I am adding an audio amplifier that requires 60 amps of protection. I have never opened the panel of this boat, but I do electrical work (solar) for a living and I want to do it myself to make sure it is done properly. I will need to use heavy guage wire (#4) and am not sure what type of connectors the panel breakers use. There is currently a breaker labeled "spare" that I plan to use. Does anyone have pictures of the back of the panel? I am 2 hours from my boat and at least want a chance at bringing the right parts. Also, it seems like when I pull the cover off of the panel, the entire panel may come with it, unlike a house panel that has a cover. Is that correct?
Adding a circuit to 2007 Hunter electrical panel
- Thread starter bernmeister
- Start date
Wires
I don't think you will find 60 amp spare breaker for sure and I am in the process
of working on my panel as we speak and changing out the 5amp breaker marked head but it seems to be too little for my raritan electric head and some times pop's the breaker and so will change to 10 amp.
I have added new equipment on both the AC and DC side of the panel and I am no expert but do read alot before doing any work on my boat,always switch off
the power to AC and DC for safety at the battery switch and the main breakers before going to the panel very near the power cords.
You will need a screw driver both types for sure and get ready for plenty of wires for sure,the panels should be on hinges and about 3 screws on top the panel and each panel will swing down ward with room for the wires allow the whole panel door to swing down.
Nick
I don't think you will find 60 amp spare breaker for sure and I am in the process
of working on my panel as we speak and changing out the 5amp breaker marked head but it seems to be too little for my raritan electric head and some times pop's the breaker and so will change to 10 amp.
I have added new equipment on both the AC and DC side of the panel and I am no expert but do read alot before doing any work on my boat,always switch off
the power to AC and DC for safety at the battery switch and the main breakers before going to the panel very near the power cords.
You will need a screw driver both types for sure and get ready for plenty of wires for sure,the panels should be on hinges and about 3 screws on top the panel and each panel will swing down ward with room for the wires allow the whole panel door to swing down.
Nick
60 amps, really just for a stereo amp ................ on a boat 
My boat isn't all that smaller than yours and the main DC breaker for the WHOLE panel is 50 amps.
My boat isn't all that smaller than yours and the main DC breaker for the WHOLE panel is 50 amps.
I think that what you may need is to run the #4 gauge (+) wire to the battery switch and use a Blue Sea Systems ANL fuse block with a 60A fuse. The negative
(-) wire can go to the ground post. For added convenience you could add a small On/Off battery switch in the (+) wire. That would be a rather large circuit to try to add to your main DC panel. Check the main breaker capacity in the panel as it is likely that it would not be adequate. I guess the highly amplified boom boxes are now finding their way into sailboats.
(-) wire can go to the ground post. For added convenience you could add a small On/Off battery switch in the (+) wire. That would be a rather large circuit to try to add to your main DC panel. Check the main breaker capacity in the panel as it is likely that it would not be adequate. I guess the highly amplified boom boxes are now finding their way into sailboats.
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Most amps would get direct wired to the "switched" DC bus with a fuse or breaker. Turn on/off of the amp is controlled via the stereo's remote turn on wire. A simple toggle switch in this lead will kill the amp when you need to though some stereo's offer a setting to turn off the amp or sub depending upon which remote turn on lead you use..