79' C7C 30 mast lights/wiring

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,335
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
That’s ok WM. We make the best decision at the time. We can make new decisions and further modify or improve the boat as we go.

Most important is to use the boat while you are improving it.
 
Oct 26, 2008
6,302
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
May well end up rewiring. If not now, in the future. Out of curiosity, there is no way to install and anchor conduit, or anchor the new wire anywhere but at the receptacle, and near the bottom of the mast, right? I mean the mast itself is a large diameter conduit for halyards and wires, right?
I had the mast down on my Starwind 27 well over a decade ago to paint it and replace the wiring. I was able to bring the mast home and do all the work in my basement over the winter. The boat was at least 20 years old at the time and the plastic conduit inside was brittle and crumbling and needed replacement. I'm guessing that it was about 1" diameter. Honestly, I don't remember exactly how I did it. The original conduit was fastened at the front of the mast with aluminum rivets, which were easy to drill out. I replaced it with plastic conduit but I used plumbing conduit with a thicker wall than the original electrical conduit. I don't remember it being difficult at all. I must have placed it with the forward side down so that gravity was putting the conduit in the correct position. Then I would have filled the mast somehow to hold the conduit in place while I drilled the holes through the conduit. Obviously, I had pre-drilled holes in the mast from the previous installation. Then it was simple to secure it with new aluminum rivets. The mast was about 33' long and rivets were maybe every 5' or 6'. I probably wouldn't have thought about doing this if the conduit hadn't already been in place.

Some masts have wiring loose within the mast. I'm not crazy about that. They slap and there is always a chance to get entangled with the halyards. Many sailors use wire ties to secure the wiring and leave the tails on the ties to keep the wires from slapping. That may be your simplest technique. The mast on my Catalina has two 3/4" conduit for wiring and the conduits are secured by tracks at the leading edge of the mast. Not having the correct conduit parts or the know-how to install the conduit, I left the conduit and wiring in place during my only winter with the mast down. I didn't have a compelling reason to change anything. By all means, replace the lights with LED while you have the chance. Much less current is needed for the lights. I'm liking these Deutsch connectors. Here is a 4-pin connector with 10-12 AWG contacts. You can find a variety in wire sizes and numbers of pin connectors with this product to suit your needs.


For LED lights, I recommend MarineBeam. I put a combo Steaming/deck light on my mast and an anchor light that is also a tricolor/strobe at the mast head this year. I didn't change the wiring though.

 
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Ward H

.
Nov 7, 2011
3,790
Catalina 30 Mk II Cedar Creek, Bayville NJ
Then I would have filled the mast somehow to hold the conduit in place while I drilled the holes through the conduit.
After the first rivet is in place, each rivet will hold the conduit tight enough to the mast to allow the drilling of the next hole.

What crimper do you use for the stamped contacts?
 
Apr 21, 2021
75
C&C 30 Harrison Township, MI
Finally got over to look at the mast (not stored at the marina). The VHF coax has no connector, and will need one, but there is a large gauge "lamp cord" for the lights. From what I can see it is 12 gauge. Rubber insulation seems to be in good shape (flexible and not dried out) but only 2 conductors. Either the anchor light and steaming light both go on and off together, or they use the mast for ground, but didn't see a terminal on the mast itself to connect the mast to system ground. It's also possible this is someone's 'repair', and only 1 light is actually wired.
Didn't have any tools, or flashlight (unplanned trip, I was on that side of the river and just stopped to look) so I couldn't see inside the mast to see if there is a conduit.
The anchor light needs to be replaced, socket and connectors badly corroded. Didn't open the streaming light to inspect inside, though the outside looked much better than the masthead light.
Next time I will bring a couple tools, and someone to see if existing wire is anchored or can be used to pull a pull string. I never use old wire to pull new. A string offers less resistance, is more accommodating, and is less likely to break when pulling in the new wire.
Looks like new LEDs are in order, at least for the anchor light, probably both.
 
Apr 21, 2021
75
C&C 30 Harrison Township, MI
Taking a second look at the anchor light; the non-stainless screws, the lamp cord wiring, etc. I'm leaning more toward the "someone's repair" theory. That strongly increases the odds the wire isn't anchored anywhere. It also makes me wonder where the wires to the steaming light might be.
I'm assuming I could remove that cast top if necessary.

AnchorLightW.png
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,335
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
I can do an "as built" documenting as I go.
That is what we owners of mature boats have to do. Label the wires. MaineSail has shared some good techniques for labeling wires on his web site Marine How To - DIY for Boaters - Marine How To. If you find his ideas helpful it would not be unkind to leave a small donation.

I’m rewiring my boat. Will include a completed diagram of the systems and where they lead for the next owner. This goes along with extensive labeling of wires. It seems only fair to pass it forward.