‘82 Yanmar 2GM Overhaul Plan

Oct 6, 2007
1,099
Hunter H30 1982 Chicago IL
My little 1982 2GM is still going strong with routine annual oil/filter and fuel filter changes, annual inspection/semi-annual impeller changes. It sees only 70-80 engine hours per year on average in our short sailing season and has been in fresh water it’s entire life. Repairs and other maintenance to date include: valve spacing adjustment in 2017; transmission rebuild, new fuel hoses and shaft log in 2014; new starter motor and new fuel injectors in 2018; new rear seal, exhaust hoses and fuel lift pump in 2024. The original exhaust elbow is clear with little or no visible corrosion.

However, there has been a minor but growing oil leak at the cylinder head gasket for a few years now. I mis-diagnosed this last year and had the rear seal replaced, learning the hard way to trace oil leaks with UV dye. The head gasket leak won’t fix itself, so I’ve decided it’s time for what my mechanic calls a “Top Overhaul”. To my understanding, this will involve taking the engine out and to the shop for new head gasket, valve lap, all new seals and inspection. I assume this inspection could lead to additional work, potentially a full overhaul/rebuild. I have a trusted relationship with him and have no reason to think the work scope would increase unless necessary.

Additional work already on the list includes new engine anodes (They’re seized, haven’t been replaced in years, but will be easy to reach and repair if needed while the engine is out.), replacement of a couple still functional but original cooling hoses, new throttle and shift cables, and new engine mounts (Originals were surprisingly good until late this year when engine vibration increased and at least one engine mount began to show signs of settlement or sheering.). I’ve yet to research and decide between Yanmar, Ellebogen or others. It seems like much of what an engine this age might need has already been done.

The previous owner sailed this boat until he was 83. I’m 65, in good health, and hope to beat his record. That is to say, I’m looking at the long haul, with no intention of selling the boat anytime soon, and want it to be as trouble free as possible in the coming years.

So…. after all that background, my questions are:
1) Should I request a full engine overhaul/rebuild now instead of only a top overhaul or just wait and see what my mechanic finds?
2) What else should/could we take care of while the engine is out?
3) Does anyone who has replaced engine mounts recently have recommendations or wisdom to share?
.
 
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May 1, 2011
4,726
Pearson 37 Lusby MD
How many hours on the engine? If you're planning on sailing for another 20 years, it may not be a bad idea to do a full overhaul while the engine is out of the boat.
 
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Jan 7, 2011
5,249
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
If it was just the head gasket, I would pull the head myself, take it to the mechanic for valve work, and out it back in with a new gasket.

But if you have a good mechanic, and lots of money, your plan sounds solid. As you said, you want to keep the boat another 20+ years.

Certainly replace engine mounts if they are old or soft. Check or rebuild oil pump? Drop pan and replace gasket. Check pistons and rings? Crank bearings?

Do you know how many hours in the engine?

I would still only pull the head, have it inspected and tuned up, and put it back together…but I am cheap :cool:


Greg
 
Oct 6, 2007
1,099
Hunter H30 1982 Chicago IL
How many hours on the engine? If you're planning on sailing for another 20 years, it may not be a bad idea to do a full overhaul while the engine is out of the boat.
Kappy,

My best guess/estimate is somewhere between 3,000 and 4,200 engine hours. There is no engine hour meter. Now might be a good time to add one.

The boat has been in Chicago with a five to six month sailing season since it was new, so the engine has effectively been pickled in antifreeze and stored with clean oil for half its life. It has also been pretty meticulously maintained by both I and the previous owner. With my plan to keep the boat long term, I was thinking along the same lines about a full overhaul. For a 42 year old engine, I was kind of surprised my mechanic didn’t recommend full overhaul, but with the comparatively low engine hours, he didn’t think it’s necessary yet.

Looking around on-line I see anywhere from 5,000 to 15,000 hours as the recommended overhaul/rebuild point, depending on maintenance.
 
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Oct 6, 2007
1,099
Hunter H30 1982 Chicago IL
If it was just the head gasket, I would pull the head myself, take it to the mechanic for valve work, and out it back in with a new gasket.

But if you have a good mechanic, and lots of money, your plan sounds solid. As you said, you want to keep the boat another 20+ years.

Certainly replace engine mounts if they are old or soft. Check or rebuild oil pump? Drop pan and replace gasket. Check pistons and rings? Crank bearings?

Do you know how many hours in the engine?

I would still only pull the head, have it inspected and tuned up, and put it back together…but I am cheap :cool:


Greg
Greg,

My best guess on engine hours is somewhere between 3,000 and 4,200. Pretty low for a 42 year old engine.

Engine mounts are a must at this point. Oil pan and gasket are included in resealing everything. I believe checking pistons, rings, crank bearings is part of the shop inspection, but will confirm. The oil pump is one I had not thought of. Exactly the kind of comments I was looking for.

You’re not cheap. You have more mechanical knowledge than I and it saves you money! I’m OK doing basic routine diesel maintenance, but for anything beyond that I need a professional to keep me out of trouble.

Thanks,
James
 
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jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
22,211
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
James,
I tend to be like Greg in that some actions are not taken if they are not indicated as broken.

20 years times 80 hours = 1600 hours goal for future boat use.

If you plan to remove the engine and give it to the mechanic, he should be able to look at the parts mentioned by Greg
Check or rebuild oil pump?
Drop pan and replace gasket.
Check pistons and rings?
Crank bearings?
I would add the fuel system (e.g., pumps and lines) to the list and ask the mechanic to identify any additional work (e.g., a full overhaul) needed.

You might consider an oil analysis as part of your pre-decision data by Blackstone Lab. Oil Analysis | Blackstone Laboratories
It will tell you if there is wear on metal parts in the engine.
 
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Oct 6, 2007
1,099
Hunter H30 1982 Chicago IL
James,
I tend to be like Greg in that some actions are not taken if they are not indicated as broken.

20 years times 80 hours = 1600 hours goal for future boat use.

If you plan to remove the engine and give it to the mechanic, he should be able to look at the parts mentioned by Greg

I would add the fuel system (e.g., pumps and lines) to the list and ask the mechanic to identify any additional work (e.g., a full overhaul) needed.

You might consider an oil analysis as part of your pre-decision data by Blackstone Lab. Oil Analysis | Blackstone Laboratories
It will tell you if there is wear on metal parts in the engine.
Thanks,
Good ideas. I have more to think about. I had not thought about the fuel system. Timing on the oil analysis is bad because, not knowing if this work will happen as early as December or late as April, I changed the oil for winter storage.
 
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Jan 30, 2012
1,134
Nor'Sea 27 "Kiwanda" Portland/ Anacortes
Familiar with that specific Yanmar. Done that motor from wear to complete blue print rebuilds. Have a full rebuild in my shop right now. So far sounds like you mechanic knows the score. Symptoms suggesting repairs are necessary are no different here than any other motor. 3400 hrs with good maintenance is pretty young. So I say go with the data. Set the valve lash and do a compression test. The values will tell you if compression loss is valves or other. You can do a top leaving the motor in place. Generally expect two tops for each full rebuild. If compression measures up, consider oil consumption, then oil pressure. If these are in the zone no need to do anything - despite our understandable feeling something needs to be done because it is "old." Good data - do nothing. Bad data is when diagnosis starts. Light on data here but definitely compression test, and retorque, if that does not do seal the oil leak then "off with its head." If you do a top then have the machinist do the whole thing ie check the head for flat, guides, seats, valves sealed, etc. Send me a note if you have questions - otherwise available by phone too.

ps have shop manual with specs. Let me know if your machinist/mechanic needs it. Need to send via Email too big for PM.
 
Mar 8, 2019
111
ODay 322 Bodkin Creek, Chesapeake Bay
If the engine comes out it is silly to not take the opportunity to replace the fuel and return hoses! Make sure to use ones with the USCG markings. If there is an original squeeze bulb primer replace it with the newer Racor that has the rubber primer button built in for around $160 - $200.

The bolt heads for my engine mounts were heavily rusted (maybe original?) and one bolt broke down in the bed rail. Despite being a licensed mechanic I paid somebody I respect to drill and tap what was left of the shank.
 
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Oct 6, 2007
1,099
Hunter H30 1982 Chicago IL
Familiar with that specific Yanmar. Done that motor from wear to complete blue print rebuilds. Have a full rebuild in my shop right now. So far sounds like you mechanic knows the score. Symptoms suggesting repairs are necessary are no different here than any other motor. 3400 hrs with good maintenance is pretty young. So I say go with the data. Set the valve lash and do a compression test. The values will tell you if compression loss is valves or other. You can do a top leaving the motor in place. Generally expect two tops for each full rebuild. If compression measures up, consider oil consumption, then oil pressure. If these are in the zone no need to do anything - despite our understandable feeling something needs to be done because it is "old." Good data - do nothing. Bad data is when diagnosis starts. Light on data here but definitely compression test, and retorque, if that does not do seal the oil leak then "off with its head." If you do a top then have the machinist do the whole thing ie check the head for flat, guides, seats, valves sealed, etc. Send me a note if you have questions - otherwise available by phone too.

ps have shop manual with specs. Let me know if your machinist/mechanic needs it. Need to send via Email too big for PM.
Charles,

I tend go into the “while we’re at mode” almost instinctively and can expand a project scope quickly, so your comments are especially helpful.
The top work proposed assumes machining is required, but testing compression and oil pressure, trying a retorque before proceeding with the top work makes sense. Start with the data first.
I do have a full 3-ring binder service manual for the 1GM-2GM-3GM. To be honest, much of it is Greek to me, but I still find it tremendously useful, especially the diagrams of each system. I’ll confirm that my mechanic/machinist has the same one.
 
Oct 6, 2007
1,099
Hunter H30 1982 Chicago IL
If the engine comes out it is silly to not take the opportunity to replace the fuel and return hoses! Make sure to use ones with the USCG markings. If there is an original squeeze bulb primer replace it with the newer Racor that has the rubber primer button built in for around $160 - $200.

The bolt heads for my engine mounts were heavily rusted (maybe original?) and one bolt broke down in the bed rail. Despite being a licensed mechanic I paid somebody I respect to drill and tap what was left of the shank.
Thanks Tin Kicker,
I replaced the fuel and return hoses in 2014 and will certainly assess this year if they should be replaced again. Ten years is about the recommended useful life. The ones I pulled out were original, stamped 1981. A year older than the boat! No leaks, but I won’t push my luck like that again.
There’s no primer bulb and the Racor spin-on is also from 2014. I would have preferred the clear bowl but went with metal because it’s in the engine compartment. I’ve finally mastered bleeding with just the manual lever on the fuel lift pump and it actually seems a bit quicker now with the new lift pump installed last summer.
Thankfully my engine mount bolts have no rust at all. One of the many benefits of being in fresh water.
 
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