82 Hunter 33 Rudder Stuffing leak, is stuffing above the waterline?

[norristm]

I have a 1982 Hunter 33 and the rudder stuffing is leaking. Is the stuffing above the waterline or does the boat have to be lifted to replace the stuffing. If anyone replaced the rudder stuffing, any tips would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Paul F]

The rudder stuffing box is just above the water line - until the stern is loaded and, or the boat is underway, then it is below the waterline and the stuffing box is needed to keep water out. Mine has leaked for years. You will find it first, very difficult to get back there and actually get to it. second, when you are there there is no room to work. third, the gap space to get packing into and out of is about an inch at best. For all of these reasons I leave mine alone and go on to the next to-do item on the list.

 

[ChuckThomas]

amen. my back is still hurting from getting back there.

 

[HunterSailorJax]

I had same problem on my '81. The rudder stuffing box is below the waterline. You can pack the stuffing box with it in the water. Its a real bear to get at it. Go thru the port quarterbearth aft bulkhead. The problem is that often the top nut corrodes and has to be replaced..and usually custom machines. Mine had most of the threads corroded off.. The boatyard had to rethread it. Definitely boatyard work. If its just leaking with no damage to the stuffing bog, then you can pack it just like the prop shaft stuffing box, except to tighten it for no leaks.

Good luck, skipper

 

[sandpiper10471]

Years ago I had an H33 and the top stuffing nut leaked. Rather than having one machined, I wrapped it in fiberglass cloth and epoxy. Fortunately the threads were fine. Worked well for many years after that.

 

[SamLust]

I had a replacement nut made by Buck Algonquin. I think it cost meabout $60.00 back then. This work is certainly "owner doable" but you'll want the boat out of the water so you can easily drop the rudder.

 

[cbsura]

I did this for my 1981 H33 two years ago. If you don't know the condition of your packing nut then I would recommend you wait until the boat is hauled. (The last thing you want to do is break off the nut while she's in the water.)

I suspect mine had never been serviced before. There were 30 to 40 drips per second and rust and grime had seized the nut. I wanted to preserve the original nut if at all possible since I didn't want to pull the rudder stock, so every weekend in the summer I would apply penetrating oil and tap it lightly with a metal hammer.

Once she was hauled for the winter I got down to business. Access is best through the quarterberth -- remove the carpeted plywood bulkhead, lay down down some seat cushions for your comfort and prop open the helm seat for light. I used an 18" monkey wrench to loosen the nut (counterclockwise viewed from above). Don't use a persuader or hammer on the wrench if it doesn't move at first -- you'll only break it. Just keep up the penetrating oil and tapping regimen. It may move a quarter- or half-turn and seize again, but remain patient. After 4 more weekends on the hard the nut came off intact.

I removed the old packing using a tool that looks like a small corkscrew I bought from West Marine. Replace it with new 3/16" teflon impregnated packing. The books tell you to put in 3 loops of packing but I could only fit 2 into this one. Wrap the packing around the rudder stock to get the right circumference and and cut it on a diagonal so the loop will overlap and seal itself when it's pressed into the nut. Screw the nut back on LOOSELY and write a note to yourself to check it at the spring launch. You want to tighten it until it just stops dripping. The idea is that over time you can keep tightenting the nut whenever it starts dripping again until that no longer works and you have to change the packing again. Never loosen the nut unless you plan to remove the packing.