78 M22 Interior Cleanup Progress Pics...

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Aug 15, 2010
376
MacGregor 22 Hilo
Group,

We've had Kumukahi exactly one month today! :dance:

(To recap: she sat at mooring in seawater for a long time; and has been on a trailer since 2008. The hull was severely blistered below the waterline; and the interior showed the usual: water, dirt, leaves, etc. It was pretty awful inside when we got her.)

Since basically everything's there, our first two concerns have been restoring the outer hull and inner cabin. We want her seaworthy, but also clean inside. When I can, I'm working on the hull during the day; and on the inerior during the evening when the temperatures go down a bit.

Today, the work on the hull is progressing. I'm still repairing blisters; undoing unacceptable automotive Bondo repairs done by the PO; our Tuff Stuff Epoxy Primer arrived yesterday; and today we ordered our ablative top coat from the Bottom Paint Store. There's still considerable work left to do, but it's working out nicely. Thanks to all here for their help and advice.

In the cabin, we'd removed all the stashed components and bulkheads; vacuumed out the debris; washed her down inside; removed stubborn "substances" and stains using everything from bathroom cleaners to acetone; and after all that, we're happy to say the original gel coat is in pretty nice condition. Still shiny in most places.

The worst part of the cabin now is the starboard seat / table area: someone painted that a flat tan, and it's peeling off in many places. Have also found a few small wet blisters that need attention.

So, I'm in the process of removing the old paint and fine sanding the gel coat where necessary. In most areas, and especially on the textured "tread surfaces", I'm finding that paint remover and soft plastic squeegies or brushes are taking off the paint while leaving the gel coat intact pretty much intact. Will probably top with good primer and paint.

Here's some pictures I took today, to show how it's coming along. Aloha!

VBR,

Pat
 

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Last edited:
Jun 3, 2004
1,863
Macgregor 25 So. Cal.
Windex is a easy to use cleaner with a terry towel.

Pledge funriture polish and a micro fiber towel make for a quick detail of the entire inside of the boat and the lemon scent is nice too.
 

Timo42

.
Mar 26, 2007
1,042
Venture 22 Marina del Rey
Look at Kiwigrip for the nonskid, I used it on my foredeck when I replaced the hatch, and am going to do the rest of the nonskid as I have time.
 
Jul 29, 2010
1,392
Macgregor 76 V-25 #928 Lake Mead, Nevada
:DYou must be younger than me. You have the ambition I had 30 years ago. Now I'm between 60 and death. All your hard work will pay off in a beautiful boat you can be proud of. Some years back a sailing buddy refitted his boat with all Harken hardware. He said, "I won't sail any better, I'll just sail prettier." Couple of questions/suggestions. When I got Freedom PHRF 57806 in 1976 it was a bare boat I picked up at the factory and I built all the interior, installed all the deck hardware, masthead rigged her with interior halyards and led everything into the cockpit myself. I can pretty much single hand her this way. I started a ships log before I ever put her in the water and noted all the work I put in. You'll surprise yourself when you read it years later and realize how much love and time you put in. Although I had a V222, "Penny Sue too" it was a 1971. Is there room under the settee hatch near the starboard side of the keel to mount your battery in a battery box with a lid secured to the hull. Also think about a deep cycle marine gel battery. They will hold a charge a lot longer than a regular battery and there's less chance of spilling acid. You need to keep as much weight out of the stern as possible. Shifting 30 pounds forward will make a 60 pound difference in the balance. Are you backing up all winches, stanchions, cleats, rails, pulpits, etc with aluminum plate? I've seen stanchions ripped out the deck. If not already done, think about splitting your backstay and adding an adjuster. This will keep from tearing up your tiller and will allow you to adjust your mast tension. Also as I mentioned before you might think about mounting your main sheet mid boom. You'll point higher, clear out stern area and mainsheet will be easier to reach under sail. Following your progress. Keep us posted. The voice of experience. Have you taken a second mortgage on your house for all the improvements. Fair winds...
 
Jul 29, 2010
1,392
Macgregor 76 V-25 #928 Lake Mead, Nevada
What does KUMUKAHI mean. Cool Name. Oh did I forget about the polyestermites.:eek: Thet eat termites for breakfast as well as fiberglass. Just Kidding:) Fair Winds...
 
Aug 15, 2010
376
MacGregor 22 Hilo
Windex is a easy to use cleaner with a terry towel.

Pledge funriture polish and a micro fiber towel make for a quick detail of the entire inside of the boat and the lemon scent is nice too.
HA! My wife said, "Try Windex" and I said "Naw, that'll never work!" She'll enjoy watching me eat humble pie tonight! :redface:

Like the Pledge idea, too. Love that smell on our furniture, and one thing my wife insists on: the boat's GOTTA smell nice inside.

Thanks for the tips, Timebandit! :)

VBR,

Pat
 
Aug 15, 2010
376
MacGregor 22 Hilo
Look at Kiwigrip for the nonskid, I used it on my foredeck when I replaced the hatch, and am going to do the rest of the nonskid as I have time.
I'll look into it, Timo, thanks. I've noticed some boats have the anti-skid portions of the deck painted either gray or light blue. I like how that looks, and it seems like it will reduce the reflected glare in bright sunlight, so I'm going to paint those areas light gray.

VBR,

Pat
 
Aug 15, 2010
376
MacGregor 22 Hilo
:DYou must be younger than me. You have the ambition I had 30 years ago. Now I'm between 60 and death. All your hard work will pay off in a beautiful boat you can be proud of. Some years back a sailing buddy refitted his boat with all Harken hardware. He said, "I won't sail any better, I'll just sail prettier." Couple of questions/suggestions. When I got Freedom PHRF 57806 in 1976 it was a bare boat I picked up at the factory and I built all the interior, installed all the deck hardware, masthead rigged her with interior halyards and led everything into the cockpit myself. I can pretty much single hand her this way. I started a ships log before I ever put her in the water and noted all the work I put in. You'll surprise yourself when you read it years later and realize how much love and time you put in. Although I had a V222, "Penny Sue too" it was a 1971. Is there room under the settee hatch near the starboard side of the keel to mount your battery in a battery box with a lid secured to the hull. Also think about a deep cycle marine gel battery. They will hold a charge a lot longer than a regular battery and there's less chance of spilling acid. You need to keep as much weight out of the stern as possible. Shifting 30 pounds forward will make a 60 pound difference in the balance. Are you backing up all winches, stanchions, cleats, rails, pulpits, etc with aluminum plate? I've seen stanchions ripped out the deck. If not already done, think about splitting your backstay and adding an adjuster. This will keep from tearing up your tiller and will allow you to adjust your mast tension. Also as I mentioned before you might think about mounting your main sheet mid boom. You'll point higher, clear out stern area and mainsheet will be easier to reach under sail. Following your progress. Keep us posted. The voice of experience. Have you taken a second mortgage on your house for all the improvements. Fair winds...
Thanks Freedom!

Just turned 61 last month. I seem obsessed with this project, to the point that other things (my "real" job, the Honeydew list, other projects, my physical fitness program, etc.) seem to have taken a backseat. Probably should be managing my time better but, like Mr. Toad, I seem to be fascinated with "messing around in boats." :D

Thanks for all the info about the rigging. I'm going to copy and paste that into a Word document for referral when I get to stringing the stays, shrouds, halyards, and sheets.

Roger that on the batteries. We already have several deep cycle Optima sealed gel-mat batteries from previous projects. Seawater and battery acid generate chlorine gas: sure don't want that. Or fire... :eek:

At this point, the first goal is to get the hull seaworthy; the interior clean; and put her back in the water for test runs using the existing hardware and rigging. All the mounts are original except for the bow pulpit rails, which the PO removed. He rebedded those areas with plywood stringers glassed in. I'll have to see how that works out, and maybe change it later.

The backstay has those Mac-type stainless vernier adjusters. The mast and rigging are high and dry in the shop. I'll have to go check it out to see if the back stay is split and turnbuckled.

REALLY INTERESTED IN YOUR POINT ABOUT WEIGHT AND BALANCE: Can ANYONE tell me where the Longitudinal Center of Weight is on the boat? (The point, fore to aft, where the boat would balance if we placed it, dry, on a fulcrum: like a teeter-totter.)

Would that balance point be about the same distance from, say, the tip of the bow, as the mast-mount and keel pivot bolt are?

Or would the Center of Weight be further forward or aft of that?

(I need to know for purposes of slinging the boat and lifting it with my forklift; and to calculate the placement of internal stowage, too.)

About sheeting the main at mid-boom: I can see how that would clean up the cockpit clutter, but don't understand how that will enable the boat to point higher. Is there a simple answer to that?

The boat really hasn't been a burden on our expenses. (I usually don't talk about what I paid for things, but what the heck.) The boat and trailer cost me $800. Late registration fees, current registration, and dock fees were $90. (Future regs are $20 per year." I spent about $90 for a motorized keel winch. $11 for a main sheet pulley block. Hull paint has been the biggest expense so far: Tuff Stuff Primer and Mission Bay ablative topcoat from the Bottom Paint Store were $319, of which $62 were shipping to Hawaii. Other than that, filler, sand paper, laminating resin and cloth for internal reinforcements came to about $97.

(I did buy a new sander, dust mask, face shield, and lifting slings; but I never add the cost of tools because they always get used for other projects, too.)

Lots of other things, I already had: polyurethane for the woodwork; wiring and switches for the electrical; fishfinder and transducer; bilge pumps; cabin blowers; batteries; etc.)

So where we stand right now, it's cost us about $1,317. Add to that some calking for the rub rail; trim wood for the ceiling / tub joint; and I'm guessing we'll be about $1400 come test time, if I borrow a small outboard.


I've always wanted a small Zodiac for diving, so we'll eventually buy that for a dingy, modify the mount for a long shaft as Sumner did, and use that motor for the sailboat.

Over here, the trailer (made for a much larger boat) is worth about $2500 after I clean it up, replace the bunks, make and install some fenders and lights (already have the materials and parts).

In this economy, a Mac like this might fetch about $2500 in Hawaii; and if I pretty it up with more paint, new upholstery, paneling, a radio and such, I can easily see myself spending that. Some might criticize the wisdom of that investment; but if I was only interested in the money, I'd have left it in the bank.

This way, I'm learning to refurbish a boat, learning to sail, and getting a camper / cruiser that will really be a lot of fun when I retire next year.

So to those "non-boat owning whuffos" out there who think money is everything, and/or always want to rain on someone's parade, I say: "To my wife and me, it's well worth it." :)

Oh, to answer your last post: Kumukahi means "new beginnings" in the Hawaiian language. That was the name of the boat when we got it; some say it's bad luck to change a boat's name; and it just seemed appropriate to us, considering this is our first sailboat and a gateway to, well, new beginnings. :)

VBR,

Pat
 

r.oril

.
Oct 29, 2008
586
MacGregor 26D and Catalina 30 26 - 30 Lancaster, CA
:DWindex and Pledge, I have got to try that! I was in the cabin last weekend banging my head as I cleaned up the inside. At least the nice smell will make the hurt less noticeable. Thanks
 
Jul 29, 2010
1,392
Macgregor 76 V-25 #928 Lake Mead, Nevada
How many cases of beer does it take to refurbish a sailboat?;) "New Beginnings" wonderful. You got a great deal if it was twice the price. The center point you asked about depends on how much stuff you have in the boat at the time and where it is located in the boat. The emptier ther betterer. I've always found that a heavy canvas lifting strap about mid cockpit and one about midway between mast and bow work fine. It ain't rocket science. Sounds like you've got a handle on it with the forklift. I gotta get me one of them. Hurry up and get her in the water before the Pacific dries up:D Fair Winds...
 
Jul 29, 2010
1,392
Macgregor 76 V-25 #928 Lake Mead, Nevada
I don't know if changing a boat name is bad luck, But my dad was aboard an escort carrier named the Midway in October 1944. The navy launched, at the time, the newest supercarrier and decided to name it the Midway (Which is now a museum in San Diego) They renamed his ship the USS St. Lo. The old timers said this was a bad omen. Sure enough two weeks later she was sunk by a kamikaze at the battle of Leyte Gulf in the Phillipines. My dad had the dubious distinction of being aboard the first U.S. Navy ship to be sunk by a Kamikaze. Coincidence, perhaps. Fair winds...
 
Jan 19, 2010
12,553
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
REALLY INTERESTED IN YOUR POINT ABOUT WEIGHT AND BALANCE: Can ANYONE tell me where the Longitudinal Center of Weight is on the boat? (The point, fore to aft, where the boat would balance if we placed it, dry, on a fulcrum: like a teeter-totter.)

I own the same model boat but I can't claim to actually know the answer to this question. I do know however that if the boat was designed well, the center of the keel's width will represent the center of lateral resistance. I've read several books on boat design and they all say that you should build a model of the boat, balance the boat on a ruler and place the center of the keel at this balance point.

I would guess you need to put the forks of your lift on either side of the keel trunk pivot housing. But it is just a guess.
 
Jul 29, 2010
1,392
Macgregor 76 V-25 #928 Lake Mead, Nevada
Well, apparently it is rocket science. rgranger seems to know his stuff. And I thought the keel was just a big blob of scrap metal they threw in at the last minute.:doh:
 
Jul 29, 2010
1,392
Macgregor 76 V-25 #928 Lake Mead, Nevada
In answer to you question about the mid boom main sheeting. The stock hardware is aft of the boom end, therefore it can't be sheeted as close to centerline and consequently will not point as high as with mid boom sheeting. You also don't get as much purchase. On my 222 I put a heavy eyebolt through the step just outside the cabin backed up with oak plank and BIG washers. Attached a bale to the boom and got double block for boom and single block with locking cleat for deck. HUGE difference.Could immediatley get closer to the wind. On my 25 I did same thing except I put in a traveler the width of the cockpit. I can adjust the mast to centerline and above if I want to. Also work downwind by letting traveler to leeward. Sorry, don't have any pictures. All the big suppliers, Harken, etc. sell this stuff. I'll betcha some boat in your local marina has this setup. Check around and ask questions. Fair winds....
 
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