Can anyone tell me if their early 90's Era hunters have a check-valve in the bilge hose? The thru-hull is located high on the hull, but appears like it would be below the waterline when heeled. (Boat is new to me) I'm going to add a second pump, with the thru-hull above the existing, but not sure what would be recommended here.
90's H30 Bilge thru-hull
- Thread starter Famos_Amos
- Start date
OEM check valve in the bilge? Not that I know. When the boat heels the water will be rushing by the thru-hull opening actually helping pump water out. Have you noticed how your galley sink might be slow to drain but get the boat moving and it will drain right out. Check valves are not recommended as they prone to fouling. If you are going to install a 2nd pump you will need to install another discharge hose with its own thru-hull.
What is recommended? I consider that automatic electric bilge pumps are convenience items to remove incidental water that collects in the bilge. The electric pump means you do not have to get on your knees to scoop it up and the automatic function allows it t work even when you are not aboard. The safety that these pumps may bring is really negligible as anything between 300 and 1500 GPH will not have the capacity to fight any kind of significant water intrusion. At best it may prevent your cabin sole from getting wet. My point is and since you asked that adding a 2nd convenience pump does not really add any significant improvement worth having to drill an additional thru-hull. I take it there might be some special circumstances where a 2nd pump is advisable but for 99% of us that keep our boats in marinas or private docks that would not be necessary. I have given this issue careful thought and have not come up with a valid reason for having two pumps other than having a backup for convenience
What is recommended? I consider that automatic electric bilge pumps are convenience items to remove incidental water that collects in the bilge. The electric pump means you do not have to get on your knees to scoop it up and the automatic function allows it t work even when you are not aboard. The safety that these pumps may bring is really negligible as anything between 300 and 1500 GPH will not have the capacity to fight any kind of significant water intrusion. At best it may prevent your cabin sole from getting wet. My point is and since you asked that adding a 2nd convenience pump does not really add any significant improvement worth having to drill an additional thru-hull. I take it there might be some special circumstances where a 2nd pump is advisable but for 99% of us that keep our boats in marinas or private docks that would not be necessary. I have given this issue careful thought and have not come up with a valid reason for having two pumps other than having a backup for convenience
My '85 model came with a check valve in the bilge pump discharge line. Valve is located right at the pump.. Not a "recommended" installation, but it has been working for 30 years. Many boats with long discharge lines and a small capacity bilge use a check valve to keep seawater out when heeled and to keep the pump from continuously cycling as it pumps the line full which shuts off the switch then the water drains back and turns the switch back on.. etc.. The "proper" solution is a positive displacement bilge pump like a flex impeller pump or a diaphragm pump.. both are considerably more expensive than a check valve.. Some insurance surveyors may not allow a check valve in that line.
I ask because the paperwork that came with the boat (originally, I assume) shows a check valve in the setup. The current installation does not have one.
The H30 has a fairly small bilge area. By the time it would be noticeably sitting low in the water, the sole boards would be under water. I'd rather have an unnecessary (but correctly installed) secondary bilge pump with the added peace of mind than soggy sole planks after a week or so with a nuisance leak and a dead bilge pump.
My '85 has it too. Originally from the dealer there was a bronze 2.5 pound spring. When the new bilge pump couldn't open it after the line was already filled (spring + additional weight of water), the dealer changed it. Now I have a 0.5 pound spring PVC check valve and an upsized bilge pump (2000 gph). So far, fingers continued to be crossed, it always works.
I think something needs clearing up; it is the installation of a check valve for the purpose of running a 2nd pump through the same single discharge hose that is not recommended. On a single pump with the thru hull above the waterline should a check valve fail it would cause no serious problems. I can understand that in boats with a small bilge and a long running discharge hose it may be advisable to install a check valve as it will stop continuous or frequent recycling. The worst occurrences that could happen if the check valve fails is that the pump could fail to expel water just as a failed pump would or that it would cycle continuously until it wore the batteries down or burn itself down. Is your problem that the bilge is too small or just too shallow? For shallow bilges where a float switch may not operate properly an automatic pump with a chip sensor may work the best. If the discharge hose is too long then creating a small loop where most of the water would just trickle out the discharge port rather than flow back might be a solution.