my boat does not currently have a topping lift. I want to add one and I am wondering if, at the masthead, I should have a fixed block, or a swinging block on a short wire pendant. how is yours rigged? what works best?
adding a topping lift, how best to rig it?
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The Case FOR a Topping Lift
Many people will write to tell you how unnecessary a topping lift is and what a nuisance it is flapping against the sail and how, with a rigid vang, a topping lift is redundant etc.
My boat came with a plastic covered 'liifeline' wire topping lift.
I kept it - even though I subsequently fitted a rigid vang.
Apart from the main halyard it is the only other line going to the mast head.
If you ever have a problem with the main halyard it is a simple matter to use the topping lift to pull through a thicker line to go up on in a bosun's chair. So make sure the blocks at mast head and heel are man enough.
Also if,like me, you don't feel comfortable in a chair unless you have TWO lines attached - one for hauling up and the other as a safety line - then a TL is the only way.
And I have never seen a masthead fitting without a sheave for a TL so yours is probably there already.
The vang needs to be set up so you can get to the boom so inevitably the weight is only supported by the spring in the vang. When on the mooring, I bowse the mainsheet down hard to stop the boom swinging 24/7 in passing washes and I do not like the boom being so low. So I use the TL to lift the boom clear of heads in the cockpit and then even the rainwater drains towards the mast.
But I guess you knew all this already!
Many people will write to tell you how unnecessary a topping lift is and what a nuisance it is flapping against the sail and how, with a rigid vang, a topping lift is redundant etc.
My boat came with a plastic covered 'liifeline' wire topping lift.
I kept it - even though I subsequently fitted a rigid vang.
Apart from the main halyard it is the only other line going to the mast head.
If you ever have a problem with the main halyard it is a simple matter to use the topping lift to pull through a thicker line to go up on in a bosun's chair. So make sure the blocks at mast head and heel are man enough.
Also if,like me, you don't feel comfortable in a chair unless you have TWO lines attached - one for hauling up and the other as a safety line - then a TL is the only way.
And I have never seen a masthead fitting without a sheave for a TL so yours is probably there already.
The vang needs to be set up so you can get to the boom so inevitably the weight is only supported by the spring in the vang. When on the mooring, I bowse the mainsheet down hard to stop the boom swinging 24/7 in passing washes and I do not like the boom being so low. So I use the TL to lift the boom clear of heads in the cockpit and then even the rainwater drains towards the mast.
But I guess you knew all this already!
I added a topping lift this summer. I used a double braided 5/16 line fastened to the mast head then to a block on the boom then forward to a jam cleat forward of the bimini. It was an easy simple installation and works well for me. I have thought of running a new line to the cockpit, however, for what I use it for that would be a waste of effort. I take the boat to different lakes a couple of times a year and that would be just one more item to disconnect when removing the boom for travel.
I drilled another hole in my chicken head and bolted in another sheave for the topping lift. Screwed an eyebolt into the end of the boom, and put a snaphook on the 1/4" line. Works fine for me. -Paul
My little X boat has a TL cleated at the base of the mast, but I've just recently added a small block to end of the TL line at the boom end, with two parts of line to the boom. I store the boom high, above head height, and often forget to lower the TL before raising the main. Now, I can do that from the cockpit (main halyard is also led back), so I don't have to go forward in a seaway, which isn't easy on this boat.
I don't really need the block, and it flails about against the sail sometimes, and I'll probably rework it so there's a small loop for the boom cleat at storage height. I use a stopper knot at the end through a small strap eye on the boom to set the lower elevation, for sailing. It doesn't get any easier than that - uncleat the line and let the boom drop to the end of the line for sailing, pull it back in and cleat it (or hook the loop I haven't put in yet) onto the cleat for high storage, all from the helm.
I could use a piece of line or wire without bringing it over a sheave to the mast base, but the hardware is already there, and it's not hurting anything to keep it that way, so that's the way it will stay.
I don't really need the block, and it flails about against the sail sometimes, and I'll probably rework it so there's a small loop for the boom cleat at storage height. I use a stopper knot at the end through a small strap eye on the boom to set the lower elevation, for sailing. It doesn't get any easier than that - uncleat the line and let the boom drop to the end of the line for sailing, pull it back in and cleat it (or hook the loop I haven't put in yet) onto the cleat for high storage, all from the helm.
I could use a piece of line or wire without bringing it over a sheave to the mast base, but the hardware is already there, and it's not hurting anything to keep it that way, so that's the way it will stay.
I doubt anybody will be going up the mast on your Mac 25 so there really is no need to rig it like a halyard would be rigged. I imagine that there isn't an extra sheave or even space for one anyway.
The simplest TL could be to simply fix one end of a plastic coated wire or even a small diameter line at the top of the mast and attach a small block to the other end, which would terminate only 1' to 2' above the end of the boom. Fix a small diameter (1/4") line to the end of the boom and run it through the block at the end of the TL wire and then back down through a small cheek block that you can fix to the side of your boom at the end. The line runs forward to cleat that you can fix on the boom somewhere forward. How far forward depends on your preference. I have mine too close to the mast and have to get on the coach roof to uncleat and cleat. It would be much simpler to put the cleat on the boom where you can reach it from the cockpit. When I loosen my TP, I can have some line drooping below the boom, but it has never really bothered me enough to change it.
With this arrangement there is no need for a line running the full length of the mast up and down and it should be much easier to take apart for trailering. Some people prefer to rig it like a halyard so they can raise and lower the end of the boom like hoisting a halyard, and because they like to consider the TL a spare halyard. On a small boat with a very light boom, I think it is overkill.
The simplest TL could be to simply fix one end of a plastic coated wire or even a small diameter line at the top of the mast and attach a small block to the other end, which would terminate only 1' to 2' above the end of the boom. Fix a small diameter (1/4") line to the end of the boom and run it through the block at the end of the TL wire and then back down through a small cheek block that you can fix to the side of your boom at the end. The line runs forward to cleat that you can fix on the boom somewhere forward. How far forward depends on your preference. I have mine too close to the mast and have to get on the coach roof to uncleat and cleat. It would be much simpler to put the cleat on the boom where you can reach it from the cockpit. When I loosen my TP, I can have some line drooping below the boom, but it has never really bothered me enough to change it.
With this arrangement there is no need for a line running the full length of the mast up and down and it should be much easier to take apart for trailering. Some people prefer to rig it like a halyard so they can raise and lower the end of the boom like hoisting a halyard, and because they like to consider the TL a spare halyard. On a small boat with a very light boom, I think it is overkill.
Many boats have a short topping lift attached to the back stay. I had one on my J-36. less weight aloft, not hitting the leach. less weight, etc. I raced and cruised on it. Simple and did the job. Short line with a hook at the end. Or longer and run through the end of the boom. Disconnect to go sailing and tie it to the stern pulpit.
rigging a topping lift my 2c
I like hewebb`s Idea Its simple and adjustable and basically the same as mine. Using coated or uncoated wire is your choice. I opted for uncoated In slapping against the mainsal for the last 10 years or so, no damage has been done
I like hewebb`s Idea Its simple and adjustable and basically the same as mine. Using coated or uncoated wire is your choice. I opted for uncoated In slapping against the mainsal for the last 10 years or so, no damage has been done
My topping lift terminates at the mast head and there is no sheave to run it down to the deck. However, a block could be added that would allow me to do so and it's something I have considered. To make mine adjustable in its current configuration, I just tied a taught line hitch around the standing end after passing the line through the clip at the end of the boom. Works fine for setting the boom height or providing slack once the sail is raised.
Some use a block configuration to do this, but I don't want a block swinging up there, possibly chafing the sail.
Others run the topping lift through a cheek block on the boom, then to a jam cleat, which seems like a handy option if the line terminates at the mast head.
Some use a block configuration to do this, but I don't want a block swinging up there, possibly chafing the sail.
Others run the topping lift through a cheek block on the boom, then to a jam cleat, which seems like a handy option if the line terminates at the mast head.
We added a topping lift to our Mac....
... with a single block on the chickenhead ....
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor/rigging-3.html
...It was a great addition as we anchor every night out and we can pull the ....
...boom up and out of the way and it does all the other things a topping lift can do.
Latter I changed the single block out for...
.... a double block, bottom left arrow, so that we had another uphaul available to use with...
...the anchor sail. We cruise so don't notice any difference in weight aloft.
The Endeavour has a single line down from the top of the mast for a topping lift as described above by others and it works fine on that boat since....
.. the boom is not down in the way on anchor or underway like the Mac's. Different boats, different needs, different solutions,
Sum
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]============================[/FONT]
Our Endeavour 37
Our MacGregor 26-S Pages
Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida
Mac-Venture Links
... with a single block on the chickenhead ....
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor/rigging-3.html
...It was a great addition as we anchor every night out and we can pull the ....
...boom up and out of the way and it does all the other things a topping lift can do.
Latter I changed the single block out for...
.... a double block, bottom left arrow, so that we had another uphaul available to use with...
...the anchor sail. We cruise so don't notice any difference in weight aloft.
The Endeavour has a single line down from the top of the mast for a topping lift as described above by others and it works fine on that boat since....
.. the boom is not down in the way on anchor or underway like the Mac's. Different boats, different needs, different solutions,
Sum
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]============================[/FONT]
Our Endeavour 37
Our MacGregor 26-S Pages
Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida
Mac-Venture Links
thank you for all of the ideas. all I want to be able to do is hoist and drop the sail without messing with the pigtail wire all the time. we anchor out a lot so a topping lift would make it convenient for sail handling and it would be immensely better when reefing the main. it seems from reading all the different ways to rig one, for a basic boom supporting line, the most efficient way to rig one would be to terminate at the chickenhead then come down to the end of the boom thru a cheek block and then, either to a cleat on the boom, or all the way to the mast, thru a block and then down to a cabintop camcleat with all the other lines... and its one less line slapping against the mast. (as opposed to a line up the mast to a block and then back down to terminate at the boom end)
I think that if I should ever need to go up the mast in a bosuns chair, I could use either the main or jib halyard. I cant imagine ever needing to go up the mast when both halyards are in use.
I think that if I should ever need to go up the mast in a bosuns chair, I could use either the main or jib halyard. I cant imagine ever needing to go up the mast when both halyards are in use.
That's where I'd stop. If you can reach the boom from the cockpit, there's no real utility in continuing on to the boom base, to the mast, and back to the cockpit. My boom is light enough to just lift with one hand, and cleat with the other, to raise it high for dock storage (head room). A stopper knot lets me uncleat and lower to the knot for sailing.
The less thinking, the better, and I only have to undo the stopper knot to remove the boom for trailering, though some sort of quick disconnect (snap shackle, carabiner, whatever) could also be used to speed it up even more, I suppose.
Oh, and I don't even use a cheek block - just a small horn cleat on one side, and a small eye strap on the other (2-parts to a small block on the end of the TL line), though I'm going to eliminate the block the next time I'm out on the boat.
Here are a couple of quick CAD sketches of what I'm talking about. The one with the block is what I have now, and the other is what I'll probably change it to. There was a small eye strap on the boom already, for the TL. After adding the block to the end of the TL line, I passed one end of the 1/4" line through the eye strap and stopper knotted it. The other goes through the open center of a small cleat, also with a stopper knot. This short line is just long enough to give me the high/low range I want - low, against the stopper knots at both ends, for sailing, and high is with all the slack taken up and cleated, or just wound around the cleat (can't remember while sitting here).
I have a short line that I hook to the main sheet bale with the other end attached to an eye on the rail, and I move the main sheet to the other rail, and with the boom at this higher elevation, it's centered on the boat when snugged, and it doesn't bang back and forth against the main sheet. Think of an inverted wye, with the vertical leg being the TL. It's always centered if I take up all of the 2-part slack when storing the boom high at the dock, and the mainsheet (with a snap shackle at the bottom, to make moving it easy) just has to be snugged a little.
I'm going to eliminate the small block on the TL, as it's really not needed. I'll just run the TL through the little strap eye, under the boom, and through the cleat. It's easy enough to either wind up some TL while holding up the boom with the other hand, or cleat hitch it. Either way, I feel I don't need that little block banging around while sailing, so I can eliminate it. I'll run the TL under the boom so it only puts a shear load on the screws holding the cleat, rather than the extra prying load that would be on it if I went straight to it. It doesn't normally have much load on it, but every once in a while I lose my balance and end up putting a lot of my 225 lb onto that boom.
Oh, and my TL does come down the mast, but I can now just leave it cleated at the mast to the right length. A fixed-length TL would work the same way. I sometimes forget to lower the boom before raising the main, and it's often kinda rough where the river lets into the lake, and it's better not to go forward in that area. Some boats have good, wide working decks - this one is all cabin, and the cabin roof is not sailor friendly, plus the boat is light and twitchy. I've never gotten tossed off a deck (came close a few times, though), and I don't intend to give it a go now.
I have a short line that I hook to the main sheet bale with the other end attached to an eye on the rail, and I move the main sheet to the other rail, and with the boom at this higher elevation, it's centered on the boat when snugged, and it doesn't bang back and forth against the main sheet. Think of an inverted wye, with the vertical leg being the TL. It's always centered if I take up all of the 2-part slack when storing the boom high at the dock, and the mainsheet (with a snap shackle at the bottom, to make moving it easy) just has to be snugged a little.
I'm going to eliminate the small block on the TL, as it's really not needed. I'll just run the TL through the little strap eye, under the boom, and through the cleat. It's easy enough to either wind up some TL while holding up the boom with the other hand, or cleat hitch it. Either way, I feel I don't need that little block banging around while sailing, so I can eliminate it. I'll run the TL under the boom so it only puts a shear load on the screws holding the cleat, rather than the extra prying load that would be on it if I went straight to it. It doesn't normally have much load on it, but every once in a while I lose my balance and end up putting a lot of my 225 lb onto that boom.
Oh, and my TL does come down the mast, but I can now just leave it cleated at the mast to the right length. A fixed-length TL would work the same way. I sometimes forget to lower the boom before raising the main, and it's often kinda rough where the river lets into the lake, and it's better not to go forward in that area. Some boats have good, wide working decks - this one is all cabin, and the cabin roof is not sailor friendly, plus the boat is light and twitchy. I've never gotten tossed off a deck (came close a few times, though), and I don't intend to give it a go now.
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I have a fixed topping lift, i use it from time to time. I find that lazy jack work a lot better to keep the mainsail on the boom when lowered, i use the lazy jack as a double topping lift most of the time. It cost me a few small blocks, two rings and some rope, cheap and convenient.
My first consideration would be to put the topping lift where you reef from if you can't use a fixed length topping lift.
On the Mac that we have if we had a fixed length one and it was long enough to not interfere with sail shape (don't want it holding the boom up when the main is up) it would allow the boom to fall onto the top of the bimini since it just clears it anyway.
If it was a single line from the mast head down to the back of the boom it would be a problem for us for three reasons. One is that while reefing I have to go to the mast since that is where our reef line terminates and where the main halyard ends. So I'd be trying to reef at the main, but I'd have to adjust the topping lift from the cockpit.
Second the bimini is usually in the way to adjust the topping lift if it went to the end of the boom only.
Third during reefing Ruth tries to hold the boat into the wind, but still the boom is swinging around to some degree and would again be a pain to deal with from the cockpit. As it is for us with me having no problems going to the mast I can tighten the topping lift there, loosen the main halyard, pull the reef in or let it out and then re-cleat the main halyard all at the same place.
We also have ...
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor-canvas/canvas-index.html
....lazy jacks and a sail-pack than they are wonderful for capturing the reefed sail, but I don't like to put the weight of the sail/boom on them as they are now. The topping lift takes care of that.
...and yes you have one more line to tame at night so that you don't hear it slapping around. We had more noise from the elect. lines in the mast, but...
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor2/outside-41.html
... took care of that. I didn't like any of that noise, but Ruth actually misses it,
Sum
On the Mac that we have if we had a fixed length one and it was long enough to not interfere with sail shape (don't want it holding the boom up when the main is up) it would allow the boom to fall onto the top of the bimini since it just clears it anyway.
If it was a single line from the mast head down to the back of the boom it would be a problem for us for three reasons. One is that while reefing I have to go to the mast since that is where our reef line terminates and where the main halyard ends. So I'd be trying to reef at the main, but I'd have to adjust the topping lift from the cockpit.
Second the bimini is usually in the way to adjust the topping lift if it went to the end of the boom only.
Third during reefing Ruth tries to hold the boat into the wind, but still the boom is swinging around to some degree and would again be a pain to deal with from the cockpit. As it is for us with me having no problems going to the mast I can tighten the topping lift there, loosen the main halyard, pull the reef in or let it out and then re-cleat the main halyard all at the same place.
We also have ...
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor-canvas/canvas-index.html
....lazy jacks and a sail-pack than they are wonderful for capturing the reefed sail, but I don't like to put the weight of the sail/boom on them as they are now. The topping lift takes care of that.
...and yes you have one more line to tame at night so that you don't hear it slapping around. We had more noise from the elect. lines in the mast, but...
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor2/outside-41.html
... took care of that. I didn't like any of that noise, but Ruth actually misses it
,Sum
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