80's Oday Interiors Woodwork
- Thread starter njlarry
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Larry the interior wood is teak. I cleaned and oiled mine the first two years. Than I eventually varnished it with spar varnish. The varnish is the look for me however a lot of work to get it that way.
Glad you brought up this question Larry, I've been wondering the same thing about my '78. I think I'll be going the oil route, varnish seems to be much more maintenance and although it probably looks much nicer, my boat doesn't require that look for the price I paid for it! I think with a good sanding and decent oil job it will bring the wood back to life.
I am rebuilding my odayowners 26 and am very happy with an interior stain of CAbbot red mahohogany finished with four coats of cabbot brand polyurethane. as always, the surface prep is far more important than what u actually use (assuming comparability issues are taken into account)! eXterior? natural teak cetol
I stained all my cabin wood with a red Mahogany stain and used a spar varnish. I would never have attempted doing it without removing all the wood from the cabin including the bulkheads and the galley cabinet. It was a lot of work but if you consider trying to work on wood surrounded by a fabric headliner, it was the right choice for me. The varnished wood in the cabin should hold up quite well when you consider that it isn't exposed to the sun and elements. Most of the wood in my boat is Teak plywood with a veneer. A friend of mine had given me some boxes of Cellophane disposable gloves and I kept them in my cabin for three years and was going to throw them out after the cardboard boxes got wet and deteriorated, but boy was I glad that I kept them for this particular job. They really came in handy. My biggest mistake was to varnish the outside of my Pen boards, because they look like they need to be varnished again, but then, so doesn't my tiller. My original wood in the cabin was Teak ply, but I'm pretty sure that they sprayed it with a light coat of varnish. The last picture shows the finished product except for the old settee compartment covers. I built some new covers to replace them, and I was still in the process of staining and varnishing them when this picture was taken.
Joe
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I used some 4'X4'X 3/8" plywood sheets that I picked up at Home Depot. I'm not sure if it was birch, but it did have some knots on one side which really doesn't matter much as they are under a mattress most of the time. As I was sanding them though before staining them, I noticed that the unfinished wood can splinter very easy in spite of the fact that I rounded the the edges including the finger holes. After I added the coats of varnish, they held together OK and looked pretty good. My friend and fellow YC member, Wayne, built plywood covers for his Seaward 22 and sealed them with Fiberglass Epoxy, which may be a better idea. He also installed locks on them. He has replaced a lot of his Teak with Star Board, like the hand rails, pen boards, and other wood trim that he had in the cockpit of his boat. My old covers were 1/4" plywood and they were delaminated and falling apart. All the covers on my boat are the same width, but the covers under the V berth are shorter than the covers under my settees. They were easy to make. After I cut all the widths, I made my final cuts all at once with my table saw and rounded all the corners of each of the two stacks of covers with my band saw. I wound up with two stacks of covers and I only had to cut through each stack with a 1" hole saw for the finger holes.
Joe is right about taking everything out.....but i would not let that deter me if you don't want to do that. If you are very carefull and tape your edges and borders like you were obsessive-compulsive about it, then you can get away with minimal dissasembly. It is pretty easy to get most things out because everything is screwed in, not glues like in house furniture. Do yourself a favor and get a dewalt cordless screw driver. It can get you to every bolt and screw on the boat if you have the right bits, extensions, etc. Be sure you save all your screws. They are expensive being stainless steel.
Attached are pictures of most of my assembly. I had a lot of rot and had to replace all my bulkheads and the sink top, and shelf in the head. I Chose to paint my bulkheads, and am very pleased the the durability of the paint i chose. It seems hard as a rock. I saved all the hardwood teak trim, and have most of it installed except for the port bulkhead, and the forward bulkhead edges. There is alot more that can be said about all the tear out, liner replacement, plywood choices and preparation, etc. But if you browse around old threads you will find a lot of info on all that. The pictures of all the cans is a picture of all the paints, varnishes etc. I used to finish my boat.
Today i managed to finish putting together the forward lavatory, and the cushion backings. My family has had some health issues, so i am not as far along as i would like to be. but i can see the end of the tunnel. If you want to see what all i have done you can visit my album on my profile, or look up some of my older posts. I have had a lot of fun rebuilding my boat. and have learned alot about boats and maintainence. Good luck!
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As said, I removed all woodwork, replaced what was damaged, and then started cleaning the old stuff. I used Don Casey's mix of water, laundry detergent and bleach. Soaked it in good, brushed it with a stiff brush , rinsed and dried by the wood stove. Then I went one step further to try to match the old to the new. I soaked in a solution of oxalic acid and rinsed and dried. Then sanded enough to take off the raised grain and soaked in a homemade solution of 1 part solvent based gloss polyurethane, 1 part boiled linseed oil and 1 part mineral spirits. Soak in just like stain, and after no more will soak in, wipe with a linen cloth. When dry, lightly sand and do again. when the solution starts to "stiffen" wipe to a nice satin finish. Now the only maintenance is a yearly wipe down with lemon oil.
The only problem with taking all the wood out of the cabin that I found was that some of the trim moldings and a corner area of the galley cabinet had bungs. I removed the compression post in my boat with the long wood trim molding that runs athwart-ships along the ceiling, in tact. This molding ties the two halves of the main bulkheads together and is screwed to the compression with bungs over it. It resembles a large T when it's pulled out. Most of that molding was held together with screws and bungs through the bulkhead, in the V birth section. I didn't bother replacing the bungs in the V birth section. I was more concerned with trying to remove the wood without having to deal with a lot of bungs. I'm more concerned with how it looks when viewed from the companionway and a little less concerned about missing bungs when you peek around the corner of the V birth section. I'm kind of a hack when it comes to doing any boat finish work. I'm getting too old to take the pains, I guess.
I have a 1985 Oday 23 that needed new bulkheads.
I stayed true to the integritty of the boat's builders and used 1/2 inch marine teak plywood to replace those bulkheads. It was expensive, but I couldn't stand the look of any regular plywood (finished ply of course) I was only going to do it once so we decided to do it right. Plus for resale the value of the boat is probably much higher than if we used regular stained plywood. So far have not needed to oil teak BH's as they still look great!
Don't forget to caulk those deck chainplates to keep your bulkheads dry!
I stayed true to the integritty of the boat's builders and used 1/2 inch marine teak plywood to replace those bulkheads. It was expensive, but I couldn't stand the look of any regular plywood (finished ply of course) I was only going to do it once so we decided to do it right. Plus for resale the value of the boat is probably much higher than if we used regular stained plywood. So far have not needed to oil teak BH's as they still look great!
Don't forget to caulk those deck chainplates to keep your bulkheads dry!
My '82 O'Day 25 has teak inside. I use teak oil and it seems to cover the faded places and evens out the color.
My '82 O'Day 25 had teak bulkheads. I bought the boat in 2008 and used teak oil to bring out the color. No cleaning was necessary.
Scott...
You're my "go-to" guy on all things wood. Before switching from oiled interior teak to spar varnish, is it necessary to use some kind of stripper to clear out old oil finish before applying the varnish? I'm thinking that the pre-existing oil might leech out or something to screw up the varnish. Thoughts on surface prep?
Pete
You're my "go-to" guy on all things wood. Before switching from oiled interior teak to spar varnish, is it necessary to use some kind of stripper to clear out old oil finish before applying the varnish? I'm thinking that the pre-existing oil might leech out or something to screw up the varnish. Thoughts on surface prep?
Pete
It depends
My boat was 23 years old when I got it so I had no idea what finishes cleaners or oils were used prior to my ownership. Our first two years I tried the teak cleanears and oils, but became very unhappy with the longeveity of the oils, they just absorbed dirt in my opinion.
The biggest thing is compatability, your never going to remove what is already in the wood. Try a small area and see what happens. If the finish begins to fish eye or orange peel, try something different.
This is what worked for me.
1st sanded with 180 trimite (freecut) sandpaper by 3M with random orbital sander.
2nd cleaned of with compressed air
3rd Jamestown Dist. Sells a two part penetrating epoxy. Can't remeber the name of it off hand but it is thinner than water. Depending on the absorbtion rate of the wood I used either one or two coats.
4th
My boat was 23 years old when I got it so I had no idea what finishes cleaners or oils were used prior to my ownership. Our first two years I tried the teak cleanears and oils, but became very unhappy with the longeveity of the oils, they just absorbed dirt in my opinion.
The biggest thing is compatability, your never going to remove what is already in the wood. Try a small area and see what happens. If the finish begins to fish eye or orange peel, try something different.
This is what worked for me.
1st sanded with 180 trimite (freecut) sandpaper by 3M with random orbital sander.
2nd cleaned of with compressed air
3rd Jamestown Dist. Sells a two part penetrating epoxy. Can't remeber the name of it off hand but it is thinner than water. Depending on the absorbtion rate of the wood I used either one or two coats.
4th
Re: It depends
4th I used Minwax Gloss Spar Varnish cut 1-1 for the first coat
5th Minwax Gloss Spar Varnish 3-1 for second coat
6th Three more straight coats on the interiors Five more on the exteriors
sanded inbetween each coat with 3-M Trimite open coat 220 sand paper in between coats.
End results are very nice, Would not compare to the finish on a Hinkley or the work Charlie Cobra does, however if I spent that much time finishing my woodwork I would not be able to enjoy the boat.
Most important thing exterior is if you get a ding in the finish is to touch it up with a few coats of varnish before the weather, rain and especially the sunlight get below the surrounding finish.
4th I used Minwax Gloss Spar Varnish cut 1-1 for the first coat
5th Minwax Gloss Spar Varnish 3-1 for second coat
6th Three more straight coats on the interiors Five more on the exteriors
sanded inbetween each coat with 3-M Trimite open coat 220 sand paper in between coats.
End results are very nice, Would not compare to the finish on a Hinkley or the work Charlie Cobra does, however if I spent that much time finishing my woodwork I would not be able to enjoy the boat.
Most important thing exterior is if you get a ding in the finish is to touch it up with a few coats of varnish before the weather, rain and especially the sunlight get below the surrounding finish.
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