removehtml]Accessing the transmission end of engine compartment is extemely difficult on the S37. I now have to change my propeller shaft log hose and am thinking of cutting the cockpit floor and installing a rather large access hatch to do this work. Has anyone else done this or have a good reason why I shouldn't do this. For those that have already gone this route, how big a hatch? and what type of hatch did you use. Also, the trans-shaft coupler bolts are pretty well rusted to oblivion, any suggestion on getting this assembly apart, I need specifics here. Thanks. Error: Error: expected [/URL], but found [/removehtml] instead[/removehtml]
access hatch in cockpit floor
- Thread starter captbill12318
- Start date
- Status
S37 access
Your right, it's a bitch. I have two 6" screw in type inspection ports in the cockpit floor. One in the very front, and one just in front of the pedestal. The forward one was there when I got the boat, don't know if it was standard or not. The aft one I added. This helps with normal inspection, checking and adding trans fluids etc. Doesn't do much for working access though. For this, I cut a hole through the wall of the quarter berth. Approx. 24" long x 18" high. Hinged at the top, with a simple latch at the bottom. This will allow a little more working room, than crawling in there from the starboard lazarette. If you want to do this, cut it as close to the floor of the quarter berth as possible. It is just a piece of 1/4" marine ply. As for the rusted bolts on the coupler. I have been soaking mine with PB blaster every few days, for a while now. Still haven't tried to loosen them. Going to give it plenty of time, as I have other projects underway. On the S2 I own, ended up having to cut the coupler off. This isn't too big a project using an angle grinder with a cut off wheel on it. Just cut it directly over the key so you don't hurt the shaft. You will ruin the key, but they are dirt cheap.
Your right, it's a bitch. I have two 6" screw in type inspection ports in the cockpit floor. One in the very front, and one just in front of the pedestal. The forward one was there when I got the boat, don't know if it was standard or not. The aft one I added. This helps with normal inspection, checking and adding trans fluids etc. Doesn't do much for working access though. For this, I cut a hole through the wall of the quarter berth. Approx. 24" long x 18" high. Hinged at the top, with a simple latch at the bottom. This will allow a little more working room, than crawling in there from the starboard lazarette. If you want to do this, cut it as close to the floor of the quarter berth as possible. It is just a piece of 1/4" marine ply. As for the rusted bolts on the coupler. I have been soaking mine with PB blaster every few days, for a while now. Still haven't tried to loosen them. Going to give it plenty of time, as I have other projects underway. On the S2 I own, ended up having to cut the coupler off. This isn't too big a project using an angle grinder with a cut off wheel on it. Just cut it directly over the key so you don't hurt the shaft. You will ruin the key, but they are dirt cheap.
I think there are at least 2 options . Bomar makes
large hatches. Another option is to pull the prop and unbolt the engine and pull it out into the cabin. May not be a big hassle. 2 Fuel lines, an instrument panel cable, Battery cables, and the throttle and transmission cables. The shaft has to go anyway to get the stern tube hose on. The stuffing box may have scored the shaft and with the engine out of the way access to the stern tube will be better.
large hatches. Another option is to pull the prop and unbolt the engine and pull it out into the cabin. May not be a big hassle. 2 Fuel lines, an instrument panel cable, Battery cables, and the throttle and transmission cables. The shaft has to go anyway to get the stern tube hose on. The stuffing box may have scored the shaft and with the engine out of the way access to the stern tube will be better.
PBlaster is great stuff
Not to get totally OT, but PBlaster is great stuff, as is Kroil. Except Kroil isn't sold in retail stores. 2x-3x of either one, over 1-2 days, and you should be able to move mountains without effort. Whatever it does, it chemically disintegrates the rust, and does that almost immediately.
Not to get totally OT, but PBlaster is great stuff, as is Kroil. Except Kroil isn't sold in retail stores. 2x-3x of either one, over 1-2 days, and you should be able to move mountains without effort. Whatever it does, it chemically disintegrates the rust, and does that almost immediately.
WHAT ? ? ?
What the heck are you guys talking about? Take all your stuff and the piece of plywood out of the lazarette and get your body down there. You might want to remove the muffler. This is not that big of a deal, just take your time. If you cannot get the shaft/transmission bolts off carefully apply some heat with a torch, tap it with a hammer and it should break free. Worst case use a grinder or dremmel to cut them out.
What the heck are you guys talking about? Take all your stuff and the piece of plywood out of the lazarette and get your body down there. You might want to remove the muffler. This is not that big of a deal, just take your time. If you cannot get the shaft/transmission bolts off carefully apply some heat with a torch, tap it with a hammer and it should break free. Worst case use a grinder or dremmel to cut them out.
- Status