plus some shipping. Extrusions could be cut to fit your boat and would work out to be a great addition. I've got to disagree w/Benny, anything that adds to your safety and comfort level with singlehanding your boat is a great idea and "cost effective" is a relative term, different to all of us!!! You will use your boat a lot more and feel safer in more variety of wind conditions with roller furling.
There is a CDI furler for sale in "gear here" section for $250 plus some shipping. Extrusions could be cut to fit your boat and would work out to be a great addition. I've got to disagree w/Benny, anything that adds to your safety and comfort level with singlehanding your boat is a great idea and "cost effective" is a relative term, different to all of us!!! You will use your boat a lot more and feel safer in more variety of wind conditions with roller furling.
What I did
I added a down haul to my stock-original head sail because I feel like I want the flexibility to change head sails. Like put up a storm sail. So, I added a down haul to the head sail and the down haul leads back to the pit. I almost always am sailing alone so I can head into the wind and drop the head sail, no mater what head sail I have up with the down haul. Of course, this means that I have lead all of the halyards back to the pit. Easy to do. Since all of the halyards are lead back to the pit, I can reef very easily as well. It cost much less money to add a down haul than a roller furlling. But it depends on how you sail. If you don't think you will change sails much or do not have different sails, a furling head sail is really nice. Fair Winds, Brian Villa Villakula Hunter 23
I added a down haul to my stock-original head sail because I feel like I want the flexibility to change head sails. Like put up a storm sail. So, I added a down haul to the head sail and the down haul leads back to the pit. I almost always am sailing alone so I can head into the wind and drop the head sail, no mater what head sail I have up with the down haul. Of course, this means that I have lead all of the halyards back to the pit. Easy to do. Since all of the halyards are lead back to the pit, I can reef very easily as well. It cost much less money to add a down haul than a roller furlling. But it depends on how you sail. If you don't think you will change sails much or do not have different sails, a furling head sail is really nice. Fair Winds, Brian Villa Villakula Hunter 23
What I did
I added a down haul to my stock-original head sail because I feel like I want the flexibility to change head sails. Like put up a storm sail. So, I added a down haul to the head sail and the down haul leads back to the pit. I almost always am sailing alone so I can head into the wind and drop the head sail, no mater what head sail I have up with the down haul. Of course, this means that I have lead all of the halyards back to the pit. Easy to do. Since all of the halyards are lead back to the pit, I can reef very easily as well. It cost much less money to add a down haul than a roller furlling. But it depends on how you sail. If you don't think you will change sails much or do not have different sails, a furling head sail is really nice. Fair Winds, Brian Villa Villakula Hunter 23
I added a down haul to my stock-original head sail because I feel like I want the flexibility to change head sails. Like put up a storm sail. So, I added a down haul to the head sail and the down haul leads back to the pit. I almost always am sailing alone so I can head into the wind and drop the head sail, no mater what head sail I have up with the down haul. Of course, this means that I have lead all of the halyards back to the pit. Easy to do. Since all of the halyards are lead back to the pit, I can reef very easily as well. It cost much less money to add a down haul than a roller furlling. But it depends on how you sail. If you don't think you will change sails much or do not have different sails, a furling head sail is really nice. Fair Winds, Brian Villa Villakula Hunter 23
Solutioneering?
Solutioneering: developing a solution to a problem that doesn't really exist. This activity is has been elevated to a fine art by the guys in the marketing department. In my opinion, a roller furling headsail on an H23 falls into that category, unless of course you have some special condition, e.g., advanced age, physical disability, that limits your ability to leave the cockpit to perform routine sailing functions and return safely. People like roller furlers because they "enhance safety." In the middle of the Atlantic maybe, but let's look at a few facts about the H23: 1) most H23's are daysailed on inland or near-shore waters 2) most H23's are sailed in winds under 15 kt. 3) most H23's will never see wave heights above 3 ft. 4) if you keep watch, you won't be "surprised" by the weather 5) headsails fall freely if the sheaves and hanks are properly maintained 6) a jib downhaul won't prevent the doused headsail from blowing overboard 7) even with a downhaul, you still have to go forward to secure the headsail 8) every sheave or turning block you add is a potential place for a line to jam 9) roller furlers jam in the worst sea conditions and most inconvenient times 10) if the furler jams, you HAVE to leave the cockpit to clear it 11) if the furler jams, the sail probably won't furl completely and will flog 12) if you have never been on the foredeck, being forced to go there for the first time because of 9) and 10) with 11) is no fun, and may be dangerous 13) roller furlers complicate mast raising/lowering for trailering 14) reefing the mainsail is difficult with halyards run to the cockpit because the reefing line and rams-horn are still at the mast/gooseneck Instead, why not maintain your gear so the headsail douses by itself when the halyard is released, learn how to work at the mast and on the foredeck while single-handing in a fresh breeze and save your hard-earned cash for something more useful, like a smaller headsail for those really windy days, genoa tracks to improve headsail trim, a mainsail traveler or a week-long charter in The Grenadines? Ninety-five percent of people who buy roller furlers for small daysailers/weekender boats don't need them. Of course, that's just my opinion...I could be wrong. Peter H23 "Raven"
Solutioneering: developing a solution to a problem that doesn't really exist. This activity is has been elevated to a fine art by the guys in the marketing department. In my opinion, a roller furling headsail on an H23 falls into that category, unless of course you have some special condition, e.g., advanced age, physical disability, that limits your ability to leave the cockpit to perform routine sailing functions and return safely. People like roller furlers because they "enhance safety." In the middle of the Atlantic maybe, but let's look at a few facts about the H23: 1) most H23's are daysailed on inland or near-shore waters 2) most H23's are sailed in winds under 15 kt. 3) most H23's will never see wave heights above 3 ft. 4) if you keep watch, you won't be "surprised" by the weather 5) headsails fall freely if the sheaves and hanks are properly maintained 6) a jib downhaul won't prevent the doused headsail from blowing overboard 7) even with a downhaul, you still have to go forward to secure the headsail 8) every sheave or turning block you add is a potential place for a line to jam 9) roller furlers jam in the worst sea conditions and most inconvenient times 10) if the furler jams, you HAVE to leave the cockpit to clear it 11) if the furler jams, the sail probably won't furl completely and will flog 12) if you have never been on the foredeck, being forced to go there for the first time because of 9) and 10) with 11) is no fun, and may be dangerous 13) roller furlers complicate mast raising/lowering for trailering 14) reefing the mainsail is difficult with halyards run to the cockpit because the reefing line and rams-horn are still at the mast/gooseneck Instead, why not maintain your gear so the headsail douses by itself when the halyard is released, learn how to work at the mast and on the foredeck while single-handing in a fresh breeze and save your hard-earned cash for something more useful, like a smaller headsail for those really windy days, genoa tracks to improve headsail trim, a mainsail traveler or a week-long charter in The Grenadines? Ninety-five percent of people who buy roller furlers for small daysailers/weekender boats don't need them. Of course, that's just my opinion...I could be wrong. Peter H23 "Raven"
Another suggestioin
On my 23.5 a 3/8" line pulls the jib down to the deck and one of the jib clew lines is pulled tight into a cockpit jam cleat which helps keep most of the jib on the deck until I can go foreward to secure the sail with shock cord attached to the bow cleats. Hope this gives you some ideas of your own.
On my 23.5 a 3/8" line pulls the jib down to the deck and one of the jib clew lines is pulled tight into a cockpit jam cleat which helps keep most of the jib on the deck until I can go foreward to secure the sail with shock cord attached to the bow cleats. Hope this gives you some ideas of your own.
anchor locker is a problem
I am in the process of installing a CDI furler on my H23. The arrangement of the anchor locker doors and the forestay chain plate is a problem. It comes down to modifying the doors or getting an extension arrangement to allow the furler spool to be installed above the doors, high enough to allow the locker doors to open. I'm going with the chain plate solution to ensure that I can keep a bit more rain and other water out of the locker. The forestay also needs to be shortened. None of this is a big deal, but they are just something to be dealt with.
I am in the process of installing a CDI furler on my H23. The arrangement of the anchor locker doors and the forestay chain plate is a problem. It comes down to modifying the doors or getting an extension arrangement to allow the furler spool to be installed above the doors, high enough to allow the locker doors to open. I'm going with the chain plate solution to ensure that I can keep a bit more rain and other water out of the locker. The forestay also needs to be shortened. None of this is a big deal, but they are just something to be dealt with.
I just added a CDI
As discussed in an earlier thread. I opted to go with modifying the anchor locker doors and put the furler in the locker, cause honstly, the doors don't keep out much rain anyway. Not to mention what money I saved went into the ball bearing option for the FF2, and between the lines, sail modification and cost of the unit I brought it all in at under a grand. I'll have to post some pictures when I have time to take a few. Pete Suah raises good points, as he always does. But I feel what it comes to is what makes it comfortable for you. Last year was my first year sailing and I dealt all year with the hank on jib and genoa, and quite frankly, it wasn't much fun at all, especially when a convoy of sportfisherman go roaring by (common on the Delaware) when you're working the foredeck. Being skipper, and the only one with a real clue what I'm doing (working on teaching the family) the more time I spend in the cockpit in control of things the more comfortable I was and just could relax. So I went with the furler this year.
As discussed in an earlier thread. I opted to go with modifying the anchor locker doors and put the furler in the locker, cause honstly, the doors don't keep out much rain anyway. Not to mention what money I saved went into the ball bearing option for the FF2, and between the lines, sail modification and cost of the unit I brought it all in at under a grand. I'll have to post some pictures when I have time to take a few. Pete Suah raises good points, as he always does. But I feel what it comes to is what makes it comfortable for you. Last year was my first year sailing and I dealt all year with the hank on jib and genoa, and quite frankly, it wasn't much fun at all, especially when a convoy of sportfisherman go roaring by (common on the Delaware) when you're working the foredeck. Being skipper, and the only one with a real clue what I'm doing (working on teaching the family) the more time I spend in the cockpit in control of things the more comfortable I was and just could relax. So I went with the furler this year.
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