Adding Gas Strut to Selden Rodkicker

[daddygo]

2006 Hunter 36. My boom was resting on the archway and therefore the blocks, which were showing signs of stress. I bought the gas strut for the rodkicker and installed as directed. Now, with no downward pull from the rodkicker tackle, the boom lifts way above horizontal, about 25 degrees.

I can get it to sit horizontal and above the archway, but this seems to put the gas strut in a very compressed mode most of the time. Wondering if this will shorten its service life?

Anyone have any experience installing one of these and trimming it?

 

[artboas]

Obvious question

Why aren't you using a topping lift?

2006 Hunter 36. My boom was resting on the archway and therefore the blocks, which were showing signs of stress. I bought the gas strut for the rodkicker and installed as directed. Now, with no downward pull from the rodkicker tackle, the boom lifts way above horizontal, about 25 degrees.

I can get it to sit horizontal and above the archway, but this seems to put the gas strut in a very compressed mode most of the time. Wondering if this will shorten its service life?

Anyone have any experience installing one of these and trimming it?

 

[Butch23065]

I installed a gas strut in mine about 9 or 10 years ago. It works better than the topping lift when you are trying to make frequent adjustments, like racing. The gas strut will allow you to let the top twist out or hold the boom at the proper angle for furling. The boomvang controls the angle. Since the boomvang is led back to the cockpit it is easier to make adjustments than going to the mast and adjusting the topping lift. We have raced our H41 AC for about 8 years and the boomvang is adjusted as much as the jib leads.
As far as trimming to length, just follow the directions. I would leave it long try it and if necessary trim more off. You can shorten a lot of ties but putting some back is not going to be easy.

Butch

 

[Dan_Y]

Butch - Is your gas strut still working, as in pressurized? Dan

 

[daddygo]

Hi Artboas... reasonable question, the boat came with the rigid vang which eliminates the need for a topping lift, if it has a gas strut. The expense wasn't much, so I thought I would try it out.

Butch... pretty much what my plan was. Try it out as is, experiment, and trim the spacer down if I don't like it. Just wondered if anyone had been through this journey before and had some insight to share. Thanks for your comments.

 

[Butch23065]

Yes it is. I know some have failed but mine is still working.

 

[Dan_Y]

My mainsail requires the vang to be in kickstand mode when we furl the sail. I assume you release the vang a little when the sail is in to keep pressure off the strut?

 

[uncledom]

It's gas, not spring, so if the gas doesn't leak out it will continue to work. Hunter actually used the solid boom vang as a stopper so the boom couldn't hit the arch. So you should adjust it so that fully retracted the boom can't hit the arch. I added the gas piston to mine right after I got the boat and changed the "topping lift" to a second main halyard. I use it for heavy lifting and as a spare should my main halyard have a problem. Dirt damaging the seals would be your biggest problem but it is pretty much out of harms way. It's much simpler to adjust main sheet twist via boom angle with the vang versus the topping lift.

 

[daddygo]

@ Dann Y... That's the root of my question. If I release all the compression on the gas strut, the boom is lifted up to about a 30 degree angle, resting about 5 feet above the arch. To keep it at a nominal horizontal level, the strut has to be compressed quite a bit with the tackle. I was concerned this was going to shorten the life of the strut since that is were the boom is required for a majority of its resting life. Was wondering if anyone shortened the spacer as the instructions allow, and to what level they trimmed it for neutral compression rest. On the other hand, all the gas struts in our hatchback cars are kept in their compressed mode a majority of their service life.