Just completed the rebuild of the Port water tank on my 1981 Hunter 37 cutter. The tanks had not been cleaned since the boat was built in 1981 as they had no cleaning or inspection ports. Upon opening the tanks I found what I had expected, from reading other posts on this site, about four cups what looked like gravel (mineral deposits??) and about 2 inches of brown sludge. After cutting in the three ports in the port tank, I let it dry completely then used a screwwdriver and SS wire brush to clean the corrosion/calcium deposits in the tank. Vaccumed this out and used Jabsco Prep and Prime (Phosporic Acid Solution) to clean the interior and etch the metal for the coating adhesion. Drained and rinsed the cleaning solution after an hour, dried and used West epoxy to fill the larger of the corrosion pitting. Lightly sanded the the epoxy repairs for coating adhesion and applied two coats of Macropoxy 646. This part was a little messy as I had to paint through a 6" opening on each section using a small mirror to see the top and corners, but the results were well worth it. The interior of the tank looks great and the coating is high density with the dried coating an average of 1/8" thickness. Takes about seven days for the coating to completely cure. Also found that if you have calcium/corrosion spots in your alum. water tanks don't clean these until your ready to coat the tank as it only accelerates the metal corrision.
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Charles, take a peek
in your tank in a few months and report back on condition. Sounds like a good solution.
in your tank in a few months and report back on condition. Sounds like a good solution.
Like your approach...
I have an inkling that the tanks in my '83 H-37C are probably about due. This seems a less destructive approach than cutting the tanks out and replacing. What kind of access hatches did you use and are they truly watertight? Jim, S/V CALYPSO
I have an inkling that the tanks in my '83 H-37C are probably about due. This seems a less destructive approach than cutting the tanks out and replacing. What kind of access hatches did you use and are they truly watertight? Jim, S/V CALYPSO
A keeper!
I'll have to print and save this one Charles. Thanks for the picture and the detailed explanation. I agree with Jim, a much better solution than removing and replacing. Do your gauges still work or will you replace? Or is the clear inspection port lid sufficient as a gauge? I guess you could always use a dip stick. Are the port lids pry out or screw in?
I'll have to print and save this one Charles. Thanks for the picture and the detailed explanation. I agree with Jim, a much better solution than removing and replacing. Do your gauges still work or will you replace? Or is the clear inspection port lid sufficient as a gauge? I guess you could always use a dip stick. Are the port lids pry out or screw in?
Beckson Screw in Deck Plate
Used Beckson screw-in deck plates, with the O-ring seal they should be watertight, but being on the top of the tank I am hoping they wont see any head pressure against them any time soon. Ed, I removed the gauges when installing the forward deck plates as they were corroded beyond repair and from what I've heard the replacements are a little pricey. I intend to use the clear deck plate on the aft. end of the tank to visually check levels and for debris.
Used Beckson screw-in deck plates, with the O-ring seal they should be watertight, but being on the top of the tank I am hoping they wont see any head pressure against them any time soon. Ed, I removed the gauges when installing the forward deck plates as they were corroded beyond repair and from what I've heard the replacements are a little pricey. I intend to use the clear deck plate on the aft. end of the tank to visually check levels and for debris.
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