A technique for replacing lines thru line organizers and sheaves

Rich Stidger

Rich Stidger

.
Feb 10, 2004
4,132
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
So maybe this technique has been suggested before now, but it might be an original idea. (or not!) I needed to replace a line that ran under my deck and through a couple of line organizers. Being the lazy, no-good sailor that I am, I didn't want to take off the cover over these organizers. So my option was to connect the old line to the new one securely enough that they don't come apart in the process.

So what I did: I cut both lines off squarely and wrapped each end tightly with tape. Then I heated both ends in the flame of my stove at the same time. Before they had a chance to cool, I pushed the ends together so that they would fuse. I squeezed the splice to make it as small as possible, then I wrapped a single layer of tape tightly around the heated splice.

Testing the splice, I pulled on the lines as hard as I could and they held perfectly.

Finally I just pulled the new line through with the old line and I was done!
This was easier and faster than sewing the ends together, and much more secure than just taping the ends.

Here is a picture of the splice ready to go thru the sheaves.

2024_0715_113958.JPG
 
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thinwater

thinwater

.
Mar 26, 2011
3,715
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
Good post! It has the advantage of being novel.
  • Up the mast I think I still prefer the absolute security of reeving splices.
  • It's only going to work with polyester/polyester. Dyneema does not fuse that well.
  • I'm going to have to cut it apart and whip both ends (maybe only one, if one of the ropes is trash). With a reeving splice I am done.
I like it a lot better than just tape and better than quick sewing. I bet it is particularly good for small sizes.
 
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Tally Ho

Tally Ho

.
Jan 7, 2011
5,581
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
Neat idea. Did the tape melt in the photo?

I have used a straightened paper clip with “hooks” on both ends and buried the hooks into the 2 ends of the rope, then put some tape over that. Worked in some cases…parted once when pulling my Topping lift over :banghead:

Greg
 
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thinwater

thinwater

.
Mar 26, 2011
3,715
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
ChrisHunter said:
2nd that. Just had to be gentle pulling it over the top of the mast.
Click to expand
Consider reeving eyes. Dead easy, permanent (replaces the end whipping), and about 30-50% line strength.

There are simple splicing methods, if you want it pretty and you are comfortable with that process, but if not, just pull out about 6 inches of core, fold the cover over, and sew it flat to itself. You then lash the eyes together with whipping twine or string. No increase in diameter, absolutely failure proof, and it will be there next time you need it.

Very worthwhile if you don't like climbing :yikes:.
1721140939601.jpeg
 
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thinwater

thinwater

.
Mar 26, 2011
3,715
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
Another method, that I have never heard of but would be very simple, strong, and fast.

  • Pull about 2" of core from each rope.
  • Sew the two covers together, side-by-side.
Yes, you would have to cut it off and re-finish the ends, but that is true of all of the suggestions other than reeving splices. I bet it would be faster than fussing around with the other ways; the stitching would be VERY straightforward. And it would be very strong.
 
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sailme88

sailme88

.
Jan 19, 2010
1,292
Catalina 34 Casco Bay
I came up with an process a few years ago and passed it on to others at our boat club. This is very simple and so far fool proof.

You'll need a paperclip and some tape ( either electrical or rigging). Open the paperclip and to where it almost forms a square.The bitter end of the longest piece of clip is held alongside the line. Note where the bend on the clip falls on the line. Push the clip end thru that point to the curve in the clip and fold over the protruding clip end toward the line bitter end. Repeat this process on the other line when it is butt to butt to the first line. Tape the entire joint. The clip will bear the tug and flex over and around pulleys , sheaves and other niceties .

This has NEVER failed....
 
thinwater

thinwater

.
Mar 26, 2011
3,715
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
sailme88 said:
I came up with an process a few years ago and passed it on to others at our boat club. This is very simple and so far fool proof.

You'll need a paperclip and some tape ( either electrical or rigging). Open the paperclip and to where it almost forms a square.The bitter end of the longest piece of clip is held alongside the line. Note where the bend on the clip falls on the line. Push the clip end thru that point to the curve in the clip and fold over the protruding clip end toward the line bitter end. Repeat this process on the other line when it is butt to butt to the first line. Tape the entire joint. The clip will bear the tug and flex over and around pulleys , sheaves and other niceties .

This has NEVER failed....
Click to expand
Read posts #3-5. I think this is what they are describing. Yes, it has failed.
 
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dLj

dLj

.
Mar 23, 2017
4,407
Belliure 41 Back in the Chesapeake
Rich Stidger said:
So maybe this technique has been suggested before now, but it might be an original idea. (or not!) I needed to replace a line that ran under my deck and through a couple of line organizers. Being the lazy, no-good sailor that I am, I didn't want to take off the cover over these organizers. So my option was to connect the old line to the new one securely enough that they don't come apart in the process.

So what I did: I cut both lines off squarely and wrapped each end tightly with tape. Then I heated both ends in the flame of my stove at the same time. Before they had a chance to cool, I pushed the ends together so that they would fuse. I squeezed the splice to make it as small as possible, then I wrapped a single layer of tape tightly around the heated splice.

Testing the splice, I pulled on the lines as hard as I could and they held perfectly.

Finally I just pulled the new line through with the old line and I was done!
This was easier and faster than sewing the ends together, and much more secure than just taping the ends.

Here is a picture of the splice ready to go thru the sheaves.
Click to expand
When I installed my Hydrovane, there was a line used to adjust it from somewhere (of my choosing) in the cockpit. The instructions said to use the above method to join the line. The first time I did it, that joint did not last too long. I figured I hadn't heated enough, so did it a second time with more heat. That worked for a time but then also broke. For my third attempt I did the heated joint as suggested, and then sewed the two ends also. That has lasted through today.

My take away is, using this as you have to reeve lines is a great way to do that. But it's not a good permanente joint if running repeatedly over a block.

dj
 
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thinwater

thinwater

.
Mar 26, 2011
3,715
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
Permanent joints are called splices. Another thread.

If you want to do it without an increase in diameter, and a re willing to give up some strength (the spliced part might not be heavily loaded)...
  • Remove ~ 12 inches of core from both ropes. Taper the cores a few inches.
  • Insert the cover of one about 6 inches from the start of the core on the other and exit where the core is full diameter.
  • Repeat on the other end.The cover entries should touch and merge.
  • Stick a pin through at the crossover so that it does not move apart.
  • Trim the ends, taper a few inches, and milk back inside. They should intermingle with the tapered core and result in zero change in diameter.
  • Lock stitch the crossover.
Done properly it is hard to find and 50% line strength. Should last as long as the rope. I've done this with several continuous lines, including reacher sheets. Really, it sounds a lot more complicated than it is.
 
P

Project_Mayhem

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Sep 24, 2018
3,401
Catalina 30 MKIII Chicago
I would cut the lines at an angle and then offset them parallel with the line. This would create more area to bond and reduce the chance that your two lines have a wider diameter than a single line is supposed to
mermike said:
I keep a set of Harbor Freight wire pulling rods on the boat. Useful for all kinds of tasks like this.
www.harborfreight.com

3/16 in. x 33 ft. Fiberglass Wire Running Kit

Amazing deals on this 3/16In X 33Ft Fiberglass Wire Runner at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com
Click to expand
These used to be decent. Now the ends pop off very easily. Spend the extra $15 for the Ideal or Klein set
 
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