'77-'83 Hunter 33 De-lamination During my search to buy a Hunter 33 I have discovered de-lamination in the side deck area amidships near the chain-plates to be a common occurrence. This de-lamination is evidenced by the crackling noise resulting from walking on this area. Will any body tell me what if any core material is used in this area? I understand that de-lamination repairs are done by drilling holes through the top layer of lay-up and through the core material to the top of the underside lay-up. Then the holes are filled with epoxy to form a dowel between the surfaces. Are these epoxy dowel repairs adequate? I have read in this form that de-lamination can be wet or dry. If the de-lamination amidships is dry, would this type de-lam in this area be the result of structural stress? And again, are epoxy dowel repairs adequate? Can anyone help me understand more of this type of repair in the area described? Thanks for any info offered. David
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Sam Lust
Don't assume ---
- - - that 33's were built the same through the entire production run. Material changed on a moment to moment basis depending on what was available and the mood of the particular worker. Examples: the bottoms of my drawers are all teak and holly floor plywood, turned wrong face up. The stiffening piece under the anchor locker is a piece of the formica laminated counter top 3/4 inch plywood used for the galley counter. Interior fittings seem to be different with no rhyme or reason. On my 1983 33, my side decks are cored with plywood. I KNOW this to be fact because I cut 33 1 1/4 inch holes in each side deck to mount my 11 foot genoa tracks. The hole plugs were all plywood. When I cut a 4 1/2 inch hole in the cabin top for the diesel heater vent stack a small distance from the mast I found balsa core as well as solid filler which was used directly under the mast step. Rot and delamination in the chain plate area where the plates come through the deck are not out of the ordinary on just about any boat. Old bedding material and lots of flex make for water intrusion. If I were making the repair I would cut out a section of deck, get rid of all the wood mush, mix up and fill with some thickened resin. I think polyester in a repair this big might be ok. Mash in the removed piece of deck so the resin squeezes out, and allow to cure. Sand flush and paint. Sounds so easy I might try it myself some day.
- - - that 33's were built the same through the entire production run. Material changed on a moment to moment basis depending on what was available and the mood of the particular worker. Examples: the bottoms of my drawers are all teak and holly floor plywood, turned wrong face up. The stiffening piece under the anchor locker is a piece of the formica laminated counter top 3/4 inch plywood used for the galley counter. Interior fittings seem to be different with no rhyme or reason. On my 1983 33, my side decks are cored with plywood. I KNOW this to be fact because I cut 33 1 1/4 inch holes in each side deck to mount my 11 foot genoa tracks. The hole plugs were all plywood. When I cut a 4 1/2 inch hole in the cabin top for the diesel heater vent stack a small distance from the mast I found balsa core as well as solid filler which was used directly under the mast step. Rot and delamination in the chain plate area where the plates come through the deck are not out of the ordinary on just about any boat. Old bedding material and lots of flex make for water intrusion. If I were making the repair I would cut out a section of deck, get rid of all the wood mush, mix up and fill with some thickened resin. I think polyester in a repair this big might be ok. Mash in the removed piece of deck so the resin squeezes out, and allow to cure. Sand flush and paint. Sounds so easy I might try it myself some day.
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Jim Logan
I'm not sure there is wood to delaminate
I don't think that all 33's had wood or any material between the decks on the sides - I know on my sidedecks, there are spots where there are only the two decks with no wood in between, since you can see strong light shining through the decks - you might want to check this out on your boat. Mine is a 1980 model - I've found balsa in the cabin trunk and top, but the side decks seem to be a different matter.
I don't think that all 33's had wood or any material between the decks on the sides - I know on my sidedecks, there are spots where there are only the two decks with no wood in between, since you can see strong light shining through the decks - you might want to check this out on your boat. Mine is a 1980 model - I've found balsa in the cabin trunk and top, but the side decks seem to be a different matter.
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David Foster
Dowels?
I know of two methods to get rid of rotted wood in a deck core: 1. Sam Lust described the preferred method. It is less effort and time, and goves a better result than 2. 2. Use a 1 inch hole saw to make a hole in the upper fiberglas layer of the deck over the rotted core. Use a bent nail in a drill to route out the rotted wood under and around each hole. Suck out the pulp with a shop vac (once you have done a second hole. Repeat the process spacing the holes to get all the wood until you have got all the rotted wood out. Fill the void with an epoxy and filler combination. Put your preferred finish over the holes. I think this method takes longer, and (because of the inability to inspect under the edges of the holes) you can't be sure you got all the rotted wood. I would not use the dowel idea you describe, because it will leave rotted wood around the dowels to infect more good wood. Good Luck, David Lady Lillie
I know of two methods to get rid of rotted wood in a deck core: 1. Sam Lust described the preferred method. It is less effort and time, and goves a better result than 2. 2. Use a 1 inch hole saw to make a hole in the upper fiberglas layer of the deck over the rotted core. Use a bent nail in a drill to route out the rotted wood under and around each hole. Suck out the pulp with a shop vac (once you have done a second hole. Repeat the process spacing the holes to get all the wood until you have got all the rotted wood out. Fill the void with an epoxy and filler combination. Put your preferred finish over the holes. I think this method takes longer, and (because of the inability to inspect under the edges of the holes) you can't be sure you got all the rotted wood. I would not use the dowel idea you describe, because it will leave rotted wood around the dowels to infect more good wood. Good Luck, David Lady Lillie
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Mike B
My H-33 delamination issues
I have a 1979 with several delamination problems. I am currently replacing the mast step on deck. The old one had plywood sandwiched between glass layers. I am using solid oak, 1/2" thick, with a new layup of glass on top. I tried the bent-nail-in-a-drill method but this only works for small spots. I think a large hole-saw would do just as well. My cabin roof behind the mast has cracks and is delaminated. I don't know what the core material is, but I do expect to remove the back half of the cabin top and make the repair. The cracks are substantial enough to lead me to believe the core must be rotten. On both side decks I have some crackling sounds in a couple of spots. I hope to bore small holes and inject resin into the area. If it turns out to be wet, I'll remove the deck and replace the coring like the cabin top. The mast step was not difficult to do, just time consuming. I expect the other spots to be more of the same. I plan to post a picture article when I am done. Mike
I have a 1979 with several delamination problems. I am currently replacing the mast step on deck. The old one had plywood sandwiched between glass layers. I am using solid oak, 1/2" thick, with a new layup of glass on top. I tried the bent-nail-in-a-drill method but this only works for small spots. I think a large hole-saw would do just as well. My cabin roof behind the mast has cracks and is delaminated. I don't know what the core material is, but I do expect to remove the back half of the cabin top and make the repair. The cracks are substantial enough to lead me to believe the core must be rotten. On both side decks I have some crackling sounds in a couple of spots. I hope to bore small holes and inject resin into the area. If it turns out to be wet, I'll remove the deck and replace the coring like the cabin top. The mast step was not difficult to do, just time consuming. I expect the other spots to be more of the same. I plan to post a picture article when I am done. Mike
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Jim
I would.....
....listen to Sam. Open the can of worms and hope to God it's only worms, not dragons.In all liklihood, only worms. Perhaps I'll try it myself someday. After all, it's a boat, not a Louie Quattorze (or whatever) sideboard. in all seriousness, Remember Archimides' ideas on the matter of floating. Regards , Jim
....listen to Sam. Open the can of worms and hope to God it's only worms, not dragons.In all liklihood, only worms. Perhaps I'll try it myself someday. After all, it's a boat, not a Louie Quattorze (or whatever) sideboard. in all seriousness, Remember Archimides' ideas on the matter of floating. Regards , Jim
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David E
Helpful Info
I want to thank all of you out there that participate in this form. The information is very helpful to me in my search for a boat. Regarding a tool for use in removing rotten core, I plan on grinding a flat wood bit into a T shape to fit the depth of the core and adding a cutting edge to the outside. When I try it out I will let you know if it works well. For now I’m trying to schedule seatrials, then on to the survey. Blisters to port, blisters to starboard, who knows? Wish me luck. David
I want to thank all of you out there that participate in this form. The information is very helpful to me in my search for a boat. Regarding a tool for use in removing rotten core, I plan on grinding a flat wood bit into a T shape to fit the depth of the core and adding a cutting edge to the outside. When I try it out I will let you know if it works well. For now I’m trying to schedule seatrials, then on to the survey. Blisters to port, blisters to starboard, who knows? Wish me luck. David
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