I'm adding a manual water faucet in the galley of my Passage 42. Can I plumb the water line into the faucet line under the sink, or should I plumb it in front of the freshwater pressure pump? Thanks!
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IMHO...
...if you put it AFTER the pressure pump (between the pump and the galley), that means that you would have to have the pump turned on in order to draw water past the pressure pump from the water tank. Then as soon as you pump the manual pump, the pressure pump would engage because of the drop in water pressure in the water line. No telling what that would do to your manual pump. ...if you put it BEFORE the pressure pump (between the water tank and the pressure pump), then, I expect that this could effect to operation of the pressure pump. ...seems to me that a direct, dedicated water line would be the best bet, here.
...if you put it AFTER the pressure pump (between the pump and the galley), that means that you would have to have the pump turned on in order to draw water past the pressure pump from the water tank. Then as soon as you pump the manual pump, the pressure pump would engage because of the drop in water pressure in the water line. No telling what that would do to your manual pump. ...if you put it BEFORE the pressure pump (between the water tank and the pressure pump), then, I expect that this could effect to operation of the pressure pump. ...seems to me that a direct, dedicated water line would be the best bet, here.
Before the pump
Peggy, Though you regularly give wonderful advice, I believe you're wrong about this idea. The purpose of adding a manual pump/faucet is to use without the electric water pump or if the pump fails. Therefore, you are manually doing the pumping of water and the line needs to be plumbed before the electric water pump. Otherwise, you won't be able to pump water manually through an electric water pump that's not actively pumping. I've done this on my H410 with good results. It's a fairly easy project and one that's quite worthwhile for anyone to have. Also, it's not a bad idea to have a spare electric water pump if you're away from home port much at all. They are a stock item at Boat US and West Marine at a cost of about $130. Very easy to change on most boats. Chris Webb s/v Grand Cru II
Peggy, Though you regularly give wonderful advice, I believe you're wrong about this idea. The purpose of adding a manual pump/faucet is to use without the electric water pump or if the pump fails. Therefore, you are manually doing the pumping of water and the line needs to be plumbed before the electric water pump. Otherwise, you won't be able to pump water manually through an electric water pump that's not actively pumping. I've done this on my H410 with good results. It's a fairly easy project and one that's quite worthwhile for anyone to have. Also, it's not a bad idea to have a spare electric water pump if you're away from home port much at all. They are a stock item at Boat US and West Marine at a cost of about $130. Very easy to change on most boats. Chris Webb s/v Grand Cru II
oops...I misunderstood what he wants to do
You're right., Chris..if he wants to pump water out the tank manually, he needs to tap into the line ahead of the pump. MY question is, WHY--if he has pressurized water--would he want to add a manual hand or foot pump that also uses fresh water. If the issue is fresh water conservation, it would make more sense to add a sea water pump and change the fresh water faucets to the spring loaded kind so that people can't just let the fresh water run. Manual pumps don't save as much water as people think they do. Depending on the type of pump, you get water on both the up and the down stroke...and the amount of water pumped with each stroke can't be adjusted. So if you only need to wet your toothbrush, but the pump delivers 6-8 oz per stroke, you waste at least half of it. A lot of blue water sailors have a sea water pump in the galley for things like dishwashing (or at least rinsing 'em off)...then switch to fresh to rinse the sea water and soapsuds off. That makes a LOT more sense to me than adding a manual pump to the fresh water system. And, I'm not 100% certain that a manual pump ahead of the pump won't interfere with the electric pump's ability to prime...any kind of air leak or failure in the manual pump could shut down your entire fresh water system till you fix it. I'd give the whole idea a little more thought...
You're right., Chris..if he wants to pump water out the tank manually, he needs to tap into the line ahead of the pump. MY question is, WHY--if he has pressurized water--would he want to add a manual hand or foot pump that also uses fresh water. If the issue is fresh water conservation, it would make more sense to add a sea water pump and change the fresh water faucets to the spring loaded kind so that people can't just let the fresh water run. Manual pumps don't save as much water as people think they do. Depending on the type of pump, you get water on both the up and the down stroke...and the amount of water pumped with each stroke can't be adjusted. So if you only need to wet your toothbrush, but the pump delivers 6-8 oz per stroke, you waste at least half of it. A lot of blue water sailors have a sea water pump in the galley for things like dishwashing (or at least rinsing 'em off)...then switch to fresh to rinse the sea water and soapsuds off. That makes a LOT more sense to me than adding a manual pump to the fresh water system. And, I'm not 100% certain that a manual pump ahead of the pump won't interfere with the electric pump's ability to prime...any kind of air leak or failure in the manual pump could shut down your entire fresh water system till you fix it. I'd give the whole idea a little more thought...
Also add a Shut off
You also might want to add a shut off valve when you tee off the water line before the pump but after the manifold, just in case.
You also might want to add a shut off valve when you tee off the water line before the pump but after the manifold, just in case.
Thanks for the answers
Thanks all! Good help. I will install a "T" in front of the pump with a shut off valve to close it off if needed. Peggy, the answer to your "why" question is- Oh, I don't know, just seems like a good idea to have access to fresh water that doesn't rely on electricity and pumps. It's a back-up, like having jumper cables just in case you have to jump start the boat from the house batteries. It will be simple, will cost less than $75, take me about an hour, learn more about my boat, make me feel good about accomplishing a boat project, and give me a reason to drink a beer when done. Also, when I am old, retired, and sailing in salt water I can replumb it to seawater (I liked your idea to do that). But for now, it's a hobby!
Thanks all! Good help. I will install a "T" in front of the pump with a shut off valve to close it off if needed. Peggy, the answer to your "why" question is- Oh, I don't know, just seems like a good idea to have access to fresh water that doesn't rely on electricity and pumps. It's a back-up, like having jumper cables just in case you have to jump start the boat from the house batteries. It will be simple, will cost less than $75, take me about an hour, learn more about my boat, make me feel good about accomplishing a boat project, and give me a reason to drink a beer when done. Also, when I am old, retired, and sailing in salt water I can replumb it to seawater (I liked your idea to do that). But for now, it's a hobby!
Okey dokey...
However, once you're a few miles offshore, Lake Michigan is clean water. You might be further ahead putting the raw water pump in now...You'd still your back-up access to fresh water that doesn't rely on electricity and pumps, plus an endless supply. It will still be simple, cost less than $75, take about an hour, teach you more about your boat, make you feel good about accomplishing a boat project, and give you a reason to drink a beer when done. And if you can figure out how to plumb it to providwwater to the galley OR refill the hot water tank (that one should teach you a whole lot about your boat!), you'd feel so good when you're done you'd have to drink TWO beers!
However, once you're a few miles offshore, Lake Michigan is clean water. You might be further ahead putting the raw water pump in now...You'd still your back-up access to fresh water that doesn't rely on electricity and pumps, plus an endless supply. It will still be simple, cost less than $75, take about an hour, teach you more about your boat, make you feel good about accomplishing a boat project, and give you a reason to drink a beer when done.
And if you can figure out how to plumb it to providwwater to the galley OR refill the hot water tank (that one should teach you a whole lot about your boat!), you'd feel so good when you're done you'd have to drink TWO beers! ...or go for the whole enchillada
...you could go slam crazy and add a manual freshwater pump and a separate saltwater hand pump. Some bluewater cruising boats are set up this way. While you're at it, you may as well add a water line to the anchor well for washing off ground tackle. This might warrant a six pack of brewskies. Chris Webb
...you could go slam crazy and add a manual freshwater pump and a separate saltwater hand pump. Some bluewater cruising boats are set up this way. While you're at it, you may as well add a water line to the anchor well for washing off ground tackle. This might warrant a six pack of brewskies. Chris Webb
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