9.2A Mast Compression Post Block

[RussB]

I have a 1979 9.2A and would like to inspect/replace, if soft or rotted, the mast compression post block. I would appreciate any guidance and photos covering best location to place access holes, etc. I have an access hatch in the floor, just outside the head door, to access head shower drain hose to bildge. I don't think this will access the post block.

Also, There is some indication that by the mid 1980's S2 was fully encapsulating this block. Does anyone know what year they began this practice?

Thanks,

Russ

 

[BobM]

I think Woodster had/has his sole out. If I recall correctly he didn't find a block. I am with you though, I have a depression near my mast and need to add a block if I lack one.

 

[Bob McKee]

S2 9.2A Mast Compression Post


I probably should have posted this last year. When I bought my 9.2A several years ago the door to the head was misaligned, the hinge side had sagged. I let it go for awhile and then started investigating. The floor at the base of the compression post at the forward side of the head was also sagged. I removed the holding tank and cut an access hole to get under the post. The post was sitting only on the floor, there was no support underneath. All of the loads from the mast came down to the floor and was pushing it down.

I removed the door, loosened the rigging and used a house jack to raise the hinge side of the door to bring it back up to where is should be. I then used a block of teak and some teak shims to support between the floor and the hull and restored the holding tank. The head door now closes almost properly and the floor is properly flat. Has anyone else seen this problem?

 

[RussB]

Bob McKee,

Thanks for the info. So your access hole is in the head floor, under the holding tank? How big was the hole you cut? Did you turn it into a removable hatch or fiberglass it back in?

Thanks,

Russ

 

[BobM]

I have exactly this issue

S2 9.2A Mast Compression Post

Has anyone else seen this problem?

After replacing my back stay I noticed a dent in the deck aft and left of the mast base. I loosened up the rig and it substantially vanished. I had also noticed that my head door is off level and doesn't hit the stop block on the cabinet door opposite it.

Glad to hear you were able to do it with the rig up. I have been tempted to try it. Not psyched to remove my holding tank but did flush the sh!t out of it (literally) last fall and the PO's hose installation is less than optimal so no time like the present I guess!

Could you describe the type of jack in greater detail? I was wondering what the heck I could actually fit under the deck there. It doesn't seem like there is much room. Was there a cross member to put the block on or did you distribute the load to the hull some how?

Thanks,

Bob

 

[BobM]

Re: I have exactly this issue

Perhaps I am misunderstanding and you put the jack on the sole and jacked up the cabin top?

 

[Bob McKee]

Unfortunately I didn't take any photos, I thought that this a problem only on my boat since it was an early one.
I removed the head door, all thirty or more screws, I used a jack that I had for supporting a house corner but you could do it with a small hydraulic jack an a 4X4. You should put a piece of wood or plywood under the jack to spread out the load on the cabin sole. I put the jack under the forward end of the door opening and jacked carefully to raise the cabin top. Be sure to loosen the mast rigging.
The head holding tank in my boat is under the cushion just forward of the head, I removed the tank and cleaned it ond replaced the hoses. I cut a hole about 12"X14" (dimension is approximate) under where the holding tank had been, this area is plywood. I made it a removeable hatch by using the piece I had removed.
The area under the compression post was relieved enough to put a piece of teak that I had and some thinner shims forced under the area. I'm not sure that it is pushed up as far as original, but the door now works (almost) properly.
The teak may eventually get wet and rot, but it is very resistant so it will probably last as long as I will. I'm 68.