9.2C - Running Rigging and Other Mods

[poguechop]

Hi fellow S2 owners! My husband and I have a 1981 S2 9.2C that is moored on Vancouver Island, BC.

We think we are the second or third owners. After 2 great years of sailing our boat, we are looking to replace the running rigging and do a bit of a refit. We would love to get advice from fellow owners about what's worked and maybe not worked for you, before we invest in replacements/upgrades.

Here are some options we are considering:

• Boom vang: looking to potentially add a 8:1 cascading single end system, and bringing this back to the cockpit. Our boat currently doesn't have one. Probably won't go for the rigid vang option due to price.
• Reefing/halyard setups:
  • We have found that the halyards running aft but the reefing lines and hooks at the mast makes it more complicated than just having everything in one place for reefing; also find that our dodger interferes with our winches on the cabin top; so 2 potential options come to mind to mitigate:
    1. Re-locate halyard winches to the mast and keep the reefing as is (original slab reefing with hooks and cam cleats at gooseneck)
    2. Convert reefing to single line or double line reefing, brough aft (and look to remake our dodger so there's better clearance)
• Cleats: have you all stuck with the original cleats or switched to rope clutches, cam cleats, etc?
• Genoa furler line: our boat came with a harken roller furler for the genoa. This line is currently run down the starboard side to the same cleat as for the genoa sheet. This gets a little clunky and crowded if we want to reef while on that tack. Would a cam cleat be sufficient here, or is a rope clutch necessary for the forces involved?
• Dodger/bimini: our boat came with a canvas and strataglass dodger that is in rough shape and no bimini. We aren't crazy about the dodger because it interferes with the halyard winches (see previous bullet!) and the vinyl is hard to see out of when it's raining (we do a fair bit of winter sailing) and it's really pricey to replace in Canada; so we are trying to decide whether to:
  • resew a new canvas dodger
  • construct a fiberglass hard dodger with windshield wipers!
  • forego the dodger entirely, but maybe make a bimini that is self supported without attaching to a dodger
• Interior storage organization: we are finding that there is a fair amount of storage volume, but not a lot of organization capability for smaller items. We are currently using various containers and bags to keep stuff secure, but are eager to see what elegant solutions others have come up with. One of us sews well, so we are not afraid of making up some DIY options, but searching for ideas.
• On-Deck storage: where are all of you storing extra fuel jerries, crab and prawn traps, kayaks, etc. Please show off your solutions!
• Chart table area: while we have paper charts, we find we mostly use Navionics on an ipad, and when we do look at our paper charts, it's much nicer to do so on the salon table where it's brighter and you're not hunched over; so long story short we never use the chair and chart table for that purpose. Have any of you modified that area for another usage? Installed a fridge or freezer? Shelf storage?

Thanks in advance if anyone has time to weigh in and show off some pics of your 9.2s!

Cheers,
Alex

 

[Joe]

First of all, a thoughtful presentation. Thanks for being clear and so damn organized.
I'm not an S2 owner, just another mid size production sailboat owner, but none of your rigging questions appear to be S2 specific, but rather general boat upgrade thoughts all of us have had at one time or another. Anyway this forum (Ask All Sailors) is fertile ground for such a discussion, so here are my thoughts.

First, Rigid Boom Vang. YES get one... don't worry about the cost... it's a legit, highly effective upgrade that'll make you wonder why you never had one in the first place. You can purchase a Garhaurer rigid vang, which is the spring-loaded type, for your boat for well under $600. This would be 20:1 purchase and garhaurer includes custom made mast and boom attachment fittings with the price. Okay........... there's a lot of reasons to go with the rigid vang, especially when it's only going to cost you another couple hundred bucks over the 8:1 cascade you're planning to install. But...... the main advantage is that you no longer need a TOPPING LIFT for your boom. Think about that and how much more fun you're going to have. Especially, now think about this very seriously, when you upgrade that mainsail soon and you decide to get a modern sail that has a little more roach (fatter leech up top) and full length battens. Trust me, the topping lift will drive you crazy every time you turn, those battens will get hung up on it, so you have to tend it constantly...First you keep it snug enough not to slap the sail, then you have to loosen it to let the battens come through, then snug up again. Everytime you turn... It's a pain, and exactly what drove me to get my rigid vang. That upgrade changed my sailing life so much for the better I'm getting a little misty remembering the first time out after installation....... sigh......what a day. Only one was better... the day my new tiller pilot was hooked up and running. HANDS FREE... that brings up my next thought.

Auto pilot... you didn't mention this, but if you don't have one, or you do and it's not working. ... Start saving for christmas and do something about it. we all owe it to ourselves to be able to take a bathroom break, make a sandwich, open beverages, read a book, etc.. once in a while a relilable autopilot is the fundamental guardian angel of the short handed sailor. Even with crew, they are a blessing.

On with your list. I like your idea of moving everything to the mast. Especially since you sail with crew, or have a good auto pilot... keep that stuff up there makes sense. If you're like me the only time you use the halyard is at the beginning and end of your sailing day. So why is it so important to split up the halyard and the reef lines.
The real challenge though, is what you're going to do with the dodger predicament. I think a well made dodger is really important if you sail in any kind of weather. A bimini is nice, but they are relatively inexpensive to make from a kit. A dodger, well there's really no such thing as a dodger "kit" I know I searched high and wide. 6 years ago I had the money so I bit the bullet and had one custom made, to the tune of nearly $4k.. it's top of the line, and I'm really proud of it.. .... The point I want to make is that a big part of dodger construction is the frame....and making a pattern for the cover. Having a good frame already, and the remnants of the old dodger to create the pattern will drastically lower the cost of re creating one for your boat. So I'd lean in that direction. I would start shopping around, for an independent, reputable canvas craftsman for the purpose of getting realistic quotes on the kind of quality your boat deserves. Bimini kits are relatively inexpensive and fairly easy to install... that's a good temp option till you find the right canvas person for your dodger project.

Oh... a hard, fiberglass dodger with wipers..... that would be pretty damn cool... just be careful about the design because I've seen some that look pretty wonky. If you go that way, seriously, submit a rendering to some people....maybe even here... for unbiased criticism.

Clutch on furling line...... NOPE... a ratchet block with cam cleat is the way to go. Most people will clip this to a stanchion base or someplace else on the toe rail. If you have too much force on the line... then you need to find out why. because there shouldn't be.
Okay, I've said plenty. Time to wish you luck. Don't forget.. rigid vang .......good.....

 

[Oddvark]

we are looking to replace the running rigging and do a bit of a refit. We would love to get advice from fellow owners about what's worked and maybe not worked for you, before we invest in replacements/upgrades.

You really should have a look at the Rigging Doctor. dentist with a couple of boats and a LOT of videos on DIY boat stuff including 82 post on rigging. He replaced all his rigging with Dynema (UHMWPE...same thing). Stronger, cheaper by far and very DIY. He has detailed videos on his youtube channel of every step. Has a good series on how he made his own lithium battery pack and turned a boat he had into all electric.

Here's his site and a link to his blog post index.

Blog Index — Rigging Doctor

www.riggingdoctor.com

 

[Oddvark]

• Cleats: have you all stuck with the original cleats or switched to rope clutches, cam cleats, etc?
• Genoa furler line: our boat came with a harken roller furler for the genoa. This line is currently run down the starboard side to the same cleat as for the genoa sheet. This gets a little clunky and crowded if we want to reef while on that tack. Would a cam cleat be sufficient here, or is a rope clutch necessary for the forces involved?
• Dodger/bimini: our boat came with a canvas and strataglass dodger that is in rough shape and no bimini. We aren't crazy about the dodger because it interferes with the halyard winches...
  • construct a fiberglass hard dodger with windshield wipers!...

Sailing Uma is doing a LOT of what you are asking. They stripped their Pearson 36 to the bone and are rebuilding. A couple of videos that might interest you at their Sailing Uma youtube site

Installing Boat Hardware That Doesn t Suck! _ Step 455

Building the Ultimate Hard Dodger (part 5) _ Step 456

And they have many many more great videos. They have great ideas to stop condensation.

 

[shemandr]

A canvas shop or sailmaker can put new "Glass" on the OP's dodger for far less than making a new dodger. Even all new panel would be less than a new dodger.
Once you have to alter the frame for winch clearance you could be approaching the cost of new. If the halyard winches are re-located to the mast that problem goes away. Since the OP has Genoa furling we are basically talking about the main halyard (The genoa halyard could remain with the sail up for a season). And, it is so much easier to hoist a sail from the mast position. It was common practice to put a crew member at the mast to jump the halyard and the crew in the cockpit would just reel in the slack and set the final tension.

 

[Project_Mayhem]

That's a beautiful picture! Nice work!

While I'm quite fond of the S2's, I currently own a Catalina 30. Many of your questions are relevant to most boats. I will answer what I can for another perspective

Genoa furler line: our boat came with a harken roller furler for the genoa. This line is currently run down the starboard side to the same cleat as for the genoa sheet. This gets a little clunky and crowded if we want to reef while on that tack. Would a cam cleat be sufficient here, or is a rope clutch necessary for the forces involved?

I have a cam cleat for my genoa. My deck has an outward slope (See pics of Catalina 30 MKIII's). You should analyze the angles that you will be pulling the line from. The previous owner of my boat did not do this. It's impossible cleat the line from the helm. I plan on 3D printing a small riser block to eliminate this issue. Another issue that I have is the angle which anyone would pull the does not line up with the left/right angle of the cleat. This results in excessive wear on the line and line retainer on the cleat as well as a lot of added friction. However, the cam cleat is plenty strong. Use BedIT butyl tape and doubled up fender washers as backing plates to avoid future issues.

Interior storage organization: we are finding that there is a fair amount of storage volume, but not a lot of organization capability for smaller items. We are currently using various containers and bags to keep stuff secure, but are eager to see what elegant solutions others have come up with. One of us sews well, so we are not afraid of making up some DIY options, but searching for ideas.

I have 3D printed lots of little containers and brackets. All soap and hand sanitizer bottles are in custom sized open top containers that prevent them from sliding around. The containers are held down with VHB tape.

For garbage, I use a Rubbermaid Slim Jim garbage can (tall and skinny. Commonly used in bars) next to the companionway. This takes up minimal floor space while allowing it to be used from inside and the cockpit.

Hammock style hanging nets are an excellent way to utilize extra space. My boat has a hanging shelf similar to this.

On-Deck storage: where are all of you storing extra fuel jerries, crab and prawn traps, kayaks, etc. Please show off your solutions!

I found taller, narrower jerry cans take up less deck space and are easier to tie to life lines. I highly recommend flexible EZ-Pour spouts for your cans. It substantially reduces the chance of spills and makes it much easier to use. Using the long extension allows you to put the spout in the fuel filler hole before fuel starts to flow. They're $14 USD on amazon and well worth it.

We've tied bikes to the stern for 30+ miles of travel. I see plenty of people putting kayaks on the side of the deck, both inside and outside of the stanchions.

For line storage, I've 3D printed some large hooks. They're placed all over the boat. It's really helpful when a fuel dock attendant knows exactly which line to grab off of your boat without explaination