'78 25 Centerboard

[Hoosier Kevin]

I have my '78 O'Day 25 blocked up for the summer working on the centerboard.
Last October when I hired a diver to replace my ancient frayed pendant with a fresh D&R pendant from Rudy, a miscommunication led to a jammed pendant in the tube leading to the cockpit and a swinging centerboard!
After spending the winter fretting on how best to jack the boat off the trailer and agonizing on how to work on the centerboard without risking loss of life I was able to come up with a great solution - the GoHoist portable boat lift that I described in an earlier post.
Now I am focused with new opportunities to truly understand how this centerboard to pendant to cockpit design works!
After removing the centerboard which went well! and was much easier than expected; then cleaning the board from years of use without maintenance I have moved on to the dry fit of the board attached to the pendant and pulled up through the cockpit.
Seems to work well, smooth - a little heavier than when on the water but does not appear to get stuck when in the up position.
This is my problem - here is where I need help; the board doesn't go all the way into the bunk; it is short about two inches.
My question - Is this "normal"?; is it OK? because it still seems to give so that it would do well on the trailer .
I know there has been much - very much! discussion about boards getting stuck, but I don't think this issues has come up.
I don't want to force up the pendant any more because I have been there!
Your comments appreciated, I have attached some photos - Thanks!

 

[LeeandRick]

More than likely the shackle is touching the sides of the well at the top or the thick part of the splices is stopping in the groove that was cut by the old cable. I was going to use D&R attachment method but it would not fit. I drilled a hole for the line through the trailing edge of the CB along it's chord then a hole from side to side about 3" from the trailing edge. This hole is large enough to hold a knot to keep the line in place. No fittings at all. If you do have the groove you can smooth it out with a round file attached to a stick.

Can you push the CB up flush by hand? If you can and it does not hang then you are probably good to go. I also modified my trailers keel rest so the CB well is visible when on the trailer to facilitate washing the well with my power washer.

 

[Hoosier Kevin]

I can push the board up so that it is flush with the centerboard bunk. I believe it should be OK on the trailer keel rest. My trailer's keel rest is a flat board; how is your trailer set up so that you can power wash the centerboard?

Thanks for your reply - Hoosier Kevin

 

[LeeandRick]

I cut a slot in the flat board the width (slightly wider) and length of the centerboard well. My keel alignment boards only allow 1/2" side to side movement so the well lines up nicely each time. Unfortunately there is a cross brace on the trailer so I can't drop the CB more than 2" I still have to raise the boat to do CB maintenance.

 

[svchickadee]

Call Rudy at D&R Marine and see what he says.

 

[Ward H]

Since the CB moves up into the trunk easily try putting a small line on the shackle to retrieve it if it gets stuck. Then pull the shackle up into the trunk to see where/why it gets stuck.
That is how I found that the clevis pin in the shackle was too long and was getting stuck about 6" shy from where it should have.
To smooth out the groove the line cut into the fiberglass tube I had a local machine shop cut a SS insert with a flanged end that I epoxied into the tube. Kind of like installing a bushing. Worked real well.