The holding tank on my '91 Hunter 33.5 sailboat has failed. Haven't fully determined the failure mechanism yet, but there is a split in the outlet (pumpout) 90 degree fitting. (I haven't inspected it myself yet - another person was on the boat over the weekend and discovered this, and has described it to me - I'll be on the boat tomorrow evening to check it out.) Has anyone else encountered this problem? Any recommendation for a replacement? The tank manufacturer hasn't made this tank for 7 years. (I haven't contacted Hunter yet - hopefully tomorrow.) Thanks. Gary
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
Ronco Plastics is your best source
More info in the articles "What Size Holding Tank Do I Need" and "Installing a Head & Holding Tank" in the HM forum reference library. You'll find "Replacing Hoses" useful too.
More info in the articles "What Size Holding Tank Do I Need" and "Installing a Head & Holding Tank" in the HM forum reference library. You'll find "Replacing Hoses" useful too.
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Gary
Thank you, Peggie!
Peggie, thank you for the pointer! I called Hunter Marine, and they weren't much help. Then I called Ronco Plastics, and they've been very helpful (not to mention they have a great variety of tanks and an on-line catalog, plus excellent prices). I'll be taking final measurements today and ordering a tank next week. Gary
Peggie, thank you for the pointer! I called Hunter Marine, and they weren't much help. Then I called Ronco Plastics, and they've been very helpful (not to mention they have a great variety of tanks and an on-line catalog, plus excellent prices). I'll be taking final measurements today and ordering a tank next week. Gary
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Dan Grosz
How about repair?
Instead of replacing the tank, how about repairing. A two part epoxy like JB Weld might do the trick. Good luck
Instead of replacing the tank, how about repairing. A two part epoxy like JB Weld might do the trick. Good luck
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
Won't work..
Nothing bonds permanently to polyethylene. It's not worth it if the tank is metal either...'cuz the first leak is ONLY the first leak. Replacement is really the only viable option.
Nothing bonds permanently to polyethylene. It's not worth it if the tank is metal either...'cuz the first leak is ONLY the first leak. Replacement is really the only viable option.
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Gary
Repair one hole... then what fails?
It's an aluminum tank that has corroded through at a outlet fitting on top of the tank. It spilled because it couldn't be pumped out (no vacuum developed because of a hole the size of my index finger), and because nothing could be pumped, everyone thought the tank was empty (multiple users, so no one knew for sure that the previous user hadn't pumped it out). Then under sail with the boat heeled, we had a holding tank spill - now that was obvious! So, what if we were to repair the existing problem, then the next corrosion hole was near the bottom of the tank with a full tank? No thanks! I followed Peggie's recommendation of checking Ronco Plastics, and found a tank for $140 list that will replace the existing tank. And, apparently if we buy direct from Ronco, we get a substantial discount. I'm in the process of drawing the diagrams so we can get the holes put in the tank at the correct locations. The replacement hose (yes, we're replacing all hoses while we're doing the job) will cost us more than the tank.
It's an aluminum tank that has corroded through at a outlet fitting on top of the tank. It spilled because it couldn't be pumped out (no vacuum developed because of a hole the size of my index finger), and because nothing could be pumped, everyone thought the tank was empty (multiple users, so no one knew for sure that the previous user hadn't pumped it out). Then under sail with the boat heeled, we had a holding tank spill - now that was obvious! So, what if we were to repair the existing problem, then the next corrosion hole was near the bottom of the tank with a full tank? No thanks! I followed Peggie's recommendation of checking Ronco Plastics, and found a tank for $140 list that will replace the existing tank. And, apparently if we buy direct from Ronco, we get a substantial discount. I'm in the process of drawing the diagrams so we can get the holes put in the tank at the correct locations. The replacement hose (yes, we're replacing all hoses while we're doing the job) will cost us more than the tank.
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Gary
Hose & fittings?
Peggie, I've decided, after reading your articles, many posts and the West Marine advisor information, to go with Sealand Odorsafe hose. When I called Ronco Plastics they mentioned special fittings for this hose. Yet I've been unable to find any mention in any catalog or online of special fittings for the Odorsafe hose. Do you know of any? Or should I use the Shields fittings designed for their 101, 148, and 144 hose? (I'm looking at a West Marine catalog, and those are the only fittings they list for sanitation hose.) Thank you. Gary
Peggie, I've decided, after reading your articles, many posts and the West Marine advisor information, to go with Sealand Odorsafe hose. When I called Ronco Plastics they mentioned special fittings for this hose. Yet I've been unable to find any mention in any catalog or online of special fittings for the Odorsafe hose. Do you know of any? Or should I use the Shields fittings designed for their 101, 148, and 144 hose? (I'm looking at a West Marine catalog, and those are the only fittings they list for sanitation hose.) Thank you. Gary
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
No special fittings needed...however...
Ronco makes exceptionally good tanks, but they're a little shaky when it comes to plumbing...until the last couple of years they were offering corrugated hose that requires cuffs in their catalog. However, the problem with 1.5" PVC thread-barb fittings is, nominal 1.5" threaded by 1.5" barbed is ACTUALY 1.5" threaded by 1 5/8" barbed (I have NO idea why, it's just the plumbing industry standard for 1.5" PVC fittings)...which makes it a real bear to get a hose onto 'em--especially a hose as stiff as SeaLand OdorSafe. Nylon fittings don't suffer from the same anomaly...they're true 1.5" thread-1.5" barbed. The only real problem with ANY hose is tight bends. No hose should be forced to bend more than it will bend easily. Hose should NEVER be heated to bend it, because that can weaken it and cause it to collapse--kink--at the bend...sometimes after months of use. Obviously, softer hose will bend further than stiff hose, but no hose should be forced to bend. When faced with a tight bend, it's necessary to break the hose and insert and inline radius fitting--and those can be hard to find. SeaLand offers a full line of inline fittings--tees, wyes, radii... However, the only parts of 'em that aren't available at any hardware store or plumbing supply for about 1/4 of SeaLand's prices are the hose connectors that have be cemented to the radius at each end. The only source I've ever found for those is SeaLand. So if you don't have any tight bends between the toilet and the tank, go with the nylon or marelon fittings for Shields 148 hose. If there are bends, give SeaLand a call at 800-321-9886 for their Retail Products Guide...there's a whole page of their fittings in it. Caution: 1. When threading ANY fitting to ANY plastic tank, don't use ANY sealant...only teflon tape. 2. Do not overtighten threaded fittings--go no more than one full turn past hand-tight, plus enough to aim an elbow in the direction you want it to go, even if a lot of threads are still showing. Reason: tank fittings are NPT (National Pipe Thread) standard, which are slightly tapered--so slightly that you can't see it...overtightening puts stress on the female "collar" in the tank that'll cause it to crack. Not always immediately, but inevitably. 3. Don't run a hose off a tank at an angle that can put stress on side of the female fitting in the tank...tank fittings are spin-welded (a kind of heat welding) into tanks...too much stress can break the weld loose. Use a 90 or a 45 if necessary.
Ronco makes exceptionally good tanks, but they're a little shaky when it comes to plumbing...until the last couple of years they were offering corrugated hose that requires cuffs in their catalog. However, the problem with 1.5" PVC thread-barb fittings is, nominal 1.5" threaded by 1.5" barbed is ACTUALY 1.5" threaded by 1 5/8" barbed (I have NO idea why, it's just the plumbing industry standard for 1.5" PVC fittings)...which makes it a real bear to get a hose onto 'em--especially a hose as stiff as SeaLand OdorSafe. Nylon fittings don't suffer from the same anomaly...they're true 1.5" thread-1.5" barbed. The only real problem with ANY hose is tight bends. No hose should be forced to bend more than it will bend easily. Hose should NEVER be heated to bend it, because that can weaken it and cause it to collapse--kink--at the bend...sometimes after months of use. Obviously, softer hose will bend further than stiff hose, but no hose should be forced to bend. When faced with a tight bend, it's necessary to break the hose and insert and inline radius fitting--and those can be hard to find. SeaLand offers a full line of inline fittings--tees, wyes, radii... However, the only parts of 'em that aren't available at any hardware store or plumbing supply for about 1/4 of SeaLand's prices are the hose connectors that have be cemented to the radius at each end. The only source I've ever found for those is SeaLand. So if you don't have any tight bends between the toilet and the tank, go with the nylon or marelon fittings for Shields 148 hose. If there are bends, give SeaLand a call at 800-321-9886 for their Retail Products Guide...there's a whole page of their fittings in it. Caution: 1. When threading ANY fitting to ANY plastic tank, don't use ANY sealant...only teflon tape. 2. Do not overtighten threaded fittings--go no more than one full turn past hand-tight, plus enough to aim an elbow in the direction you want it to go, even if a lot of threads are still showing. Reason: tank fittings are NPT (National Pipe Thread) standard, which are slightly tapered--so slightly that you can't see it...overtightening puts stress on the female "collar" in the tank that'll cause it to crack. Not always immediately, but inevitably. 3. Don't run a hose off a tank at an angle that can put stress on side of the female fitting in the tank...tank fittings are spin-welded (a kind of heat welding) into tanks...too much stress can break the weld loose. Use a 90 or a 45 if necessary.
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