Acquiring a 2012 Marlow Hunter 50...

[Bluesmoods]

Hi folks. Although I have never owned a Hunter, seemingly, the boat I have been looking for recently came up and I did not hesitate in putting together an offer. The boat has an overlapping foresail and the standard rig, Coming from a performance background, I am wondering about the overall performance as I am sure the additional sail area of the taller rig makes a difference. Will the boat do 100+ miles a day in pretty average conditions? I think the foresail is 110%. I might throw on a 135%?

The only considerations that I noticed aside from the standard rig, are needing electric two-speed motors for the primaries, extending the bimni aft of the arch, and a remote for the Raymarine Auto PIlot. I did not see a remote for the windlass but I am assuming it has one? Maybe down the road, I'll add davits for a dingy as this one has some sort of inflatable dinghy stored in a cockpit locker.

Can any owners give me some tips as to what to look for during the survey and sea trial process? Have you taken the vessel on any long-distance cruises? Overall thoughts? Would you do it again vs another brand/model?

Thanks, loads!

 

[Nodak7]

Congratulations!!! We have a 2006 41DS and most of your questions will be answered by other owners. I can say that most likely you have a B&R Rig and the 110 is standard because any larger runs into problems with the standing rigging.

 

[artboas]

Hi folks. Although I have never owned a Hunter, seemingly, the boat I have been looking for recently came up and I did not hesitate in putting together an offer. The boat has an overlapping foresail and the standard rig, Coming from a performance background, I am wondering about the overall performance as I am sure the additional sail area of the taller rig makes a difference. Will the boat do 100+ miles a day in pretty average conditions? I think the foresail is 110%. I might throw on a 135%?

The only considerations that I noticed aside from the standard rig, are needing electric two-speed motors for the primaries, extending the bimni aft of the arch, and a remote for the Raymarine Auto PIlot. I did not see a remote for the windlass but I am assuming it has one? Maybe down the road, I'll add davits for a dingy as this one has some sort of inflatable dinghy stored in a cockpit locker.

Can any owners give me some tips as to what to look for during the survey and sea trial process? Have you taken the vessel on any long-distance cruises? Overall thoughts? Would you do it again vs another brand/model?

Thanks, loads!

You will need to power the winches. Lewmar sells an upgrade kit. It’s big cable (2/0), and a fair bit of work. But, very manageable.
The windlass doesn’t have a remote unless you have a chain counter. If you’re going cruising, get a chain counter. And lots of chain.
The pilot doesn’t really need a remote, but it’s handy. You’re already controlling it from the helm.
Check out your batteries. Might look at replacing them.
Great boat for cruising

 

[SEMPERAVANTI41]

West marine runs a BOGO sale on Lewmar winches from time to time. I bet it will be way cheaper than buying an electric upgrade kit. You can get away with one powered winch on cabin top, but 2 are nice.
If boat has generator installed under floor, it should be carefully inspected for salt water intrusion in the engine. Also check exhaust elbow.
Cockpit floor aft where deck plate is installed for emergency tiller needs inspection for softness due to possible water intrusion.
Check under forward berth for any damage caused by drain from anchor locker.
Check tightness of nuts on Mamba steering system accessed thru aft vertical hatches. If you buy boat, re tighten and secure with thread lock.

 

[artboas]

West marine runs a BOGO sale on Lewmar winches from time to time. I bet it will be way cheaper than buying an electric upgrade kit. You can get away with one powered winch on cabin top, but 2 are nice.
If boat has generator installed under floor, it should be carefully inspected for salt water intrusion in the engine. Also check exhaust elbow.
Cockpit floor aft where deck plate is installed for emergency tiller needs inspection for softness due to possible water intrusion.
Check under forward berth for any damage caused by drain from anchor locker.
Check tightness of nuts on Mamba steering system accessed thru aft vertical hatches. If you buy boat, re tighten and secure with thread lock.

Yes,,,
The anchor locker totally weeped into the plywood below. Turned it into a sponge.
My solution was to put in all glass mat, and not to try & put in replacement wood.
I could write a book on the Mamba drives. I’ve had the complete system out 3 times.
You definitely need to occasionally check torque & tightness of the quadrant drive units. Everything in the system needs to be well aligned, or it will just destroy itself over time owing to sloppiness.
My system has virtually zero play between P&S wheels , and the rudder is finger steering. But, this is only because I keep checking it. There is a lot of force on the gear boxes, and the autopilot motor drives the system with zero backlash.
with the boat out of the water, you should be able to very easily move the rudder to limits with no play.
Most dual helm boats use a continuous cable system for both wheels. This gives you a lot of play (stretch) in the steering which it technically awful, but it’s easier on the boat’s rigid points .
To fully inspect & service the mamba system, you need to disconnect everything, and put the system back together one junction at a time. It’s all based on perfect alignment of the bevel heads and torque tubes.
A very expensive system that no mid range boat builder put in. I’ve only seen this in much higher end yachts.
If your boat is in salt water, plan on replacing the U Joints.