Adding a Bowsprit to a Std Rig Boat

[Dogswater]

Hi all. I'm looking to return to the C30 fold. Had one for a few years, 20 years ago, and loved every minute on the boat.

I want to optimize the boat for PHRF racing in San Pedro and Long Beach, two of the windiest areas of SoCal. To this end, I want to go with a std. mast, bow sprit configuration. In my area, the tall rig boats are typically overpowered and can't sail to their rating. Adding a bowsprit will add a little sail area for the light days, but more importantly, move the CE forward and reduce weather helm in the typical 15-18 knot wind range.

So, how hard is it to add a bow sprit to a C30 that didn't leave the factory with one?

Thanks,

 

[sail sfbay]

Welcome to the forum!!

Installation looks straightforward. What design are you planning to install? Catalina Direct sells a teak and fiberglass bowsprit for the C-30: C-30 Teak Bowsprit Only (catalinadirect.com) and Fiberglass Bowsprit C-30 (catalinadirect.com) and retractable bowsprit for the C-30: Cruising Spinnaker Retractable Bowsprit Kit C-27, C-270, C-28, C-30, C-309, C-310, C-320, C-385 (catalinadirect.com) OR you can source one from a spar manufacturer.

In

 

[Sailfanatic]

 

[Joe]

You'll pay $330 for an 18 inch piece of teak, or $600 for the same piece in fiberglass, plus another 5 or 6 hundred for hardware. Oh, and a new, slightly longer headstay would probably be needed. Well over $1100. Installation shouldn't be too difficult.
However, since you're doing this strictly for racing I'd go with the more modern, retractable tube style sprits like those offered by Selden. I think they're cool, plus cost is almost half the traditional version, and much, much easier to install. May save you a few bucks on slip fees too because marinas measure the whole boat.

 

[Sailfanatic]

You'll pay $330 for an 18 inch piece of teak, or $600 for the same piece in fiberglass, plus another 5 or 6 hundred for hardware. Oh, and a new, slightly longer headstay would probably be needed. Well over $1100. Installation shouldn't be too difficult.
However, since you're doing this strictly for racing I'd go with the more modern, retractable tube style sprits like those offered by Selden. I think they're cool, plus cost is almost half the traditional version, and much, much easier to install. May save you a few bucks on slip fees too because marinas measure the whole boat.

That seems a pretty good summary, but note the OP is looking to move the CE forward and he wont be able to do that with a sprit.
My advice would be to consider buying a #2 genoa to solve the balance issue in the upper teens and then go with the sprit to add a upsized asymetric.

 

[Dogswater]

Thanks for the quick and detailed replies guys.
Like Sailfanatic said, using a #2 rather than a #1 would move the Center of Effort forward, but at the cost of total E. However, you can move the CE forward, and even slightly increase Effort by moving the entire jib forward with the bow sprit setup used on a tall mast boat.
So the fixed sprit shown in SFBay's post is what I was thinking.
Looking at photos, it seems the bow pulpit is probably the same for both configurations. Anyone know for sure?
And how about the spinnaker pole? Same length for both? Probably not.
And finally, the scariest part of the install, how is the bob stay attached to the hull?

 

[Sailfanatic]

Thanks for the quick and detailed replies guys.
Like Sailfanatic said, using a #2 rather than a #1 would move the Center of Effort forward, but at the cost of total E. However, you can move the CE forward, and even slightly increase Effort by moving the entire jib forward with the bow sprit setup used on a tall mast boat.
So the fixed sprit shown in SFBay's post is what I was thinking.
Looking at photos, it seems the bow pulpit is probably the same for both configurations. Anyone know for sure?
And how about the spinnaker pole? Same length for both? Probably not.
And finally, the scariest part of the install, how is the bob stay attached to the hull?

My bet is that for a Cat30 closehauled in high-teens, that the primary cause of weather helm is the immersed hull shape more so than the location of the CE. Reefing the main may be as helpful as moving the jib foreward. I guess a side-by-side comparison of the two different Cat 30 configs might answer that, maybe the OP has done that homework?

 

[Dogswater]

Fan, the extent of my homework is limited to being repeatedly trounced by a Std. Mast, Bowsprit C30 back in the day. That boat was unstoppable. And the owner credited his success to the sail configuration. In these parts, the C30 in standard config is always a good bet in the 150-220 rating band. Tall rig, not so much. It's been many years since I've raced on a C30, but as I remember, the boat would suffer from weather helm well before I felt the need to reef or go to the #2. So, I've always wanted to try the hybrid sailplan. My thinking is that by moving the jib forward by about a foot, you could keep the #1 up a bit longer.
But that's just my unscientific threory.