Adding Power Cleats and Deck Organizer

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Dec 10, 2003
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Hunter 30_88-94 Edmonds, WA
I've searched the archives, and need more info on two parts of a project on a 1990 Hunter30G I'm adding a rigid boom vang and am running the control line, topping lift, spinnaker halyard and outhaul down the port side which came equipped with organizer, line clutches and winch only on the starbard side. The port side is supposedly set up as a mirror image to the starboard side, with embedded aluminum mounting plates. I think most of the midsized boats of this vintage were so equipped. 1) I purchased a Garhauer four sheeve organizer, same as the orginal equipment. Most of what I read in the archives about mounting new hardware says to drill and tap, using 1/4" x 20 machine bolts. The Garhauer organizer comes with monster bolts, 5/16" diameter, protruding 1 1/2 inches below the bottom surface. Anybody installed one of these? Drill and tap away? There is no access through the headliner from below to install a backing plate and bolts. 2) Anybody know how big the mounting plates are in the aft section of the cabin roof (adjacent to the companion way)? My starboard rope clutches are mounted far enough forward to feed the cabin top winch---right up against the dodger window (yes, I know the dodger came afterward, but you get the idea). I don't need to use a winch on the port side, so I'm using Spinlock power cleats instead of clutches. I'd like to mount them as close to the aft edge of the cabin as possible. Also, on the advice of a Brion Toss article, I want to move my traveler control line cam cleats to the same location. Anybody mounted hardware in this area?
 
S

scott

Hey Dean

This may be redundant if my earlier post shows up. Anyway, common wisdom is to thru bolt all the cabin top stuff whether there is or isn't a backing plate. I moved my traveler cam cleats inside the dodger to the cabin top about where you want to locate. There was a backing plate, but I thru bolted with a generous flat washer and cap nuts up against the interior liner. The trick is to get the bolt length just right for the cap nuts and also not to tighten so much that you squash the coring or crack the liner. If for some reason you want to test for a plate before install just drill with a tiny bit down about 1/2 inch and you will hit the plate if there and will be able to stop before you drill through the interior liner. Drill and tap method is generally reserved for mast and boom projects. Scott
 
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