Adding Air Conditioning

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thaeni

.
Sep 28, 2008
120
Hunter 33.5 Chicago
Looking for some information on adding Air to a 1992 33.5 Hunter.
1. What size unit will it take to cool a 33 footer ?
2. Where is the best place for the components ?
Thanks
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,456
-na -NA Anywhere USA
You will need others to advise on placement but a couple of suggestions.

1. 12000 BTU unit should be fine.
2. Add the condensator which sucks water from the condensation pan and puts it
into the overboard discharge so no water goes into the bilge. Mermaid item.
3. If cutting holes in the bulkheads, enlargen them some to make sure the duck
work will not be pinched nor crunched. You may want to put plum or the black
cut corrigated piping that you can get at Walmart or hardware stores around the
holes to avoid cutting the duck work when running that thru.
4. Make sure your main air discharge is within 6 feet of the unit.
5. If running a long duck work, you may have to put in a inline blower and it should be
powered with the water pump to help prevent back pressures.

Crazy dave condon
 
Oct 30, 2011
542
klidescope 30t norfolk
7000 to 9000btu is enough don't want too much as the air will be cooled too fast without removal of the humity the unit goes under the starboard couch just beside water heater cut return into wood run 3 ducts 4" one to front cabin one rear and one under sink to end of island by hatch high as possible ya really need to cur dedicated thru hull for ac pump but ya can use exist head thru hull just install check valves on each run water out along bilge hose location
 
Apr 5, 2011
113
Hunter 34 Tilghman Island, Md
I have a Hunter 34 on the Chesapeake bay. 9k BTU will not be enough. My boat has a 12k BTU system and on hot days (mid 90's) it can only cool the boat off to the lower 80's. I'm currently looking at units in the 16-18k BTU size. A search of yachtworld earlier this year showed that most hunters (32-34' length) that listed AC & size had 16k units on board.

This has decent sizing info http://www.dometic.com/enus/Americas/USA/Marine/Cruisair/How-to-select-AirContioning-for-your-boat/

Currently I'm looking at upgrading the system to a 16-18k BTU unit.
 
Apr 15, 2011
22
Hunter 34 Lake Ouachita
I have an 84 hunter 34 and I installed a 6500btu window unit in the aft starboard bulkhead, venting to the starboard lazzarette. It works great, doesn't leak water, and total cost wall, stain, a/c and trim was $260.00.
 
Oct 14, 2005
2,191
1983 Hunter H34 North East, MD
Thaeni & Saillife...

I also have 12,000 BTU AC unit in my H34 that can struggle with mid 90's temps on the Chesapeake.

A solution I found that works great, and is good for 15 to 20 degrees reduction from ambient iniside the boat is to obtain hatch cover canvas. I got mine from this site's store. A bit pricy, but they were a life-saver this past weekend with its high heat and humidity!

For Saillife, this may be a much less expensive route than an upgrade.
 

Blitz

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Jul 10, 2007
709
Seidelmann 34 Atlantic Highlands, NJ
Dan Johnson said:
A solution I found that works great, and is good for 15 to 20 degrees reduction from ambient iniside the boat is to obtain hatch cover canvas. I got mine from this site's store. A bit pricy, but they were a life-saver this past weekend with its high heat and humidity!

For Saillife, this may be a much less expensive route than an upgrade.
Hatch covers are a must and work great on all boats whether you have AC or not. I haven't had any issues from mine and leave them on all summer, never blow, off either so of you measure correctly these are worth every penny. (I got them from this site about five years ago and they still look new.)
 
Jun 22, 2006
57
Hunter H33 Topeka, KS
Be sure the discharge vents are placed high and that the point up to allow the cool air to descend. Do not place them at floor level- it will never cool the boat if the vents are placed low.
 
May 28, 2009
764
Hunter 376 Pensacola, FL
The answer is - it depends. How hot and humid does it get where you live? Here in NW Florida, our 16K unit on our H336 can just barely manage when it's 95 degrees outside and the sun is shining. I'm even considering a separate 5K unit just for the aft cabin to help out on really hot days. As for location, I think the usual place is under one of the settees in the main salon, with the seawater pump and through-hull in the bildge. Don't even get me started on those who cut big square holes in their boats and put window units in. There ought to be a law.
 

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Jun 25, 2012
942
hunter 356 Kemah,the Republic of Texas
Looking for some information on adding Air to a 1992 33.5 Hunter.
1. What size unit will it take to cool a 33 footer ?
2. Where is the best place for the components ?
Thanks
Don't forget an a/c vent in the head if possible.

Copied from previous postings I have made ....Thought re-posting this for you may help you in deciding what is best to do for you and avoid any mistakes.
FYI..Undate.....Started with 16,500btu cruise arrr....when boat was new. It die after about 5 years. Why it died so soon, well that is another story."Hint" make sure when you by a brand new boat that the unit the factory installs is actually a new unit. There that's all I gonna say!
When I replaced the cruise arrr I found a used 16,500 from the mermaid factory refurbish back to new condition. Before the cruise arrr died the year before I found a new returned 5200btu that the mermaid factory had checked out and re-listed on eBay at almost 1/2 price. I installed it in the forward cabin. Shortly after I got the 16500btu mermaid replacement , found another 5200btu same way and snatched it up. What I have was created over a period of time and on a budget.
Okay read the rest.....
RR

On my H356. I have a 16.500btu under settee in front of gallery sink ducted for main saloon and forward cabin and then I installed a 5200btu. next to it under the starboard settee. That way I could utilized factory ducting to aft cabin which then feeds around under aft bunk to head. Under v-berth forward locker port side another 5200btu with duct going going up back side of port closet locker to a distribution box with a 4" round adjustable dampener to forward cabin and then a small rectangular vent to main saloon port side. All mermaids are using separate little giant raw water pumps. And can operate independently of each other. So now I have lots of redundancy and options for keeping cool down here in the republic of Texas on Galveston bay.

I got several of my pumps from here. http://search.aquaticeco.com/index?D=little+gaint&Nty=1&N=0&Dk=0&Ntt=little+gaint

A Good source while shopping around. Or you can check out eBay.

Reason I like little giant is one of my pumps as been faithfully doing its job for about 12 years. Make sure you pick out the model for use on saltwater aquariums. Also pick the largest pump your budget can go. The 12 yr old model I have will suck the chrome off a Buick!

Also do not forget to install a venturi at the a/c discharge sea-cock. http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/1546/Turbo-Venturi-Injectors

This will keep the a/c pan sucked dry. Or let the pan drain to bilge and then put the suction hose in bilge. Tryed it both ways, finally settled in on pan option.

Rick thanks for asking. Never had a problem....All 3 a/c Discharge fittings are at least 10 to 12"s above the water line. There is a proper sea-cock on each fitting. Just looped the small suction tube about 12"s or so above sea-cock. Keep in mind the a/c discharge is only under water when boat is heeled over and at that point we are doing at least 5 knots. Have you ever sailed a small day-sailor with a self bailing cockpit. Same principle works here. Also when heeled the main a/c unit is at the higher point. Now the smaller unit is not, it is under the starboard settee and is right next to hull. It was the one I was a little concern about, but so far no issues. Both the discharge fittings are at the max beam of vessel. The 3rd unit is in forward cabin under v-berth to port side it sits a bit higher. I believe the pan is at water line. The discharge for it is right next to unit. I get great suction when units are running and when sailing as the boat is moving along. The only time water could come back up the tube is if I had a knock down. At that point there are bigger problems. I would recommend you handle and take care of how you install this venturi pipe. The plastic is supposed to be pretty strong but it does not hurt to use reasonable care that it is in a safe location along the hull. It would be nice if it was made of better plastic. What is really nice for me is with the male and female threads the piece threads right in to the sea-cock and the other end threads right to the fitting on the hose. Can be remove and put back in,in about 5 minutes. I have had some thought about glassing over the fitting and reinforcing it. But have found it not necessary. Mine have been in use for above 3 to 4 years now and have not shown any signs of cracking. Other then that they work fantastic. Some of my neighbors have gone this way. One neighbor set their boat up this way after they had to spend big bucks replacing a portion of there cabin sole because of the a/c.
 

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